New Crown Steam Boiler

coolfx35

So I have my Steam Boiler installed yesterday (Crown Steam Boiler with 172k BTU), replacing my old Burnham boiler. (170k BTU)

https://www.ambientfloorheat.com/products/crown-boiler-bsi-series-bermuda-model-bsi172-gas-steam-boiler

The installation went fine, took a day, 2-3 people, but last night when the tech left, i saw my Sight Glass was doing something really weird, 1st, it's dirty, 2nd, it fluctuates up and down, I recorded a video and uploaded it to youtube. Please let me know what you think the issue is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVVTKy8nsLA

Last night, there were some pipe banging as well. I called back the tech, and he said he is coming tomorrow to take a look, maybe the boiler is dirty and needs some cleaning. It also stops and restarts every few minutes. is that normal? also making noises as if the low water cutoff kicks in and stop the boiler from running, then restarts when water came back, he said it's normal with new boiler now doing intermittent check (green light). I am concerned. This guy seems knowledgeable with steam, he said he did a lot of steam boilers and water heat boilers, and he did all my AC and water heater without issues.

I asked him if it's dangerous to use the heat today, he said no. but i turned it off anyway. It's kind of cold today. So I am using electric heat.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

ImYoungxD

New boilers need to be skimmed for hours until all/most of the oil is gone from the boiler

coolfx35

he definitely didn't do that. I will make sure he does that tomorrow, but do you think it's dangerous to use the heat today? I don't want to crack the boiler if there's no water left.

KC_Jones

Yes skimming, this is standard procedure and they should have said it upfront and in response to you.

I hate to ask, did you call and get @EzzyT to do the work?

Also how was the new one sized?

JUGHNE

The grey box on the upper right....clear cover.....what are the numbers he set things at.
Just curious as he does a lot of steam.
This will not affect your problem for the moment.
Boiler needs skimmed.
Skimming might be mentioned in the book.

How about more pictures of the piping around the boiler?
Back up for the full view.

ImYoungxD

I would keep the heat off. The surge seems to be extreme and could be emptying the boiler although the LWCO is working. You'll be pushing the oily water to your pipes and rads which can cause radiator vents to blow out the dirty water. Happened to me once. Not fun to clean dirty oily water

Don't let the pipes freeze though. Send us more pictures of the set up and the pros can let you know how to skim it yourself since it has to be done frequently.

Ironman

The "CycleGard" LWCO will stop the burner every 10 minutes to check the water level and allow foaming to settle. It's a piece of junk. Once the boiler is properly cleaned and skimmed, have your guy instal a "SafeGard" instead. Even if you have to pay extra for it. It won't stop the burner unless the boiler is actually low on water.

KC_Jones

They are referred around here as psychoguard.

coolfx35

KC_Jones

Well they piped it wrong, copper is a no no, and the equalizer should have been off the end of the header where they plugged it.

Don't pay in full until they make it right. There is a picture right in the manual showing how it's to be done.

That definitely answers my question about calling @EzzyT

KC_Jones

Just noticed the relief valve isn't installed correctly either, should be vertical.

coolfx35

relief valve is vertical...

KC_Jones

did you change it since this picture was taken?

neilc

coolfx35 said:

relief valve is vertical...

no, no it's not,
the little stem on top, operated by that lever, needs to be up and down(vertical), not left and right(horizontal),

coolfx35

what will happen if it's not vertical?

JUGHNE

You said he was coming back tomorrow?
You need to have the installation book in hand. It comes with the boiler. Might still be in the plastic bag lying around somewhere.
You can download the book for that model. (50-60 pages or so).
It will show piping diagrams and minimum sizes for that size.
It may or may not state no copper piping for steam above the water line. However it may discourage that practice.

Your old boiler was piped better than this and how long did it last?
Hopefully you did not pay in full.

neilc

coolfx35 said:

what will happen if it's not vertical?

it's a code violation,
junk builds up at the valve and seat, and at the stem,
either sealing it shut which is dangerous / bad,
or that same junk fouls the seat and valve when you test it annually / monthly, and that's a bad day also.
and it's a code violation

ChrisJ

Ezzt installed that?!? There's no way that's his work. It looks like a bunch of kids were playing.

Ironman

It's piped wrong. The equalizer MUST come off of the end of the header. No copper above the water line.



