Best Of

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At the condo we have slide out wall mounted ACs in a sleeve. 1 Upstairs 8000 btu and 1 downstairs 12000 btu.

All the appliances in this place were originally GE. In fact, I replaced the original GE dishwasher last year 1990 model, still worked fine but the plastic soap dispenser broke and even if the part was available, I wouldn't have bothered with it. The AC wall sleeves I think are GE as well.

During Covid the upstairs AC quit. I have no idea how old it was, but it wasn't original. I searched online and not much available during Covid, but I found a GE and ordered it and put it in. It worked for about 4 years great until the compressor quit. Some kind of foreign rotary compressor R-410. Put a line tap valve on it and the compressor ran but wouldn't pump. No warranty left. Tossed it and bought another one and installed it last year. Started it today and it runs ok……so far.

Now to the downstairs. This one had an Emerson quiet Cool. At least 20 years ago it quit. Took it out and it had no charge. R-22. Leaked tested with an electronic and couldn't find the leak but it had one. Cut the tubing and pulled out the evaporator coil. Found the tubing on the bottom chafed. Brazed it up put the coil back and recharged and it ran the last 20 years.

Last year it still worked but the fan was getting noisy. Time to replace the unit as it was at least 30 years old.

Bought a Friedrich 12000 btu (R-32) and installed it last year. Worked fine all year. Today I fired it up fan runs no cooling at all. No TD on evap with my Fluke 52 and no condenser heat.. At my age I ain't pulling it out of the sleeve myself the bottom of the AC is about 6' off the floor.

Finally, I put it on "fan only" with the fan on high speed. I went downstairs and pulled the CB panel cover and put an amprobe on the dedicated circuit and the fan draws 1 1/2 amps.

Went up and put it on cooling. The amps went up to 6 amps so now I know the fan and compressor are on. Still no cooling. Compressor amps is low so no gas most likely

I bought this online some place. Called Friedrich tech support and luckily there was only one call in front of me. Talked with a really nice guy. Told him how I checked it and he agreed it was toast. They don't repair anything under 1 ton.

He gave me the name of a local appliance dealer whom I know (we bought a refrigerator and dishwasher from them). I have to have them come and do a "diagnostic report" $139 which he sends to Friedrich to confirm the diag and they will ship me a new one😊😊😊😊

After that, I was out in my 2007 F-150 and the AC isn't doing much, cools a little. I had a bone yard engine dropped in last Feb and ran the AC after that to make sure it was ok and it was fine.

I leaked tested it quickly with my electronic and found nothing……..until I pulled the plastic Schrader caps and found both of them leaking a little.

Maybe when they recharged it after the engine change the old Schrader valves didn't like being disturbed

🤔🤔🤔🤔 It's been quite a day

Oh, the other spare bedroom upstairs has a 6000 btu Frigidaire window AC that is 39 years old and was my mothers and still rrruns fine.

All China Junk!!

I thought this link may be of interest here. It has information about how Energy Kinetics Smart Pool Heater uses the excess capacity of boilers in the summer to heat pools. The plate heat exchanger is non-stick and corrosion resistant Sealix® coated (silicon dioxide), making it extremely robust in pool water applications. The flyer has a basic piping diagram and references how quickly various pool sizes will heat up with boilers ranging from 100,000 BTU/hr to 300,000 BTU/hr (with minimal heat loss). We'd recommend a bypass and properly setting the hydronic flow to prevent the return from condensing while pool heating.

The heat exchanger should be installed outdoors, so if the pool piping every breaks/leaks, you do not end up with an indoor pool…

Best,

Roger

I run into a lot more problems related to lack of maintenance and neglect than I do with actual part failures. And at least 90% of the time time I find a failed part it could have been diagnosed and replaced if proper maintenance and troubleshooting was performed.

Things like motors, pumps, couplings, igniters, cad cells usually don't go from working perfectly to not working at all without giving some signs of failing first. A good tech knows how to evaluate the condition of all of the parts of a burner. We don't swap parts out based on "this part is the most likely to fail".

Given the application, would perhaps a possibly too high delta T cause an inordinate amount of moisture on the combustion side of the vessel ? This causing the traditional issue of the by-products of combustionn ie ; sulphur, soot (unburned fuel), and ash adhering to that moisture ? In a extreme condition the weight of such impurities might have ill-effected the positioning of said burner tubes ? As with the preferred modern piping arrangements on the new smaller heat exchangers, maybe a primary, secondary loop piping set-up would alleviate the condition. And excuse this old timer but, isn't that one Grundfos circ pump installed in an incorrect position ? I'll believe so.