How to remove old fittings
Previously I tried old black iron fittings but was not able to crack them open.
I thought this s.s. fitting should be easier to remove, but it's also very tight. I saw in other threads that ppl talking about the heating method. But heating it using a torch for a minute didn't help. I'm using an Irwin groove joint pliers and Ridgid offset pipe wrench on the hex.
Any trick to get it open?
Comments
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Two 24” pipe wrenches. Those channel locks aren’t gonna do it.
Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
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pipe wrench on the pipe and a big crescent wrench on the fitting, that is probably plated brass rather than ss. or 2 pipe wrenches.
if that is gas piping cap it before yo leave, don't want any accidents.
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Is this a two man's job?
One alum 24" wrench is still too heavy.
Does a pipe wrench grip well on the round pipe?
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the point of a pipe wrench is that the jaws dig in to and grip the pipe. adjust it tight enough that the back of the jaw starts to tough as it clamps down as you turn it, that will help support the pipe and it make it less likely to crush the pipe if you have to apply a lot of force
you hold the pipe with one wrench and you turn the fitting with the other. if you arrange the wrenches right you can squeeze them toward each other instead of trying to pull each with a different arm.
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I wouldn’t tell my boss a 1” fitting is a two man job.
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There is something underneath that silver fitting (gas flare fitting, seems to be 3/4 in). You should probably get rid of that before you try to unscrew the fitting. Might get in the way
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If I can do it (at 84), you can. Use a 24 inch pipe wrench on the pipe — set it as @mattmia2 said, so that the slide of the moving jaw is touching the pipe as well as the jaws) and set it to pull towards you, so that the jaws tighten as you pull (if you can't get the pipe wrench in back of the pipe, then swing it over to the other side and push on it). Then a big crescent wrench on the hex. Do NOT use a pipe wrench on a hex fitting — for one thing, it doesn't fit on a hex (meant for round stock) and for another it tears up the fitting. And I do mean a big crescent wrench.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
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Holy Cow, @Jamie Hall is 84? Ed and I are going to start calling you the "Kid".
I would apply some heat with a torch. It will soften the old thread sealant.
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The nail is not in the way. Perspective effect.
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Since the ridges on the lower jaw is skewed in one direction, the wrench oriented in the photo below should be kind of pushed towards the left to help the ridges on the lower jaw bite into the pipe surface. This is what you and @mattmia2 mean, right?
Could you explain the meaning of: the slide of the moving jaw is touching the pipe as well as the jaws?
I have set one wrench up in place. I don't see how I can continue setting up the second wrench while keeping the first wrench that way, without a helper?
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The gas valve is already turned off.
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Hi, I'm thinking you need to turn the pipe wrench around, so it prevents the pipe from rotating the other way. After that a large (18" would be nice) crescent or monkey wrench on the gas fitting will do it. I like to place the wrenches so my hands are about the same distance from the pipe, and the wrenches are roughly one above the other. Guard your hands/knuckles and give it a balanced push-pull. If nothing moves, I've used the trick of putting a lever between the wrenches. This gives much more force to break things loose.
Yours, Larry
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Yup. That would be correct for tightening. For loosening flip the wrench over. The jaws should be lightly farther open, so the pipe slides into the opening farther so that it just touches the straight sliding part of the jaw where it comes out of the body of the wrench — but no further closed.
And as @Larry Weingarten said, guard your knuckles. Some fittings will come loose abruptly (or the wrench can slip), though most aren't that cooerative.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Never use a torch near an open gas line. Gas cocks often don't hold 100% . Mad Dog
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Could be they used Leak Loc or one of the hardening pipe compounds. I can't imagine you need more than an 18" pipe wrench.
I think those gas fittings are plated steel.
Too much wrench/ force and you egg shape the fitting and tube. Then you will be going back to the next fitting upline :)
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
Oh I see your point. So the pipe should touch the vertical of the moving jaw. That's already the furthest position the pipe can go in, right? "But no further closed"? I think the point is the pipe needs contact the vertical slide, the moving jaw and the stationary jaw at the same time.
But there is not enough clearance for the wrench to enter from the left side.
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@Larry Weingarten My mistake. There seems to be only one way to perform the juicer technique.
