Best Of
Re: Does a 1-1/4" female to 1" male reducer for cast iron radiator exist
I don't know. Them or Ward. I usually don't look at the brand unless it comes in the manufacturers box. Or I'm suspect of the threads coming from some off brand thread.
Intplm.
Re: Faucet brands
they use the same seats and springs since masco figured out how to manufacture them in like the 50's although they used to come with 2 sets of springs, i think the very old ones used longer springs
mattmia2
Re: Need help finding boiler replacement
Whoever you hire, make sure they follow the piping instructions in the installation manual EXACTLY. Put that in the contract.
Re: Air to Water Heat Pumps
@John Ruhnke : "We need field data and not advanced math or lab experiments like AFUE that are later proven not to work and nobody does anything about that.. The manufacturer's built equipment to perform better in a lab experiment not real world homes or buildings."
I want to comment on that. We need both.
I think we've all been around someone trying to make a complicated piece of equipment work without knowing how it works. We've all probably been that person — just changing things at random and seeing what happens. Having even a little bit of theory of operation makes that process a lot more efficient and effective. If real-world experience contradicts the theory, that means the theory has to change, that doesn't mean that theories aren't valuable.
Re: Faucet brands
But more $$ may not get you any better valve mechanism. Maybe more brass or a designer look. It's the pieces in the water flow that take the beating. Even the high dollar faucets with ceramic cartridges fail. Buy spare cartridges when you buy a high end faucet. In my experience the cartridges become un-obtainable in a few years.
If the "feel" of the faucet is important, solid brass is still available from Chicago, Zurn, T&S and other commercial names.
On our current bath remodel I went with the Moen ARRIS line and was surprised how heavy the lav and tub fillers are, still some brass in this line and mid price range
hot_rod
Single pipe steam. Inlet side hot. Vent side cold. Should radiator fins all heat up at same time?
Single pipe steam.
Turned the thermostat heat up to 80*F.
Ran the boiler for 20 mins. then checked each radiator.
In general, on most radiators, the inlet side was hot, and the vent side was still cold.
How long should it take for the heat to reach the last fin next to the vent?
After 20 mins, I then turned off the heat. Did I need to wait longer?
BR #1: Inlet side hot. Vent side cold. Vent quiet.
BR #2: Inlet side hissing/sputtering. Inlet side hot. Vent side hot. Vent quiet.
BR #3: Inlet side warm. Vent side very cold. Vent hissing.
LR: Inlet side hot. Vent side very cold. Vent quiet.
DR: Inlet side hot. Vent side barely warm. Vent hissing.
Kitchen: Radiator encased by kitchen nook bench. I feel heat coming out.
I also checked the main vent in the basement.
Main pipe was hot before and after the main vent riser, which was also hot.
So, I think main vent is working?
Video:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fUElS_m0TpL7A70b6Dag-QdvXb0bFSU0/view
Re: Why would first room off the main line be colder than all other rooms?
If it heats up more or less in the same way as the other rooms when the boiler is running — it's not the boiler or the radiators.
You may have a huge air leak in that room, or miserable insulation, or something of that sort.
Re: EDR Calculation Help - In Need of a New Boiler
The number on the boiler has a 30% pickup factor subtracted from for the rest of the system losses it so the output is actually 30% more than what the ratings plate says. The load from the piping is likely far less than 30% so a somewhat smaller ratings plate number will likely work fine.
mattmia2
Re: Circulation issue- lp boiler
Maybe I'm ,missing something, but I don't see any way to purge the zones individually without running water through the separator — and the boiler. Which won't help at all.