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How to repair a "pin hole" leak in a return (on New Years Eve)
mattm
Member Posts: 40
Hi there, after spending lots of effort to get my old steam system running quietly and efficiently with many thanks to the contributors here... I moved and have a new one pipe steam system, and with it lots of "deferred maintenance."
We've only been here a week, but the return line sprung a substantial leak - the hole was just over 9/16 in size. It looks like the pipe had been repaired in the past and the patch finally came loose. In addition, the return does not look like it is pitched correctly. My primary concern is patching this leak in a semipermanent way. No one is willing to come out and fix it. I'm reasonably competent, but not a plumber. No matter what I'm going to have to make a trip to a plumbing store (if any are open) to try and plug it myself as it is emptying the whole system and having a ton of makeup water in.
Any suggestions? I tried to use a 9/16 stainless screw to plug the hole. I got the screw in, but the hole is bigger. If necessary, I could try drilling gently and tapping it, but then what would I fill it with? It would have to be 5/8, or 11/16 and the pipe is only 1 3/8 OD (I think). I'm in Newton, MA.
We've only been here a week, but the return line sprung a substantial leak - the hole was just over 9/16 in size. It looks like the pipe had been repaired in the past and the patch finally came loose. In addition, the return does not look like it is pitched correctly. My primary concern is patching this leak in a semipermanent way. No one is willing to come out and fix it. I'm reasonably competent, but not a plumber. No matter what I'm going to have to make a trip to a plumbing store (if any are open) to try and plug it myself as it is emptying the whole system and having a ton of makeup water in.
Any suggestions? I tried to use a 9/16 stainless screw to plug the hole. I got the screw in, but the hole is bigger. If necessary, I could try drilling gently and tapping it, but then what would I fill it with? It would have to be 5/8, or 11/16 and the pipe is only 1 3/8 OD (I think). I'm in Newton, MA.
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This stuff works wonders: https://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Tape-RT01019-BRK-RT1000201201USCO/dp/B00AEBKYPG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=CKKQLA6HYG9Z&keywords=leak+seal+tape&qid=1640919546&sprefix=leak+se,aps,71&sr=8-4
You should have a roll on hand anyway...Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
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Two-part epoxy from a hardware store works wonders. Make enough to wrap all the way around the pipe and feather the edges with a wet finger before it hardens.
An English plumber that used to work for me turned me on to Denso tape. It's a fibrous tape impregnated and coated with a petroleum compound. It's a mess to use, but works wonders. Available from Amazon.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab1 -
Guess the home inspector missed that0
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Darn it, Jamie. Now I'm going to have to order some of that, in all eight colors!Jamie Hall said:This stuff works wonders: https://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Tape-RT01019-BRK-RT1000201201USCO/dp/B00AEBKYPG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=CKKQLA6HYG9Z&keywords=leak+seal+tape&qid=1640919546&sprefix=leak+se,aps,71&sr=8-4
You should have a roll on hand anyway...Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-241 -
Thanks all! I'm definitely going to order some of that tape! Got it under control so I'm not losing so much water and can run until I get the pipe run replaced.0
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These tape and rubber wrap/clamp ideas all sound good. Don't try any more with putting something in the hole because it's likely that there is a lot of rot around the hole. Those efforts will just make the hole bigger.
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el2 -
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