Best Of
Re: Most conservative setting for barometric damper without a draft gauge?
From the field controls installation sheet;
Adjusting the control.
The burner must be running when the adjustment of the control is made.
The use of a draft gauge is required to set the overfire draft.
Set the over fire draft according to the appliance manufacturers instructions.
Set the control to maintain as low a draft as will give good combustion and meet the requirements for heat.
Turn the adjustment weight counter-clockwise too loosen, then slide in slot to the proper position and tighten.
The bracket is marked 2, 4, 6 and 8, which indicates draft settings of .02", .04", etc. (These are drafts adjacent to the control, Not overfire drafts)
Oil Burner Combustion Air And Overfire Draft Setting (inches of W.C.)
After the burner has operated for at least 5 to 10 minutes, take draft readings over the fire. For a domestic burner the over-fire draft should be .02-.03, although there are some makes of burners which require higher drafts. Follow the burner manufacturer installation instructions for proper settings. Ther must always be enough draft so that the burner does not puff back into the room at the moment it starts, and there should be no objectional smoke. CO2 and smoke readings must be taken to determine the proper adjustments.
========================================================================================
If you really want to ride herd on this you can purchase a Dwyer Mark II Manometer and a probe from Dwyer to monitor the draft on your oil boiler.
leonz
Re: Micoe Heat Pump - A Dead Loss
good eye!
yes the parts are common to both. These are just seeds and stems I have lying around the shop that I assemble for different demos or personal use.
The polymer media inside is also the same for dirt and air.
hot_rod
Re: Balancing a large one pipe system
I'll be passing through the area this weekend if I can be of any assistance to you. Mad Dog
Re: Balancing a large one pipe system
Do your main vents first. How long are your mains, and what pipe size?
Re: Balancing a large one pipe system
From what can be seen in the pictures, the near boiler piping is incorrect and no where near enough main venting. That’s where I would start.
EzzyT
Re: Tankless Coil Intermittent Hot Water
He set the boiler at five cycles per hour to eliminate any cooling of the water in the boiler. It was always above…………175°………….give or take.
At 1 cycle per hour…………..now it cools down below………….140°…………and that's insufficient for a shower considering the heat transfer of the tankless coil.
The boiler needs an aquastat that will maintain the boiler at 180° consistently, independent of the heating demand. This is acceptable in the heating season but is highly inefficient for the remaining six months.
I'm not grasping the "then warms up again" statement. Be curious to know if the boiler started at this moment………….and, if so………….did the thermostat call? I tend to doubt it because you'd have consistent hot water for at least 15 minutes.
You could also try a low cost experiment and set the boiler at 3 cycles per hour. This might provide acceptable HW for most showers but you'll notice a drop in the temperature of the shower if you started the shower at the end of a boiler cycle. A lot of this speculation depends on how much water the boiler holds.
All of the above, other than a new aquastat depends on the boiler actually running 3 cycles per hour. If a thermostat is controlling it, it MAY run three cycles per hour………….or it may not run at all if there is no heating demand. If this is the situation, you must install the aquastat. If outdoor temperature climbs to………..say 45F…………the boiler might run once every two hours………….independent of the claimed 3 cycles per hour.
LRCCBJ
Re: Looking to move a circulator and fill valve, system is now pumping toward tank
i'm with @LRCCBJ on that. if its working fine and your not having air problems don't worry about it. This is the the difference between commercial and residential. Smaller circulator pressure differentials wont really come into play where as in a commercial setting it can really be a problem.
But…. if you need an option you can do the Weil-Mclain way. Put the expansion tank and fill on the return side right before it enters the boiler or on a tapping in the boiler. Both put the expansion tank on the suction side of the circulator creating a pumping away system.
pedmec
Re: Looking to move a circulator and fill valve, system is now pumping toward tank
I don't think you system will see much gain from the repipe. In some systems pumping toward the tank can pull a negative pressure in the piping. Air could get into the system from an auto vent located at that negative pressure area.
Another option would be to add a tee where the red purge valve is and move the tank connection to that point. Now you are piping away with a simple piping change.
A B&G drawing that started the Pumping Away movement
hot_rod
Re: Looking to move a circulator and fill valve, system is now pumping toward tank
You are correct in the preference to pump away from the tank rather than toward it. But, before you take out the wrenches and the soldering tools………….consider the fact, in not too distant past, that all the boiler manufacturers would provide packaged units with the circulator on the return. 98% of the time, the systems worked fine. And, if they failed to work fine, raising the pressure on the boiler usually cured the problem.
So, is your current installation ideal? No. Will it affect the operation of the boiler? Likely not.
The location of the fill is typically irrelevant. You use it once and forget it.
LRCCBJ
Re: Is our building's hydronic heating water pressure too high? What's causing this high pitch whine?
Yeah I've been measuring the 473Hz peak and comparing with the pressure (the boiler room is just one flight of stairs away), and it's been consistently louder when the pressure is higher. When the furnace was recently shutdown because a flame rollout issue, the water ran cold for a couple days, and the noise was completely gone. I'm not saying it's not the bearing, but if I can mitigate it by lowering the pressure, than that's a good enough short term solution. Long term I'm still trying to get the HVAC company to admit their fault and replace the part, or maybe we'll finally replace the old inefficient system this year…
Any suggestion how I could mitigate at the source? I already oiled the bearing according to instructions, no difference.
DDoS