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Re: Radiant floor setpoint
I run all of mine at 100* to start, and adjust from there if necessary. Most end up being just fine with 100* on a design day, but some are lower and some higher. My shop at home runs about 85* at design of -30F outdoor but I only keep it 65 inside
GroundUp
2
Re: Radiant floor setpoint
I had a radiant heat in the Concrete Slab Addition system in my previous home, I also used a condensing boiler. I got plenty of heat using a 110°F water temperature with a 10°∆T so the average water temperature was about 105°F. The remainder of the home was a staple up using aluminum transfer plates. That 110° water was about the highest I wanted to put on those Hardwood Floors.
If you do not have Hardwood floors to worry about, then I would start at 120° and go down from there. If you get the temperature to over run the thermostat setting by more that 3°F then lower the boiler temperature by 5° and see how that works for a few days. You need to let it operate for at least 3 days before you try another temperature change. It can take that long for the Slab to change temperature and see if it is any better.
It may take 24 hours for the 120° boiler water temperature to show up as a room temperature change when you have a large mass like a concrete slab.
If you do not have Hardwood floors to worry about, then I would start at 120° and go down from there. If you get the temperature to over run the thermostat setting by more that 3°F then lower the boiler temperature by 5° and see how that works for a few days. You need to let it operate for at least 3 days before you try another temperature change. It can take that long for the Slab to change temperature and see if it is any better.
It may take 24 hours for the 120° boiler water temperature to show up as a room temperature change when you have a large mass like a concrete slab.
Re: Random lockouts on Wayne burner
Possible bad HX. What is the oil line installation like . Inside tank, outside tank gravity feed or overhead lines? etc etc
Re: Random lockouts on Wayne burner
The MSR is a 3450 retention head burner so it should make it over 10.5% CO2.
Check that over fire draft with blower fan off, then on with burner running. Rule out the heat exchanger.
Is there oil on the head and nozzle after lockout? Could be a weak ignitor.
Check that over fire draft with blower fan off, then on with burner running. Rule out the heat exchanger.
Is there oil on the head and nozzle after lockout? Could be a weak ignitor.
HVACNUT
1
Re: DIY steam return line vent replacement?
No reason not to do it yourself, except that persuading the old vent to unscrew may be a chore. I'd suggest plenty of Croil or PB Blaster or whatever you like and letting it soak in well, then doing it again. Since there are nice flats on the vent, a really big crescent wrench on the vent, with a pipe wrench on the T to hold it steady (may need two people).
Re: Triangle Tube Prestige heat exchanger corrosion
Hi all. Just to follow up, now that it's 10 or so months later: I got the igniter replaced, and (from the invoice) a "3-5 year Triangle Tube Heat Exchanger Flush required by Triangle Tube to avoid major
buildup and possible heat exchanger replacement/removal and expensive repairs
charges. Includes using 1 pint Fernox F3 to flush heat exchanger." The boiler has been running well ever since. I've attached a few photos the HVAC guy took at the time.
buildup and possible heat exchanger replacement/removal and expensive repairs
charges. Includes using 1 pint Fernox F3 to flush heat exchanger." The boiler has been running well ever since. I've attached a few photos the HVAC guy took at the time.
dleihs
1
Re: Radiant floor performance troubleshooting
Honestly if your floor temp is 87 right now, and was 95 last year and its not keeping up this implies you have a very high heat loss in the space. I am sure you are aware that the maximum recommended floor temp for a radiant floor in a residential space is 85 and most will consider that uncomfortable. Since we know we are transferring heat well, and the floor is cookin, what else could change? I would start looking at infiltration, no doubt if your floor required a 95 degree temp to satisfy last year you have some high ceilings and large windows in the space, perhaps some seal has given up and is letting in more cold air?
Air can act as an insulator in the boiler system as well impeding heat transfer, but if you have a good air separator this should probably not be an issue
Air can act as an insulator in the boiler system as well impeding heat transfer, but if you have a good air separator this should probably not be an issue
GGross
2
Re: Two-Pipe Third Floor Radiator Slow to Heat
They are usually much larger. The big mouth is just a steam trap marketed as a main vent.
mattmia2
2
Re: Water heater replacement advice...
Thanks for the responses! Sounds pretty unanimous to go 40gal rather than 30 if only for cost. It really just depends on size. My boiler is in front of the WH with not a lot of space between.@edsut
@JUGHNE yes, it is raised off the floor by what appears to be about 18". Thanks for the pointer.
@EdTheHeaterMan I will look into a flex connector for the water line as well. That will make it easier for the "next" time. :-)
@Larry Weingarten not sure I understand regarding "...add a second magnesium anode...". Do you mean I modify a brand new WH before installing it, or is this a feature that I should make sure I get with whatever I buy?
To all: are there any preferred (or not-recommended) manufacturers?
I have installed probably, every manufacturers water heater that is made.
Probably over a thousand by now.
A company that I have found that is excellent Is Bradford White.
Check out Bradford White water heaters. They do things internally that others do not do.
There water heaters are a great investment through out there entire line.
Others are very similar and often a little less money initially.
Intplm.
1