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Re: Questions from a newbie on replacing steam boiler
I'm betting you have a dirty heat exchanger.
If the heat exchanger is dirty, the flue gases can't pass through the boiler the way it's supposed to and the flames can start to role out the front.
How does a gas burning appliance become dirty?
It can happen if the boiler is running and there's a lot of dust in the air, via someone sweeping or construction taking place around it.
The burner is drawing air in from around the basement, so when there's dust floating around, it too is burned and can get trapped on the heat exchanger, restricting the air flow it need for good combustion.
Another possibility could be not enough combustion air in the basement.
If there's not enough air for the amount of gas your burning, you could be burning to rich and that too can cause a carbon build up on your heat exchanger.
You can have a heating technician confirm this by taking the flue pipe off and trying to look through the flue passages in the heat exchanger. You could have it cleaned, but unfortunately it's usually a bandaid for what will be an on going problem.
Once a boiler starts getting a carbon build up, it's very hard to get clean enough to have it running like new.
My opinion, start getting prices.
A new boiler has more safeties and better design for efficiency.
When a steam boiler is properly sized and piped by a steam pro, it can be just as efficient, give you as much control, is considered by many to be more comfortable and heat your home for many more years, with much less costly problems that you can have with something else heating your home.
If the heat exchanger is dirty, the flue gases can't pass through the boiler the way it's supposed to and the flames can start to role out the front.
How does a gas burning appliance become dirty?
It can happen if the boiler is running and there's a lot of dust in the air, via someone sweeping or construction taking place around it.
The burner is drawing air in from around the basement, so when there's dust floating around, it too is burned and can get trapped on the heat exchanger, restricting the air flow it need for good combustion.
Another possibility could be not enough combustion air in the basement.
If there's not enough air for the amount of gas your burning, you could be burning to rich and that too can cause a carbon build up on your heat exchanger.
You can have a heating technician confirm this by taking the flue pipe off and trying to look through the flue passages in the heat exchanger. You could have it cleaned, but unfortunately it's usually a bandaid for what will be an on going problem.
Once a boiler starts getting a carbon build up, it's very hard to get clean enough to have it running like new.
My opinion, start getting prices.
A new boiler has more safeties and better design for efficiency.
When a steam boiler is properly sized and piped by a steam pro, it can be just as efficient, give you as much control, is considered by many to be more comfortable and heat your home for many more years, with much less costly problems that you can have with something else heating your home.
Re: what the heck was this plumber thinking
A system I service has the old compression ceiling hanging tank.
It would often get water logged. Someone had put an air vent on the main supply. There were also small auto vents on some units.
After removing these and repacking the sight glass valves, the air head has remained pretty constant over the years.
The sight glass packing was probably the main issue, but in this case shown eventually the system will lose all air thru the auto vent.
Then the compression tank would be ineffective and pretty heavy.
Maybe the new tank is too small for the system and he is trying use both??
It would often get water logged. Someone had put an air vent on the main supply. There were also small auto vents on some units.
After removing these and repacking the sight glass valves, the air head has remained pretty constant over the years.
The sight glass packing was probably the main issue, but in this case shown eventually the system will lose all air thru the auto vent.
Then the compression tank would be ineffective and pretty heavy.
Maybe the new tank is too small for the system and he is trying use both??
JUGHNE
0
Re: Electrode change out how often?
If I'm looking at the piping correctly, (and somebody please tell me if I'm wrong) the primary pump is in the wrong location. Its dead heading against the return.
Also, what do you mean by "the service guy never installed a variable draft"? A draft regulator? I don't see one either.
Also, what do you mean by "the service guy never installed a variable draft"? A draft regulator? I don't see one either.
HVACNUT
0
Re: Any trick to lining up pipes when replacing...? (Aaand - DONE!)
How is it our fault you used the wrong size pipes? 
ChrisJ
1
Re: Condensing Gas Boiler Questions (Forced Air)
I did a heat loss calculation and came out to around 57,000 btu for the entire house based on my region and house. ~1200 sq ft, built in 1958, shoreline Connecticut.Did anyone on the "DIY" forum question that heatloss figure?
A good ballpark heatloss number to use on modern/post war 2X4 construction homes in the USA is between 15-30BTU's/sq-ft, with the many coming in under 20BTU's/sq-ft. There are longtime contractors here who have stated that they have never seen a 30BTU/sq-ft heatloss home during their entire career.
You calculation puts you at 47.5BTU/sq-ft heatloss!
Give the Slant/Fin app a try:
http://www.slantfin.com/professionals/
NY_Rob
1
Re: New Boiler Return Connection
im not a fan of the logimatic, i use a honeywell l7224u
Re: Pipe size
I got the 5/8 from my water bill. Will double check when I get home about actual size entering house. I do know that from my side of the meter it's all 1/2 inch. I live on Long Island NY. The space is in a basement. Unfortunately the basement ceiling is finished. So I would like to take the easier route if possible and go along the wall where my return for boiler condensate runs. The house is set up as the water comes in runs about 75 feet (25 to back wall then 90 degree turn)to hot water tank then runs back 75 feet and then up to fixtures. All plumbing fixtures are located on same back corner of house. 1st floor kitchen and 1/2bath next to each other and then 2nd floor full bath.
Stangob
0
Re: Pipe size
Where did you get the 5/8" number from?
Pretty typical is 3/4" (7/8" OD) service line coming into the house.
Some water meters are called 5/8" (internally) but have 3/4" connections.
Pretty typical is 3/4" (7/8" OD) service line coming into the house.
Some water meters are called 5/8" (internally) but have 3/4" connections.
JUGHNE
0
