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Re: NEW BOILER PIPING FOR HYDRONIC HEAT - USE TYPE L OR TYPE M COPPER?
...No one that installs coal stoker boilers recommends using copper for close boiler plumbing.Not coal, but I always get a kick out of your persistence in shoe horning that in whenever you can.
Re: Radiant heating and cooling system in concrete slab 1950's house. Salvageable?
Levittown was built with radiant heat using copper tubing in a concrete slab around that same time. No insulation under the slab and the least costly materials were used. I would say that well over 90% of those copper radiant floor systems are abandoned today. They started to abandon them as early as 1970s and 80s
You have something similar but different. The fact that the person that specified the tubing and other components was an engineer or architect and was planning on using the home himself, makes me think that you have a better than 50% chance that the system may be usable. Better materials and that waterproofing layer can only help. If I were in your shoes, I might give it a go. At least you might get 5 or 10 years of good service... Maybe longer. I would strongly recommend that you install a water meter on the inlet of the boiler feed water. This way you can monitor the system and will notice a leak very quickly. You won't need to see the fuel bill go up substantially to detect the water leak.
Best of luck!
Mr.Ed
You have something similar but different. The fact that the person that specified the tubing and other components was an engineer or architect and was planning on using the home himself, makes me think that you have a better than 50% chance that the system may be usable. Better materials and that waterproofing layer can only help. If I were in your shoes, I might give it a go. At least you might get 5 or 10 years of good service... Maybe longer. I would strongly recommend that you install a water meter on the inlet of the boiler feed water. This way you can monitor the system and will notice a leak very quickly. You won't need to see the fuel bill go up substantially to detect the water leak.
Best of luck!
Mr.Ed
Re: The main is hot, the radiator is cold, and the heating company can't figure out why.
Well, they finally came to put in the new-new boiler. Based on independent measurements by myself and the heating company, our radiators need about 119MBH (not factoring in pickup). They had put in the IN4I rated for 87MBH, they've now finished the install of the IN6I rated for 144MBH (the in-between size, the IN5I, maybe have been fine at 115MBH, but we went with the 6).
It's May not and we're not running the heat much, but I tested it for a bit this morning and it does seem to have done the trick, all the radiators actually get hot in about the same amount of time as they used to with the old-old boiler. Before next season I'll get the pipes insulated, and I'm get more appropriate vents on the mains, but for now we're back to status quo, at least.
Want to thank everyone here for the suggestions and help, and for the patience with my lack of knowledge
It's May not and we're not running the heat much, but I tested it for a bit this morning and it does seem to have done the trick, all the radiators actually get hot in about the same amount of time as they used to with the old-old boiler. Before next season I'll get the pipes insulated, and I'm get more appropriate vents on the mains, but for now we're back to status quo, at least.
Want to thank everyone here for the suggestions and help, and for the patience with my lack of knowledge
bmearns
5
Re: Weil McLain HE-5 Series 3
If you have space, and do a little repiping, I would install a second unit and leave the old one tied into the system as a back up. If piped properly with primary/secondary piping and/or with check valves, the off unit will stay cold while the other unit is running, so you maintain full efficiency of each unit. You could also install a unit with just enough capacity for your typical winter day weather so you max out it's efficiency, and then bring the larger unit online during the few days of extreme weather a year.
Re: Why I don't like SS Flex supplies...
Most stainless steel flex connectors have a tag on them stating to replace every ten years. How often does that happen? Probably never.
Re: Why I don't like SS Flex supplies...
I definitely hit a nerve with this topic. I'll double-down: Why would you want to put your name on something that you have to even think about changing every 10 years or whatever you said?? It makes ZERO sense. You put in a Hard connection, you're worry free for 5 times that time period. Copper speedies don't just let go and blowout like a flex hose. I like to put something in today that hopefully your GRANDCHILDREN won't have to replace. I build for 100 years and hope it makes it that long. Too many guys want the quick, fast, and dirty way out. I get it. You gotta make 💰 Money.
It only takes another 5 minutes or less to do a Solid Speedy...and I don't have to worry about it again..It's the dumbing down and the cheapening of ours skills and trade. I could teach A Chimp to put on a SS flex. Can't we do a little better than that??? as Professionals??? Just sayin.....Mad Dog
It only takes another 5 minutes or less to do a Solid Speedy...and I don't have to worry about it again..It's the dumbing down and the cheapening of ours skills and trade. I could teach A Chimp to put on a SS flex. Can't we do a little better than that??? as Professionals??? Just sayin.....Mad Dog
Re: Gas Piping - teflon tape
I don't know why that would be considering the point of a tapered thread is that it gets tighter as it gets deeper assembled. But you may be right. I really don't know. I don't assemble threaded pipe very much anymore but when I did it was very simple: wick on water pipe covered with pipe dope, and just dope alone on gas (never wick). When teflon tape came along we used it on lots of joints whether gas or water. Most of my guys have no idea what to do with a spool of wick and I think it's a shame. They love that Blue Monster crap and we go through tons of it. I'd have the same spool of wick for a month back then.JohnNY said:I'll repeat this...
It's my understanding npt needs thread sealer due to how the threads are cut and that's why nptf also called dry seal was created.
I suppose the biggest issue I have is that's what I've read but I've also never known you to lie neither can I imagine why you would on this.
So I don't know what to think now.
Alright, I'm officially rambling.
Have a look at this John.
https://www.machiningdoctor.com/charts/nptf/
ChrisJ
2
Re: No Local Help
The sight glass wears down on the ends . Normally from a small leak from lack of compression rings .
I noticed the muddy water , it tells me you have steam leaks. The mud is the solids left behind . Leaks will cost you in burning more fuel ....
I noticed the muddy water , it tells me you have steam leaks. The mud is the solids left behind . Leaks will cost you in burning more fuel ....
Big Ed_4
2