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Re: Pinhole in restored cast iron American Radiator Co. Rococco
many years ago, I carried concentrated iodine and lead wool in my service truck that I could use to seal pin holes in cast iron boiler sections and radiators. I do not know if you can still buy the very concentrated iodine any more but if you could I would try that first. You would need to take the rad out of service, pour the iodine into the pin hole and fill the hole with the lead wool by tapping with a ballpeen hammer The iodine caused the cast iron the rust quickly and the lead wool helped to fill the hole. If this does not work you can always do the other fixes.
Re: Easy way to break down boiler.
I ve removed many ideals ,burmhams and u name it old steam coal to oil to gas steam boilers and as much as guys complain I never though I need more then what I’ve always carried in just a 5 lb lump hammer and decent chisel cut the rods and if your skill at slamming a chisel is excellent then blast between the section w ur lump and chisel and done . Now this may not be for those who cannot swing a hammer and lack hammer to chisel coordination and might blast your hand but personally I don’t think anything is as easy and I won’t spend a cent or do anything different plus this is the same way the boiler demo guys have done it for as long as I can remember . When I was younger I had a 7.5 lump hammer and it would only be a few shots and usually nothing could stay together ,lost that bad boy so now it’s a 5 lb but most of those old bears of a boilers are already done and as I get older I ll pay the demo guys a couple of bucks and there done in a blink of a eye why destroy your back especially when your at a age where you got 40 years of time in already breaking down and carrying out sections and new boilers down ,my days of that are winding down on that end ,plus every one wants cheap these days which w me it ain’t gonna happen been there done that and didn’t get a bumper sticker or tee shirt for it .
Peace and good luck clammy
Ps do yourself a real favor and find a good boiler demo guy and pay them to remove and set your boilers in place cause you’re not doing anything including the boiler if you strain and hurt your back you ll be sitting on the side lines on the bench if your lucky . In the words of one of the all time worlds best mech don’t be a hero
Peace and good luck clammy
Ps do yourself a real favor and find a good boiler demo guy and pay them to remove and set your boilers in place cause you’re not doing anything including the boiler if you strain and hurt your back you ll be sitting on the side lines on the bench if your lucky . In the words of one of the all time worlds best mech don’t be a hero
clammy
4
Super Sized Solar Thermal
I came into a pile of used 2X4 rectangular aluminum tube. So I need to come up with projects:)
I built a picnic table first.
Next, a solar collector the width of my shop roof, 28 feet.
It will have 4 separate absorber plates reverse returned. All piping inside the frame, two end connections.
4 pieces of tempered glass.
I may need to do a "solar raising" one weekend to get 'er up on the roof.
I built a picnic table first.
Next, a solar collector the width of my shop roof, 28 feet.
It will have 4 separate absorber plates reverse returned. All piping inside the frame, two end connections.
4 pieces of tempered glass.
I may need to do a "solar raising" one weekend to get 'er up on the roof.
hot_rod
4
Re: Easy way to break down boiler.
That's a good idea and low dollars for what it does.
I usually use threaded rod with nuts on the inside to force the sections apart.....that usually works pretty good.
If you can break up the sections with the ram that's a home run!!
I'm too old for much sledge hammer pounding.
I usually make a few cuts in the cast iron with a cutting disk on an angle grinder...then hit it with the sledge
I usually use threaded rod with nuts on the inside to force the sections apart.....that usually works pretty good.
If you can break up the sections with the ram that's a home run!!
I'm too old for much sledge hammer pounding.
I usually make a few cuts in the cast iron with a cutting disk on an angle grinder...then hit it with the sledge
Easy way to break down boiler.
Recently, I had to break down an "Ideal" 1928 American Radiator Co. steam boiler for replacement. After thinking about how to tackle the job, I came up with a technique that ended up being fast, (relatively) quiet, and something I've not seen anywhere else. I used a 4 ton portable hydraulic ram kit.
