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Hello kjohn0402,

" I changed the blocked vent shutoff, thermal cut-off switch, boiler damper, and boiler aquastat relay, but it keeps shutting off. I have to reset it from the thermal cut-off switch to turn it back on. "

Item A; blocked vent shutoff,

Item B; thermal cut-off switch,

Item C; boiler damper,

Item D; boiler aquastat relay

The flame rollout switch is not included in the list, but probably not the issue since it is a one time fuse.

Are item A and B the same in your description ?

" The damper isn't closing " Why not ?

If the Block Vent Switch keeps tripping, I would check for the Damper not functioning correctly, restricted or blocked flue, insufficient draft, how does the combustion air get into the room (or the building).

here s a few possibilities,

there certainly looks like a lot of dust of some sort all over your boiler which would lead me personally to remove and clean the burners being there as much dust on the cover as on the boiler burners .

Remove the fuel pipe from the chimney and be sure the chimney is not blocked if it is clear is there a liner ? is your chimney on the outside of your home then in most cases it needs a chimney liner or you can wait till the chimney needs to be re do your choice but a blocked vent switch implies what the name suggests ,ei block chimney . Unlined chimneys ( even w a clay tile liner)on outside of home can have issues w draft and will usually trip the block vent switch .Even though all hate hearing it ,i always call for a reputable company to do a chimney inspection and advise the home owner to take there advice being i trust the guys i use and there great and don't bs about it. The thing about stainless steel fuel liners is as much as you don't want the expense i can say that it less then 1/3 the price to have repoint and re do damaged and deteriorated chimney plus matching brick good luck and again after that masonry repair the chimney will still be in need of a liner unless in 5 or 10 year you want the same expense or re doing the chimney .Most 1/2 decent installer also know this as one of the four noble truth of boiler replacement .Chimney inspection ,lining chimney w 3 sides on the outside of the home ,theres zero though it has to be lined or certified by your contractor or by a lic chimney company plain and simple like plain yogurt

how about combustion air if your basement is finished and your home is fairly tight your issue may be not enough combustion air . Calling 2 companies that only charge what you stated unless 2 house away i would not even entertain a drive over plus thats cheap in my book . Did any of the suspected experts remove the fuel pipe and inspect the chimney if not there not real heating guys just some service kids and you need a professional . anybody can connect some piping and make it look 1/2 way decent its another story on operation and safety .

Other things to check aside from just replacing parts which get expensive is the aquastat setting and is the circulator still running when the burner is off ? as other have said you should have a co detector in your boiler area it common sense and i usually always include one w a boiler replacement if i dont see any in the home . .

If you had two companies out there and the issue is still occurring then you need to find a real professional w a clue not some body dropping by to pick up 129 dollars .Real pro charge more then that and usually that comes w 20 or 30 year experience not a you tuber figuring it out as they go that never works .

From the looks of it that is a older unit being it still has a standard aquastat and not a electronic aquastat

peace and good luck clammy

There is a switch on the condensate tank not a Square D. The boiler feed pumps are controlled by something on the boiler which is not in the pictures.

our standing radiator has 7 ribs with a length of 15 in and depth of around 8in and height of around 36in

@JH3550 You could PM @Mad Dog_2 or @JohnNY if they can't do it they may know someone that will. You could clean it up yourself if your handy, but it is kind of a dirty thankless job.

@delcrossv you can buy a #2 switch for a 67 without the float.

Low refrigerant charge…a leak.

Compressor cycling on OL or HP or LP

Leaking change over valve

Really any number of things.

Multi split with weird operation is almost always a low refrigerant issue. Check this before doing any other troubleshooting.