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Re: How Do I Connect This Wire?
When the Nest first was introduced (Before google acquired NEST) I found that there were some problems on some devices. The first one was a Taco Zone Valve 570 series. Without going into details this is how I fixed it.
Before Nest Thermostat
After Nest Thermostat showed E72 error
I added this isolation relay with a separate transformer. (Green) See how the contacts on the relay do the job of the old T87F thermostat contacts. It is the simplest fix for all kinds of incompatibility issues with any smart thermostat.
Here is a comment made by a Taco Tech Support guy years later. It seems that they fixed the Nest or upgraded the software over the internet.
Re: Radiant Purge Viega Manifold
When you take an actuator off the manifold that branch is now full open. When you screw an actuator onto a manifold it shuts off that port.
Until the actuator is powered up.
When the pin is up, that valve is open. Depress the pin to close off that valve.
Or leave the actuators on and power them up, to open them, one at a time.
I generally do all the purging before I install actuators.
Until the actuator is powered up.
When the pin is up, that valve is open. Depress the pin to close off that valve.
Or leave the actuators on and power them up, to open them, one at a time.
I generally do all the purging before I install actuators.
hot_rod
1
Re: oil furnace sooting extensively
When i say dripping i meant i saw a drop on nozzle semi dried there and once i removed nozzle i couldn't see thru it.You can't see thru a nozzle. There are some finely machined parts inside that nozzle and they will block the orifice from letting light thru the cindered filter. If however you went to the trouble of disassembling the nozzle to look thru the orifice, then throw those nozzle parts away. You will never get it back together with the proper torque and cleanliness needed for proper flow and pattern.
Here is a look at the inside of the nozzle:
Re: Montgomery Ward coal fired Water Heater
Hi, That's a coal fired side-arm water heater. It would have been hooked up to a tank, and water would flow by convection from the bottom of the tank into the back side of your heater...then out the top and back into a connection high on the side of the tank. I'm thinking you would adjust the burn rate by sliding the knob up on the side of the heater to give it more or less air. Just guessing it was made in the 20s or 30s.
I would not use it as a wood stove as dry firing will likely damage it. You could use a pump controlled by a thermal snap switch to move hot water from it. You'll also want a relief valve and expansion tank in the system. The heater has a cast iron water heating chamber on top, so like any boiler, you need to prevent dry firing and thermal shock. It looks like a fun project 😎
Yours, Larry
I would not use it as a wood stove as dry firing will likely damage it. You could use a pump controlled by a thermal snap switch to move hot water from it. You'll also want a relief valve and expansion tank in the system. The heater has a cast iron water heating chamber on top, so like any boiler, you need to prevent dry firing and thermal shock. It looks like a fun project 😎
Yours, Larry
Re: Modcon vs CI Gas Usage - Baseboard Heat
Some additional thoughts. I'd guess not many CI boilers ever run at the rated efficiencies. Certainly not zoned ones as the Cycle Efficiency is the determining factor. IF, and most are, the boiler is oversized then cycle efficiency goes down even more. We have done examples here where actual efficiency drops into the low 70% on zoned, oversized CI on fin tube systems.
Some suggestions, upgrade the envelop first. Even a weatherstrip upgrade can make a difference, as infiltration can rob a lot of your fuel $$
Next do a room by room heat load calc, followed by a fin tube assessment. How low of a SWT can you actually run will now become clear.
Next look up some 20 year weather data. How often are you at design, or below in your area? Probably 80% of the heating system you are below design. So 80% of the time the CI boiler, properly sized is oversized and cycle efficiency starts to chip away at the operating cost. Even on a single zone system!
The higher the temperature required at the fin tube the more loss through the wall to the outdoors. Fin running at 140 loses less through the wall build up, than a 180F system. A simple delta T formula.
So a mod con, properly sized, installed and set up, addresses all the efficiency robbing concerns.
It may modulate down to the lowest zone load. ODR keeps the SWT matching the heat load fairly accurately. Ramp delay, anti short cycling can be used if it is a micro-zoned system where small loads fall below the lowest turn down. These all come into play even if it never condenses!
Below is BIN data is for upstate NY, but I suspect the trends would be similar for L.I, as far as % of design. I believe 0 or 5 above is design in this upstate area.
If you can get SWT down around 150 or lower, design day, the mod cons will really sing fig 3-6. Mod con efficiency goes up as they run at low turn down, fig 3-31. Widen the operating delta to 30° to lower the return even more. It's the return to the boiler that dictates the condensing operation.
Also a slide from Viessmann training regarding reducing SWT and ODR usage. With a CI boiler you are limited on how aggressively you can set the ODR and protect the boiler from extended cold run time.
That leaves the question of maintenance cost, life expectancy. That will be debated till the end of time.
I started a file of mod con cleaning from IG, with poster permission. I've seen boilers that hadn't been serviced in 8 years looking very clean when opened. And boilers opened after one year 1/4 full of mouse turd deposits.
