Best Of
Re: Am I being dense?
If you look at the piping there are about 4 different ways to pipe a hot water system
- Series loop. The supply come out of the boiler and goes only to one radiator. It comes out the other end of the rad and goes to the next ans so on until it gets back to the boiler. All the rads are in series. It usually is used in smaller homes like a 5 room ranch
2. Monoflow the supply leaves the boiler and circles the basement in a loop and returns to the boiler (you could have 2 loops) The supply and return to each radiator tees into the same main pipe and uses special tees. This system was popular in the 40s, 50s and early 60s
3. Direct return. The supply main leaves the boiler and runs around the house. A supply pipe for each rad tees off the main. The main stops at the last radiator. Then you have the return main that leaves the return from the boiler it runs around the house and tees off to the return on each rad.
4. Reverse return is similar to direct return except the first rad connected to the supply is the last rad connected to the return
Post a few pics.
Re: New Return Pipe Noise During Renovation
The test neilc requests is easy to do, you just need an appropriate size screwdriver.
Turn the thermostat up, the boiler should come on. Shut the power switch off at the Red arrow (the boiler should go off), this power switch shuts off the 120 VAC to the transformer (Yellow arrow) that makes the 24 VAC system voltage.
Remove the pressuretrol cover (I think you already had it off) remove one wire from the pressuretrol's switch inside by unscrewing a screw, you may only need to loosen the screw and slide the wire out from under the screw's head and not totally remove the screw to disconnect the wire. Bend the disconnected wire slightly so the bare wire can't touch anything when you let go of it. Turn the boiler back on with the power switch, the boiler should not fire if the pressuretrol is wired in correctly.
Turn the boiler back off with the power switch. Reconnect the disconnected wire, put the cover back on the pressuretrol, turn the boiler back on with the power switch, set the thermostat back to normal.
Re: Am I being dense?
or replace green valves with these reversible ported shutoff valves….
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-80613-3-4-Press-Full-Port-Ball-Valve-w-Drain-Reversible-Handle
Red ones doesn’t hurt as @psb75 pointed out but removing may be cleaner.
PC7060
Re: Am I being dense?
Have someone install new shutoff valves below the green handled return drains. Leave the old red ones in as redundant. Purge zones.
Re: Am I being dense?
What’s on the other side of that creepy looking door? Is that where you hide all the trolls?
No you can’t. Water will take the path of least resistance and run in the pump outlet up to the purge valve. A centrifugal pump is unlike a positive displacement pump. There is a path for the water to travel backwards through the pump. Closing those valves above the purge valves will prevent water from going from the feed that enters the system just under the circulator pumps from going the long way around thru the radiators and purging the loops.
The only thing those valves are good for is for swapping out a bad calculator pump. The flo-check on the supply and that valve on the return will keep the water in the radiators when you drain the boiler to replace anything between the flo-check and the return. Boiler gauge, relief valve, circulator pumps, and the like can all be serviced with the water in the radiators staying put. Not a fan of that design. Looks more like a mistake than an intentional design.
Re: New Return Pipe Noise During Renovation
OK with your 4:55 Pm post the pressure was still approaching 10 PSI. Glad to here things are better. Pressuretrols are notoriously dysfunctional, I'd keep an eye on it and see what it does.
Re: New Return Pipe Noise During Renovation
Something like this, there is probably others out there. I can't speak to the quality, I use more commercial / industrial type gauge equipment. You may want to put a valve between the 0-3 PSI gauge and the rest of the system, you can close the valve when not in use and to protect the gauge from excessive pressure.
Re: Need a bit of help/advice...
cheaper to buy propane than to pay 3 years of unpaid ng bills and the service reconnect fees and deposits. try the code enforcement of the city building department. they are too busy to deal with someone's unpermitted fence but will probably be interested in someone trying to blow yup a house with propane.
This house blew up in Ann Arbor about a year ago because of a similar situation:
Re: Wifi replacement for aube telephone controller ct240
A much cheaper alternative to the webrelay is Shelly. They make a Wifi and Bluetooth dual relay that goes for ~$30, and easily integrates with Google and Apple Smart home apps.
I think the Shelly Plus 2pm would work for you situation, but they make a wide variety of similar devices. I have several that I'm happy with.
Re: Taco 007e Installation
The 007e is not going to raise the system pressure, all it can do is create a pressure differential. It sounds like you still have air in the system, every time you purge, you are still introducing air into the system. Incoming water can contain up to 10% air.
What I do now is get the boiler hot and let the system circulate, hotter water lets the air out of solution easier. Turn the water pressure up to help constrict those air bubbles.
To determine if your indirect has a leak, turn off the automatic fill valve for the boiler and monitor the pressure then.
If the pressure keeps rising, then yes, your indirect has a leak.
Dave H_2


