Water Tanks on Roofs?

ethicalpaul · May 26

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1897390#Comment_1897390

they didn’t plant it. It was already there. They just harvested it

ChrisJ · May 26

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1897397#Comment_1897397

My comment is about those who complain that the modern stuff isn't as strong.

But you can get much stronger in the same amount of time the "old way" got you yellow pine.

That was my point which I believe Jamie understood judging by his response.

Jamie Hall · May 27

I you're ever in doubt about whether that piece is new or old growth — look at the growth rings. Old growth is much finer — maybe an eighth of an inch, often less. Plantation wood may be a quarter of inch or more.

AlaskaDick · May 27

Wood isn't what it used to be. The structural lumber supplied in these days in the box stores in Anchorage, Alaska is "hem/fir." They have some pine, but it is for trim and comes at a premium price. The 60 to 80 year-old wood that I've removed when remodeling my house was probably pine. It was more dense, had straighter grain and fewer knots and wide 1x boards were common. It smelled like pine when cut.

From what I've read, redwood was a wood of choice used in underground water mains 100 years ago.

mattmia2 · May 27

redwood was used as decay resistant wood before pressure treated existed in areas where it was available. cedar was used in areas that didn't have redwood but cedar is much less rot resistant than redwood.

Jamie Hall · May 27

And black locust is better than either in terms of rot — if you can get it. Not a common tree.

pecmsg · May 27

The Locust posts in my basement were installed in 1922 and still rock hard.

jumper · June 3

In the fifties pine was used for window frames because it was hard although coniferous was called soft. At least that's what I remember. White pine was considered junk not worth logging. How stuff changes during one lifetime?

hot_rod · June 3

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1897372#Comment_1897372

The HD I shop at has only “prime lumber” And they cull out any twisted , bowed, cupped, split pieces, spray the end purple and it is on the 50% off cart every morning. After two days it goes into the dumpster. This is a very high volume location with a big budget to right off culls.

I befriended one of the lumber managers and he gave me a whole cart of lumber that was dumpster bound. It’s fine for bracing and cutting into blocking. Or firewood starter.

I asked the local mom and pop lumberyard and they said it has to do with box stores enormous buying power.

So it must be a store buy store lumber quality problem

I buy the engineered lumber from the locals, LVL, I Joist, GlueLam, Rimboard, etc

mattmia2 · June 3

the closest lumber yards are regional now. when the university will pay $6 million for the property the local lumber yard is on, it is hard for anyone to take it over when the owners want to retire. there is a regional chain that seems to have bought up most of the local lumber yards in the region that has a small warehouse and a storefront here that supplies stuff locally from the other yards but you can't just drive over and buy anything that a lumber yard carries and come home with it the same day from them.

hot_rod · June 3

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1897846#Comment_1897846

In boomtown Utah we have a Boise Cascade distributor close by. I still buy through the small local guy as they deliver the long stuff to my yard.

My last summer's project, wrestled these 22' I joist into place by myself.

mattmia2 · June 3

i ordered some hardietrim boards and they carried some of them like it was wood or azek and broke a couple which they had to replace.

what was this thread about?

ChrisJ · June 3

What really bothers me is a 2x4 (or pick any dimensional lumber) is now 1.5 x 3.5 and plenty of excuses of why.

There's some in my downstairs bathroom that I believe are 1.75 x 3.75 and then there's a few that are 1.625 x 3.625. 95% of the house is full dimension red cedar 2x4, 2x6 and 2x8, many of which are actually a hair over. I think I measured my rafters as being 2.125 to 2.25 x 6".

But yeah, it's material needed for planing etc. Sure. Somehow a 1/4" was plenty originally for that excuse, but then it happened two more times, for the same reason.

I can just imagine if I made a customer's parts undersized with the excuse of I needed material for finishing…… If only we could build gang saws with different dimensions to take all of this into consideration, eh? I guess we can, but only in smaller dimensions.

/rant.

mattmia2 · June 3

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1897853#Comment_1897853

it has been that way for like 55 years. the 5/8 stuff was from sometime around wwii to the late 60's. the 3/4 stuff i think is the first time it was standardized, i think all the random dimensions before that were whatever the local mill felt like cutting. the 3/4 stuff is usually not planed as smooth as the 5/8 or 1/2

ChrisJ · June 3

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1897866#Comment_1897866

We all know how important smoothness is for framing lumber and concrete forms.

Jamie Hall · June 3

My son-in-law runs our own saw mill — and planer. What size did you say you wanted? What species wood? Up to 16 feet… and not more than 24" square!

Water Tanks on Roofs?

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