I feel intake air filter and proper burner set up the first year and a check after a year has a lot to do with the combustion side condition.
So it comes down to number crunching first, or talking with folks that have made the mod con transition on CI fin tube systems in your area, for some case study data
Some suggestions, upgrade the envelop first. Even a weatherstrip upgrade can make a difference, as infiltration can rob a lot of your fuel $$
Next do a room by room heat load calc, followed by a fin tube assessment. How low of a SWT can you actually run will now become clear.
Next look up some 20 year weather data. How often are you at design, or below in your area? Probably 80% of the heating system you are below design. So 80% of the time the CI boiler, properly sized is oversized and cycle efficiency starts to chip away at the operating cost. Even on a single zone system!
The higher the temperature required at the fin tube the more loss through the wall to the outdoors. Fin running at 140 loses less through the wall build up, than a 180F system. A simple delta T formula.
So a mod con, properly sized, installed and set up, addresses all the efficiency robbing concerns.
It may modulate down to the lowest zone load. ODR keeps the SWT matching the heat load fairly accurately. Ramp delay, anti short cycling can be used if it is a micro-zoned system where small loads fall below the lowest turn down. These all come into play even if it never condenses!
Below is BIN data is for upstate NY, but I suspect the trends would be similar for L.I, as far as % of design. I believe 0 or 5 above is design in this upstate area.
If you can get SWT down around 150 or lower, design day, the mod cons will really sing fig 3-6. Mod con efficiency goes up as they run at low turn down, fig 3-31. Widen the operating delta to 30° to lower the return even more. It's the return to the boiler that dictates the condensing operation.
Also a slide from Viessmann training regarding reducing SWT and ODR usage. With a CI boiler you are limited on how aggressively you can set the ODR and protect the boiler from extended cold run time.
That leaves the question of maintenance cost, life expectancy. That will be debated till the end of time.
I started a file of mod con cleaning from IG, with poster permission. I've seen boilers that hadn't been serviced in 8 years looking very clean when opened. And boilers opened after one year 1/4 full of mouse turd deposits.
I feel intake air filter and proper burner set up the first year and a check after a year has a lot to do with the combustion side condition.
So it comes down to number crunching first, or talking with folks that have made the mod con transition on CI fin tube systems in your area, for some case study data
hot_rod
5
Re: Purging air with no zone valve
System off, put hose on where you indicated, put hose in a bucket in a sink. Close ball valve.
At the same time, open hose bib, and open fill valve, running water thru the system to maintain at least 12 psi while monitoring the bucket. It's a bit of a juggling act, but you don't want the pressure to drop below 12 psi, and you don't want it near 30 psi.
When all bubbles have stopped in the bucket, at the same time, close hose bib and close fill valve. It's easier and more accurate to just kink the hose to control flow. Then you can let a little water out until you're back to 12psi or whatever you need your cold fill pressure to be.
Don't forget to open up your ball valve before turning the system back on.
Based on how it's piped, recurring air issues may be a theme
Re: H.B. Smith Boiler circa 1954
I probably have some info on those I will look tomorrow. A pic will help. Made by HB Smith in Westfield, MA.
They made many different models with a few different ratings but are all basically the same. The manual wont help much I am sure the 1954 burner you have has been replaced??
That same boiler was made for at least 40 years
They made many different models with a few different ratings but are all basically the same. The manual wont help much I am sure the 1954 burner you have has been replaced??
That same boiler was made for at least 40 years
Re: Radiant Purge Viega Manifold
Unless you have a purge cart with 1/2 hp pump or larger, you will need to purge one loop at a time, takes 5 minutes or so to get all the air out of long loops
Turn the blue valve off, hook a hose to the purge cock at the other end and open one zone at a time.
Either power up the actuator on the loop, or remove the actuator to open that loop. Purge, close loop, repeat on each loop of the manifold.
The cap on the purge cap has a square wrench to open the purge cock.
Stick the purge hose into the HD bucket to see when the air bubbles stop coming out.
Turn the blue valve off, hook a hose to the purge cock at the other end and open one zone at a time.
Either power up the actuator on the loop, or remove the actuator to open that loop. Purge, close loop, repeat on each loop of the manifold.
The cap on the purge cap has a square wrench to open the purge cock.
Stick the purge hose into the HD bucket to see when the air bubbles stop coming out.
hot_rod
1
Re: Steam Pipe vs. PVC Pipe
It's in a nasty low crawl space.SteamingatMohawk said:@Chris Get out your handy dandy infrared laser thermometer and measure the temperature at the connection of the two pipes and let us know. Send us a pic, too.
Id gladly normally help out but for this I'm sorry. I don't go in there unless I have no choice.
That crawl space is Ravenholm.
ChrisJ
3
Re: DIY Steam Boiler Install
Paul, does your BFP need annual inspection?
Is it a RP type with test ports or the simple one we see here all the time. Has an in and out and relief pipe ports.
Is it a RP type with test ports or the simple one we see here all the time. Has an in and out and relief pipe ports.
JUGHNE
1