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Re: Lack of combustion air?
You gotta get your analyzer up inside the draft hood, above the boiler block. Any combustion measurements taken above the draft hood are no good, except for draft on the stack. Your measurements are highly diluted by all the draft in the stack and chimney. I use a piece of 1/4" tubing attached to my probe with a small piece of rubber tubing from a manometer hose or pressure switch.Rizz861 said:@SuperTech I’m working on a gas boiler and it was measured about 12” from flue outlet. This is a rear outlet draft hood so I don’t know where else I would measure my draft and combustion readings other than where I did.
Re: Gas gun in oil burner and Chimney Liner
All chimneys must be suitable for the class of service. If you search this site, you will find me repeating this several dozen times. The code requires a liner. The liner must be properly sized and intact. Terra cotta liners are never installed properly, never hold up, run cold and sweat, and the mortar is incorrect so it erodes even if properly placed, which is rare.
The industry std. is NFPA 211. In Ch 15, you will find levels of inspection. You need a Level II internal inspection by a qualified agency. That will 100% reveal you need a liner if they're doing their jobs.
Many great points above by the guys on sizing, efficiency, condensation, etc. The liner not only contains corrosion and erosion, it sizes the flue to the appliance and, being low mass, heats up quickly to minimize backdrafting at startup. Your chimney sweep should have recommended a level II- call him.
If you check into your state and utilities, you may find incentives to do the CAT IV condensing unit now rather than wait. That money for the liner would go a long way to defraying that cost plus you begin saving on energy costs.
The industry std. is NFPA 211. In Ch 15, you will find levels of inspection. You need a Level II internal inspection by a qualified agency. That will 100% reveal you need a liner if they're doing their jobs.
Many great points above by the guys on sizing, efficiency, condensation, etc. The liner not only contains corrosion and erosion, it sizes the flue to the appliance and, being low mass, heats up quickly to minimize backdrafting at startup. Your chimney sweep should have recommended a level II- call him.
If you check into your state and utilities, you may find incentives to do the CAT IV condensing unit now rather than wait. That money for the liner would go a long way to defraying that cost plus you begin saving on energy costs.
Re: Situational Water Hammer
That means at 9oz they have to be a little over a foot below the water line. where is the water line as some of the water moves out in to the system as steam and condensate where it reaches equilibrium?
You could try as an experiment raising the cold water level to close to the top of the sight glass and see if that extra height gets rid of your late cycle issue. if it does you know you either need to get those water seals lower, make a false water line at the boiler, or add thermostatic traps.
You could try as an experiment raising the cold water level to close to the top of the sight glass and see if that extra height gets rid of your late cycle issue. if it does you know you either need to get those water seals lower, make a false water line at the boiler, or add thermostatic traps.
mattmia2
1
Re: IBC Boiler Error Code 5
Did you ever find a solution? We are having the exact same problem with our IBC boiler. It is 5 years old, and this is the first time we've had an issue. Technicians tell use the same thing - this is an amazing boiler. However, a quick google search has told me that error code 5 is not a "rare" problem anymore...there seem to be others complaining about the same thing on various forums. We have already had one technician out to look at it, but they were unable to fix the problem. Before we start spending money on additional diagnostics, it would be very helpful to know if you were able to find a solution. Thank you!I would advise a new post on here to avoid confusion, often a poster will bring an issue to the forum and once resolved will never come back so you may not get an answer. In addition to that the error code in question seems to be a general combustion/maintenance error code so what fixes it for one person will likely not fix for another person. It always worries me when a tech arrives for a combustion related error and can't diagnose it, its not every time but generally seems like that tech may just be looking to change parts. Often with combustion related errors its not a faulty part at work, it is something else. Now whatever is causing poor combustion may also take out the flame sensor or igniter but generally those foul up as a symptom of a problem not a cause. What @Teemok posted is what you need. The tech needs to take gas pressure readings while the unit is off, while it fires, and measure the total drop during a cycle. They need to clean and inspect the burner chamber/ heat exchanger, and make sure the condensate drains freely, they need to do a combustion analysis with a digital analyzer to make sure the unit is set up correctly.
GGross
1
Re: Adding Filter Above Oil Tank - Which Fittings and Filter and Valves?
You would need to support the filter.
You should change the ball valve to a firomatic valve as required by code. The firomatic can have a flare fitting or you could get regular threads and get a 3/8" brass by 3/8" male flare 90. But I would just get a flared firomatic, make up a short piece of copper, flared on both ends, mount the filter to the wall with the bracket, and use flare fittings on both sides of the filter. Then I'd either have a 90 on the outlet of the filter, or start my oil line and bend a nice 90, go down and attach to the wall, and put an OSV at up to 3' above the burner, to protect the rest of the oil line from a gravity leak.
Then if you're good at flares and know how to power vacuum bleed, a firomatic on the burner.
-If you're not-
Firomatic into a Tiger Poop, put the proper bypass plug into the pump.
I personally don't like 2 filters in 2 locations. If using two, I'd put them together, General then Spin on, at the tank.
Something like this for the tank
And a double filter set up. I like the flare unions so I can take the filters and OSV out of the equation if I had to blow back a line
You should change the ball valve to a firomatic valve as required by code. The firomatic can have a flare fitting or you could get regular threads and get a 3/8" brass by 3/8" male flare 90. But I would just get a flared firomatic, make up a short piece of copper, flared on both ends, mount the filter to the wall with the bracket, and use flare fittings on both sides of the filter. Then I'd either have a 90 on the outlet of the filter, or start my oil line and bend a nice 90, go down and attach to the wall, and put an OSV at up to 3' above the burner, to protect the rest of the oil line from a gravity leak.
Then if you're good at flares and know how to power vacuum bleed, a firomatic on the burner.
-If you're not-
Firomatic into a Tiger Poop, put the proper bypass plug into the pump.
I personally don't like 2 filters in 2 locations. If using two, I'd put them together, General then Spin on, at the tank.
Something like this for the tank
And a double filter set up. I like the flare unions so I can take the filters and OSV out of the equation if I had to blow back a line
Install of the Year!
Out house shopping this week and spotted this, beautiful isn’t she? 1987 install… 
Re: Old Radiators
Outstanding, Dan. A. A. Griffin was the Newark New Jersey foundry that cast these beauties.
Re: Old Radiators
kcopp The back left side has a louvered door open to the unfinished part of the basement.
That said, combustion air is not an issue in this house. It has the original doors and windows. You can see daylight around the gaps in the basement door. 
Re: Old Radiators
My crew replaced the boiler today. It was a tight squeeze in the mechanical closet. JJ had to make a panel for service access. 
Re: Old Radiators
We bought a corner one from upstate PA a couple years ago. It's in my daughters bedroom. We picked it up for $250.00 which was a steal in my opinion. My wife would love to find more to replace all of them in the house.
My wife does not like radiators much, so for her to comment like that is meaningful.
So far the secondary market has been disappointing, everyone wants a mint for them, but not sure if they ever actually sell them for that mint. I'm hoping they don't end up scrapped.
Those radiators are definitely my favorite.
My wife does not like radiators much, so for her to comment like that is meaningful.
So far the secondary market has been disappointing, everyone wants a mint for them, but not sure if they ever actually sell them for that mint. I'm hoping they don't end up scrapped.
Those radiators are definitely my favorite.
KC_Jones
1