Often are referred to as "Porta Power" packs. Although there are many other manufacturers, I got mine from Northern Tool for ~$80. The most useful combination of attachments for me was the 'fork' on one end of the ram and 'spiky square' on the other. The 'threaded shelf' included in the kit let me put the ram between and inside the sections with minimal clearance. The 'spreader wedge' also was useful, but is unable to apply as much force as the ram.
First, I used the ram to separate each individual section - it split sections apart easily without a hammer and chisel. With the section on the ground, I used the ram to break it apart further. This requires a bit more creativity to find angles that can put opposite pressure on the section in a linear manner. I found that breaking down even large pieces was quiet using the ram. When it finally does break, it makes a 'crack' but doesn't shatter in an extreme or violent way.
Although I used a sledge in some cases, the ram made sure I didn't have to swing it as often. All in all, it let me from start-to-scrapyard in less than 4 manhours. If I had to do it again, I would have chosen the 10 Ton ram kit. There were a couple times when it seemed like I was putting too much force on the handpump - but was able to manage.
Often are referred to as "Porta Power" packs. Although there are many other manufacturers, I got mine from Northern Tool for ~$80. The most useful combination of attachments for me was the 'fork' on one end of the ram and 'spiky square' on the other. The 'threaded shelf' included in the kit let me put the ram between and inside the sections with minimal clearance. The 'spreader wedge' also was useful, but is unable to apply as much force as the ram.
First, I used the ram to separate each individual section - it split sections apart easily without a hammer and chisel. With the section on the ground, I used the ram to break it apart further. This requires a bit more creativity to find angles that can put opposite pressure on the section in a linear manner. I found that breaking down even large pieces was quiet using the ram. When it finally does break, it makes a 'crack' but doesn't shatter in an extreme or violent way.
Although I used a sledge in some cases, the ram made sure I didn't have to swing it as often. All in all, it let me from start-to-scrapyard in less than 4 manhours. If I had to do it again, I would have chosen the 10 Ton ram kit. There were a couple times when it seemed like I was putting too much force on the handpump - but was able to manage.
Re: Pinhole in restored cast iron American Radiator Co. Rococco
Sea Cliff is Long Island Gold Coast Paradise. I've restored many ancient heating systems up there. Sea Cliif is where I installed THE BOILER THAT NO ONE WOULD TOUCH. It was a Large, two pipe gas Vapor system in an Old WW I Officers Barracks that had been moved through the Long Island Sound on a barge.. The boiler was in a ten foot deep vault in the middle if the Gorgeous home. I serviced it 2 yrs ago..humming along. Mark Starr was the owner at the time. He also happens to be one of my testimonials. Very proud of that difficult job.. Drilling and tapping will stop a hot water leak under 20 p.s.i. pressure easily. Low Pressure steam, you'll get away with Propoxy or JB Weld. You can't worry about the integrity of the rest if the radiator. It is what it is.. .I have repaired many like this and didn't have any other holes popping up. A sand hole can happen in Casting. It doesn't mean there's multiple ones. Mad Dog.
Re: Pinhole in restored cast iron American Radiator Co. Rococco
Thanks! Sorry I didn’t include the type in my original post. It’s hot water. We’re in Sea Cliff.
HenryB
1
Re: Need some advice on oils level an old semi hermetic trane compressor
and that’s while running.
pecmsg
1
Re: How does a combi boiler handle substantially higher or substantially lower DHW input water
I doubt you would want 140F at the faucets?
A shower typically 95- 105. So the output should be based on 120. you can set the tankless to 120F.
The hotter you run a water heater the more mineral scaling you will get. then output really drops off
A shower typically 95- 105. So the output should be based on 120. you can set the tankless to 120F.
The hotter you run a water heater the more mineral scaling you will get. then output really drops off
hot_rod
1
Re: T C Joy radiators
I know this forum is old. But I couldn’t help myself. I saved these three beauties,today.
Im stoked !
Im stoked !
Tangent
4