What is a lever between wrenches? Could you post a photo of what this assembly looks like?
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also the possibility that just the right (or wrong depending on how you look at it) amount of air has diffused in to the open pipe to bring the gas concentration below the upper explosive limit and above the lower explosive limit.
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Hi @azward , Here are two quick mock-ups. The pry bar is my preferred method, but the wood can work, and is a bit less likely to slip.
Yours, Larry
ps. I know, I know. The shop is a mess 🤪
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looks like my bench where the vise keeps the only actual working area clear
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Your language is kind of esoteric
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I didn't notice the bench if you didn't say it
So the pipe wrench is supposed to bite on the pipe and stay that way. Why my pipe wrench slips off if I don't hold it?
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Maybe this video may help, I'm sure there are others that may be more comprehensive.
Looking at your situation and at @Larry Weingarten example the wrenches they would be reversed, since the fitting you want to loosen is the lower wrench, if I understand what you want to do correctly.
The way I would do it is;
The upper 'back up' or holding pipe wrench would go between the pipe and the wall, use the wall to help you, with the wrench handle to the left, jaw opening towards you.
The lower wrench handle to loosen the flare adapter fitting would also go to the left, if using a pipe wrench the jaw opening would go towards the wall.
By using the wall to help hold the 'back up' or holding pipe wrench you can push on the loosening wrench with your body while squeezing the two wrenches together with your arms or adjust the wrench handles to use @Larry Weingarten's lever method.
You can put the wrench handles to the right of the pipe but then you can't use the wall to help add a mechanical advantage.
The way the wrench is placed in your picture you would be loosening the pipe in the fitting above the view your photos provide.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
what you said. yes, they should be reversed.
the wood plate on the left side of the pipe, although 80% was chiseled away, still blocks the clearance for a pipe wrench. I wonder why the contractor didn't cut that section away completely
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First why do you have to remove the fitting?
Second i agree with @Mad Dog_2 Do NOT put a torch near that fitting!
If you can't break that free time to get someone that knows!
Safety 1st
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Hi, Maybe time to see if an offset wrench will fit where the normal pattern doesn't.
Yours, Larry
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is that pinned in place such that you can't pull it out from the surface enough to slide a wrench behind it?
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maybe kind of turn the jaws 90 degrees to the pipe then rotate the wrench to get it on the pipe
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yes the pipe is clamped to the wall
yanking pipes could cause leakage at the connection fittings at a later time, right?
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My fav wrench for that use.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream
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you could temproarily remove the clip.
depends on how hard and how you yank. usually they can move a little without causing a leak. try not to pull such that you unscrew other fittings.
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so the lower one in your photo is what you call a crescent or monkey wrench
could you paste a link?
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@Larry Weingarten has 2 different styles of pipe wrench in his picture.
these are adjustable wrenches, many brands available
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Hi, The lower wrench in my photo is actually an old Hoe Wrench, patented in 1922. It's my go-to wrench, but you would likely have to hunt around on Ebay to find one. Here's an image of a monkey wrench.
Yours, Larry
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A perhaps not so minor comment on both monkey and crescent wrenches (and I have several of each). If you use one where you are going to apply some real force, make sure it is not worn and adjust the jaws to fit the nut or bolt tightly. Otherwise it's going to slip and round the hex, and then you really do have a problem… Honestly, in the application in the photo, I'd go down to the barn and find a deep socket which fit and use that. But then, not everyone has a drawer full of deep sockets down in the barn!
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England2 -
I used to have this type of wrench, but after a few slips, I switched to open end spanners ever since
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then it's an elevated pain. First it will fail the city's pressure test. The next fitting up there is a black iron street elbow that will be even more difficult.
How would you extend that pipe for 6" ?
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On common nuts and bolts where the head isn't very high and the head is usually up against a surface that prevents the wrench from engaging properly, adjustable wenches to poorly. On piping fittings where the hex is taller and usually is out in the open they work well if they are properly engaged with the fitting and turned in the direction where most of the force is on the fixed jaw.
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I knew a guy who'd use a manual impact socket with judicious rap a tap tap. Claimed it is technique not force. OTH he was so strong that he could probably undo it without tools.
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