Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Best Of
Re: HELP - NO Heat
Johnny, the relief valve, I'm assuming, is the verticle one attached to the wet return right before it gets back to the boiler, correct? If so, no water comes out of that when I open it. I found that strange.
Nick, the boiler was producing heat when it kicked on in October. That's when I found the overfill problem. When the water heated up it started to spit out of the, why I'm guessing is the overflow valve that is about 2/3rds the way up the wet return. Turned the boiler off and haven't turned it back on since. I don't think water is leaking through the burner because they is none coming outbid whatever overflow valve is up there. I could be wrong though. But when I open the full valve water immediately leaks from that overflow valve.
The drain valve is completely stuck. Packing but is off. I used a pipe wrench to try and turn the valve from the valve stem - valve stem is no longer. Tried drilling and using a broken bolt remover to no avail.
Nick, the boiler was producing heat when it kicked on in October. That's when I found the overfill problem. When the water heated up it started to spit out of the, why I'm guessing is the overflow valve that is about 2/3rds the way up the wet return. Turned the boiler off and haven't turned it back on since. I don't think water is leaking through the burner because they is none coming outbid whatever overflow valve is up there. I could be wrong though. But when I open the full valve water immediately leaks from that overflow valve.
The drain valve is completely stuck. Packing but is off. I used a pipe wrench to try and turn the valve from the valve stem - valve stem is no longer. Tried drilling and using a broken bolt remover to no avail.
Crow
0
Re: TRV and Venting
What vent is currently on the radiator and how does it perform overall ?Hoffman 1-A set to a chart from an old " DM Steam Class " , Dan rattled off the 1-A cfm settings as we discussed the chart. I have all of my 1-A's set to that chart except for 2 downstairs that I put D's on this year and will probably switch those back soon. Most upstairs are set to a G5 or a G6. I did purchase the venting pdf but it has not arrived yet.
My upstairs radiators just do not need to perform all that well simply because those rooms are unoccupied most of the time. I would just go with a Hoffman straight adjustable ( 1-b ? ) but the cost is a little bit out of line on those for some reason.
Re: Hartford Loop
Most definitely
Is this a new boiler installation? If so, the installer apparently did not maintain the boiler water line at the same level as the old boiler, nor did he re pipe the Hartford loop and probably the wet returns to accommodate the new water line. If this is an old installation, I bet you have a lot of hammer around that area? The Hartford loop should be 2 to 4 inches below the boiler water line (look at you owner's manual for specific instructions). Having it above the water line will allow steam from the equalizer to push the return water back into the returns and also create a lot of water hammer. It needs to be corrected.
Is this a new boiler installation? If so, the installer apparently did not maintain the boiler water line at the same level as the old boiler, nor did he re pipe the Hartford loop and probably the wet returns to accommodate the new water line. If this is an old installation, I bet you have a lot of hammer around that area? The Hartford loop should be 2 to 4 inches below the boiler water line (look at you owner's manual for specific instructions). Having it above the water line will allow steam from the equalizer to push the return water back into the returns and also create a lot of water hammer. It needs to be corrected.
Fred
0
Re: tapping into existing gas piping
A gas range will typically be 10,000 BTU's for each top burner, 4 would be 40,000 then add the oven which can be around 25,000 BTU's that is a total 75,000 BTU's. You need to get hold of NFPA 54 National Fuel Gas Code to properly size additional gas piping.
Re: Balancing my Heating system . Help .
Close those valves at the top and bottom of the sight glass and then you can take the nuts off at the bottom of the sight glass, lift the sight glass out and clean it. Put it all back together and open both valves again.
Also, Hoffman makes a valve called a 1A's that have a dial on top with six settings that allow you to increase or deccrease the orifice size for air flow. I use those and like them. Sometimes a #40 may be just too small for some radiators and you can adjust the 1A' to a #40 setting. You may want to order a couple of those if the 40's don't work somewhere.
Also, Hoffman makes a valve called a 1A's that have a dial on top with six settings that allow you to increase or deccrease the orifice size for air flow. I use those and like them. Sometimes a #40 may be just too small for some radiators and you can adjust the 1A' to a #40 setting. You may want to order a couple of those if the 40's don't work somewhere.
Fred
0
Re: Replacing Pressuretrol and Pressure Gauge
Bob, Thanks. Isn't the bottom vent too low though? And why dial down the vent? Also I do have some others, gorton 4 and 5 available. Would one of these be better?No.. the lower one is for a steam vent. The upper one is for a vent to bleed air out of the radiator for a hot water system.
I'd start with the 4 then go to a 5 is you need to.
Re: Munchkin 80MLP Advice Needed
I have only 1 Munchkin left that I service now. It is on a baseboard system, and supplies the heat for the hot water holding tank. Very little condensation seems to be the trick for these pioneering boilers. Any that I installed or serviced that were used for floor heat were all gone by year eight. That has a lot to do with our gas situation here in metro Vancouver, a lot of iron particulate in our gas, so it attacks the cheaper stainless used in these boilers as it condenses out.
I still have my druthers about these mod-cons. I service many standard boilers that are way past 30 - 40 years of age, and it appears that they will go another 20 or more. Taking into the life cycle, ease of repair and cost of our gas, I still believe the best investment is with a standard boiler, but most times feel like I am howling into the wind!
I still have my druthers about these mod-cons. I service many standard boilers that are way past 30 - 40 years of age, and it appears that they will go another 20 or more. Taking into the life cycle, ease of repair and cost of our gas, I still believe the best investment is with a standard boiler, but most times feel like I am howling into the wind!
Leo_G
0
Re: Water Level in Gauge Glass
If you have the owner's manual, check it for the placement of that "Lowest permissable Water level" tag also. Where it is placed now is wrong. It should be on the panel, somewhere around mid way up the glass. Not an issue if you know where the water level should be, but a big issue for anyone who isn't familiar with that boiler.
Fred
0
Re: Water Level in Gauge Glass
I know, with the LWCO operating, what is the sense to even have that sticker there. The actual water level has the sticker and also a dimple in the jacket.I'm not sure. I know my Burnham has several demples in the panel where one could drill for the various plates. I assummed some of those panels were interchangable with different boiler models and depending on which model you had, you drill for the plate accordingly. In no case would there be a sticker at or below the bottom of the sight glass. If there is a need for a plate anywhere on the sight glass, it should read " Normal Water Level" and be done with it.
FWIIW, I don't think the factory would want the installer to determine the water level in their boiler. And if I were the installer I would not want the responsibility of doing so. It seems that the physical dimensions of the block and amount of heat applied would set the water line.
Fred
0