New programmable thermostat w/outdoor reset?
The system is a high efficiency combi-boiler with outdoor reset for hydronic floor heat.
Comments
-
Thermostat is for hydronic floor heat. Everything I see online has more wires (black, green). Can I install a new, programmable thermostat (ideally horizontal)?
0 -
That is a picture of your wall plate, and the red and white wires are the ones to which you want to attach the new thermostat?
If so, you you will need a thermostat which is battery powered. There are some battery powered thermostats which are programmable -- in fact, quite a few. But that's what you will need. It will come with a new back plate and should have instructions for hooking up the red and white wires.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
Not a good idea using a programming t stat for in floor. Basically set it and forget it. Very slow reacting.Colors mean nothing, you need to know where there hooked up on the other end.
4 -
If you remove the plate and pull out the cable there may be more wires than you see. For what you want another wire would be handy.
But I agree about the set back.
I tried it in our bathroom and it never worked well. We just set it at 72 (for the bath) and leave it. works great.0 -
Why would another wire be handy? What would it do and what wire?JUGHNE said:If you remove the plate and pull out the cable there may be more wires than you see. For what you want another wire would be handy.
But I agree about the set back.
I tried it in our bathroom and it never worked well. We just set it at 72 (for the bath) and leave it. works great.
0 -
Yes
The colors don’t matter, the
R and W make the heat
come on.I presume your old thermostat had batteries
The new one will need to have batteries as well.1 -
An extra wire could give you a "common" feed, producing 24 volts at the tstat and not having to rely upon batteries. It might help your existing tstat not rely upon the battries.
I think most responses here will advise against the programmable tstat for in floor heat. IMO1 -
I can see a green wire wound back from here , , ,
nest anyone ?known to beat dead horses0 -
0 -
It seems to.
Were you asking if it's correct?
1 -
IDK why your stat isn’t working, but you should never use setback with a modulating boiler; it will counteract with its logic and actually make it less efficient while providing less comfort.
Use a stat without setback and leave it at one temperature.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
2 -
By setback you mean programmable? We are sometimes gone for days and want the ability to adjust temperature each day.0
-
What model t-stat?
How many wires?
Is it wired directly to the boiler?"If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
Albert Einstein0 -
Make sure your connections are good. That red wire looks like it might not be inserted far enough into the terminal.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
The t-stat is battery operated?
Does the boiler fire if you cross the t-stat wires?"If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
Albert Einstein1 -
Looks like you're landed on the right terminals, so check the terminations like @Steamhead said. You should be able to get the boiler to fire by jumping the red to the white, either with a li'l jumper wire or removing them & touching them together. The other thing is that might be a heat pump only thermostat, or it might be set up as a heat pump stat. Check the package for 'conventional furnace/AC' or something to that effect, then check the config as noted in the installation manual. You want 'heat only without fan'.1
-
Thanks, I'll try it. The stat has a switch to change to gas/oil which I did.ratio said:Looks like you're landed on the right terminals, so check the terminations like @Steamhead said. You should be able to get the boiler to fire by jumping the red to the white, either with a li'l jumper wire or removing them & touching them together. The other thing is that might be a heat pump only thermostat, or it might be set up as a heat pump stat. Check the package for 'conventional furnace/AC' or something to that effect, then check the config as noted in the installation manual. You want 'heat only without fan'.
0 -
That looks like it might be a heat pump tstat.0
-
What model boiler?
Do you have a voltage meter?"If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
Albert Einstein0 -
As @Ironman says, changing thermostat settings on a space thermostat conflicts with the logic and control of a boiler operating with outdoor reset. Changing the temperature daily will very likely wind up using more energy than if you didn't, particularly for most of the year when the boiler is not operating at full power.Redhawk24 said:By setback you mean programmable? We are sometimes gone for days and want the ability to adjust temperature each day.
On the boiler not firing. It doesn't fire when you cross red and white at the thermostat? That could be either the thermostat or the wires. Does the boiler fire if you jumper the two wires are the boiler?Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
The oil/gas switch just tells the stat whether or not it needs to energize the fan during a heat call. Since you don't have a wire for the fan, it doesn't matter where it's set at.
What is the exact part number of the stat? Looks like a Honeywell, so it should start with TH, then four digits, then a letter, then four more digits. I'm guessing TH5220something.
0 -
Didn't we have a conversation before about keeping all your posts in one thread?
Asking Erin/mods to combine threads.There was an error rendering this rich post.
1 -
Thanks for your help! RTH2510ratio said:The oil/gas switch just tells the stat whether or not it needs to energize the fan during a heat call. Since you don't have a wire for the fan, it doesn't matter where it's set at.
What is the exact part number of the stat? Looks like a Honeywell, so it should start with TH, then four digits, then a letter, then four more digits. I'm guessing TH5220something.
0 -
Agreed, starting from the beginning each time is not very productive.STEVEusaPA said:Didn't we have a conversation before about keeping all your posts in one thread?
Asking Erin/mods to combine threads.
If crossing the wires at the t-stat does not fix it, you have a wiring or boiler control issue.
If jumping the terminals at the boiler does not fix it, it's a boiler control issue."If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
Albert Einstein1 -
@Erin Holohan Haskell
Is there any chance you could combine these posts so we don't have multiple conversations going about a simple t-stat issue?
@Redhawk24
Phrasing your question differently does not change the problem. I honestly think you are at a point where you need to call a professional. The problem does not appear to be with the t-stat or how it is wired."If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
Albert Einstein0 -
Nope. Thought I deleted this post and just had the other one. Good news is got a new thermostat and it works. The other thermostat was a dud.STEVEusaPA said:Didn't we have a conversation before about keeping all your posts in one thread?
Asking Erin/mods to combine threads.0 -
I didn't realize I had two posts, I thought I deleted the other one. Good news is I got a new thermostat and that was the fix. The other thermostat was a dud.Zman said:@Erin Holohan Haskell
Is there any chance you could combine these posts so we don't have multiple conversations going about a simple t-stat issue?
@Redhawk24
Phrasing your question differently does not change the problem. I honestly think you are at a point where you need to call a professional. The problem does not appear to be with the t-stat or how it is wired.0 -
If the boiler doesn't come on when you connect the red and white, there's something wrong with the boiler—the stat is not part of the circuit so it can't be at fault.
It might be time to call in a pro. Try the 'Find A Contractor' link in blue at the top of the page.
1 -
Thanks! I bought a new thermostat and that was the fix. The other thermostat was a dud.ratio said:If the boiler doesn't come on when you connect the red and white, there's something wrong with the boiler—the stat is not part of the circuit so it can't be at fault.
It might be time to call in a pro. Try the 'Find A Contractor' link in blue at the top of the page.
0 -
Glad you got it figured out.1
-
I've merged these posts. Glad you got it all sorted out, @Redhawk24. Thanks to all for helping.
President
HeatingHelp.com1
Categories
- All Categories
- 85.7K THE MAIN WALL
- 3K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 49 Biomass
- 418 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 71 Chimneys & Flues
- 1.9K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.2K Gas Heating
- 92 Geothermal
- 160 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.2K Oil Heating
- 59 Pipe Deterioration
- 848 Plumbing
- 5.8K Radiant Heating
- 371 Solar
- 14.5K Strictly Steam
- 3.2K Thermostats and Controls
- 50 Water Quality
- 38 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 15 Recall Announcements