Also, both riser tappings should be utilized to prevent pulling water up, not just one.

Here's the manufacturer's diagram:

EzzyT

Gentlemen I did not do this install someone else did and they do a very piss poor job. All incorrect as others have mentioned

SlamDunk

I was actually going to say I was impressed with how quick you got a new boiler at the start of heating season.

Get these things corrected and either skim the boiler yourself or have them do it, It takes a long time, and I'll bet you'll have both a quiet boiler and a steady water line.

ethicalpaul

Why are they always messed up? I’m far from a plumber but the diagram is so clear! I know the job site can make things difficult but damn!!

coolfx35

how do I skim the boiler? instructions will be greatly appreciated.

JUGHNE

You need a port above the water line. It should show in the install book which one to use.
Your installer might know where it is and how to skim.

SlamDunk

you could remove t&p valve the way it is installed (incorrectly), crack fill water valve to trickle water in, let it trickle out nipple where t&p was, turn on boiler to heat it up every thirty minutes. keep water approx 180 degrees. the idea is to let machining oils float to top of water and trickle out. it can take 8 hrs or16 hrs. Painful but necessary.

ChrisJ

You can skim that all you want it'll never work because the equalizer is on the wrong side.

Sadly it needs to be fixed.

coolfx35

Ironman said:

It's piped wrong. The equalizer MUST come off of the end of the header. No copper above the water line.

I think the reason he made the release valve horizontal was because the black pipe connecting to the equalizer is directly underneath of it.

hmm... Can it be 45 degrees instead of vertical?

unclejohn

How much trouble would it have been to complete the gas line in black pipe. Doesn't any one carry a fitting bag anymore?

neilc

you could fix that safety valve yourself with one more 90 and some tools,
take the copper off, unscrew it,
back the valve, and the 90 it's on, 1/4 turn counterclockwise,
(well take it out and redope it first,)
then screw your new 90 in where the copper was, and screw the copper back into that 90, done.
takes less time than it did for me to type this.

the header is a little more involved, equally important, and for any decent mechanic, that can read a manual, wouldn't take that much more time than the rest of this typing did.

Reading is fundamental.
(this isn't directed at you)

brandonf

Besides the bad install, was the boiler sized correctly? 🤔🤔

brandonf

If that's a water alarm, I'd prefer to have it on the floor so I would know if there is a half inch of water instead of 4 inches.....just my 2¢.

neilc

I think it's suggested upstairs here somewhere,
instead of the 90 between the valve and boiler,
plumb in a Tee with the valve on top as I suggest above,
and add a valve and cap on the horizontal, this becomes your skim port.
Or post a better picture of that port behind the equalizer.

coolfx35

brandonf said:

If that's a water alarm, I'd prefer to have it on the floor so I would know if there is a half inch of water instead of 4 inches.....just my 2¢.

Good eye, this one has 2 parts, the metal part that detects the water is on the ground. the one you pointed out is the alarm with battery.

coolfx35

brandonf said:

Besides the bad install, was the boiler sized correctly? 🤔🤔

It's pretty much the same as my last boiler, 172btu vs 170btu. i didn't have any issues with my last one. so I assuming I am close. He did count all the radiators and square footage of the house and decided on this one.

Dave0176

@coolfx35 unfortunately I’m not sure why you didn’t choose @EzzyT, or when you reached out to me you never responded back. Ezzy or I would have done this right but, it is what is.

EBEBRATT-Ed

What a shame.

Another installer who can't read. I am sure it was a $$$thing. You get what you pay for. Especially with steam

JUGHNE

Coolfx 35, did you get a contract or proposal from this installer?
It would be interesting to see.....blank out any money reference if you decide to show it.

Ironman

No auto fill valve either?

SlamDunk

you shouldnt need an autofill valve.

ChrisJ

You don't need an auto fill and there's really no reason to bring it up. The op has enough to deal with.

BobC

I agree the equalizer has to be piped correctly, it's a shame because the work he did on the header was not bad -it just won't work right till that equalizer is piped right.

Looking at the manual it seems there is no choice but to use the PRV tapping to skim the boiler. Listen to what others have said about installing a T on that PRV tapping with the safety above and a horizontal pipe and cap to skim through.

Bob