Running a gas steam boiler w/electronic ignition when power is out

Hello skimmer,

When (if) your boiler has devices like the electronic probe type LWCO and ignition module that probably needs 24 VAC you are probably stuck with the use of an inverter 12 VDC to 120 VAC (of some sort) and the 120 VAC to 24 VAC transformer if you plan on using a battery. A possibly simpler way would be a 12 VDC to 24 VAC inverter but those are more rare and probably more expensive.

What ever method you choose to use, I would verify its operation before you actually need it, some folks have complained about their heating equipment not working correctly when power by inverters.

@skimmer

People do what you are wanting to do all the time. They hook up generators by back feeding dryer or stove outlets etc etc.

You can do whatever you want but taht doesn't make it right or legal. You don't want a loss of life or anyone getting hurt.

It's up to you. Just because people publish you tube videos showing how to do these things doesn't make it right.

Anyone can forget and make a mistake and forget to throw a switch or plug in or unplug something and then sometimes something bad happens.

Not telling you what to do or not do. Murphy's law if it can happen it will happen.

Don't forget about high winds, Ice storms, Snow storms, maybe even tornadoes depending where you live. All can cause extended outages. And if you are Joe average your power may be the last to be restored.

Depending on your system's needs, this 40 Watt 12VDC to 24VAC Pure Sine Wave DC/AC Inverter may be interesting. There may be others out there.

https://www.powerstream.com/inv-12dc-24vac.htm

And you don't need to play with the 120 VAC wires.

Had an interesting chat with a power company lineman the other day — one of the fellows who goes up in a bucket truck to help restoring your power when the lines are down.

He pointed out that the procedure which is now used uniformly is very simple. Lines are down. OK. Step 1. Open, using the nearest switches, the affected section of primary. Ground, using a hot stick, all primary lines in three places: both isolation switches and as near the fault as possible. Short all primary lines together in three places. Then go to work. When finished, reverse the process. He noted that it used to be rare to find a back feed from some consumer, but now it's almost all the time. If they do find a back feed, they will disconnect that consumer at the pole as part of the safing process — but they will NOT reconnect that consumer until the premises have been inspected and passed by the local 'AHJ, If they have been able to isolate the back feed, they can restore power to the rest of the circuit when they are done, but if they cannot they have to locate it before they can restore power to anyone.

He pointed out, also, that the initial grounding step usually results in blowing the fuses — if not the device itself — in any back feeding device; they are not responsible for that.

I often wondered if something like this would work. Not sure how long it would last before it needs charging.

https://www.amazon.com/MARUSON-PRO-2000LCD-2000VA-1200W-Interactive/dp/B07DM7HHG3/ref=asc_df_B07DM7HHG3?mcid=955be89a7eaf3d3d9fd51cfa77fa7d20&hvocijid=10053017728527173153-B07DM7HHG3-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10053017728527173153&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005552&hvtargid=pla-2281435180018&psc=1

They would need to do that before they shorted all the primary lines………………….

Thankyou Capt obvious.

Check for voltage to ground.

Check for voltage between phase(s)

Short between phases and ground all conductors.

They have a neat little gadget which has a sensor which goes on the end of a hot stick and can clip over a wire and can sense the direction of and magnitude of power flow in a wire. I have absolutely no idea how it works…

The easiest way to have dependable "dual power" heating is to design for it. I do that in my rentals buildings.

In 30 years of ownership, my tenants have never lost heat for more than a couple of hours. I avoid electronics and design what I can for low voltage operation so that battery power can substitute for line power in emergencies. I include switching for emergency power. Reset controls are old Honeywell mechanical devices and low water devices and feeders are M&M 47s.

The introduction of low priced quality inverters now allow the use of AC controls while maintaining most reliability.

I've been called a Luddite, but my heating systems are always back up and running with a screwdriver in a few minutes. Lightning storm? Power surge? Friday night on a holiday weekend? No problems here.

It can simply be done automatically, but I'd rather be on the scene and make sure I know what's going on. After all, the basement may be filling up with water.

I do have WI-FI cameras,temperature and water sensors that call me if they detect an outage or problem. But I don't depend on them. When they fail, I get in the car and go over. And they fail all the time.

bottom line

Without a interlock if a linesman gets hurt YOU are responsible!

Skimmer,

I had a similar thought. Fortunately my boiler has its own circuit breaker in my panel that doesn't operate anything else. So I had my electrician install this switch which acts sort of like an interlock. When it is flipped to "normal" the switch is bypassed and the boiler pulls power from the panel like normal. If I flip the switch to "generator," it locks out the panel and street power and provides a direct connection between the plug on the left and my boiler. I then connect an extension cord to my EGO inverter powered by big batteries which operate my lawnmower and snowblower and the batteries can operate the boiler presumably for a long time provided by natural gas supply is still operational. With a battery powered thermostat, I think the only thing you are powering is the flame igniter and the low water cutoff. I also have the Milwaukee M18 inverter and a bunch of M18 batteries which would probably work just as well. I hope I never have to use it, but ever since hurricane sandy I've been worried about being without heat in cold weather. I can deal with no electricity but not having heat would be very tough.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FADDE0A/ref%3Dppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The problem with UPS type devices, especially if they have gel cells is folks tend to not maintain the batteries, then when you need it the batteries are junk.