to keep steam or convert
Comments
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Keep the steam.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting
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All things being equal you should keep the steam. You mentioned that you are moving radiators. That means repiping. How much faith do you have in your contractor. Improper steam piping can have seriously negative results. Lack of heat, banging spitting air vents etc.0
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You're not going to get any return when you sell the house.
Some may feel hot water increases curb appeal, but it's not going to change the value of the house.
As others have said, if anyone is modifying piping, make sure they know what they're doing and DO NOT take their word for it. Steam systems work fantastic when done right, and terrible, or even not at all when done wrong.
Feel free to post the plans on here before the work is done. It may save yourself from a nightmare.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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It depends, do you like the radiators? How much work is involved in relocating them? What type of emitters would you use on the new system? How much do you want the space in basement? You're asking this question of some of the best steam guys in the country and I love them, but they're first and foremost steam guys and would consider it sacrilege to toss a 107 year old steam system regardless.of any other factors.To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.0
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You're old and you don't see us tossing you to the side, do you?Robert O'Brien said:It depends, do you like the radiators? How much work is involved in relocating them? What type of emitters would you use on the new system? How much do you want the space in basement? You're asking this question of some of the best steam guys in the country and I love them, but they're first and foremost steam guys and would consider it sacrilege to toss a 107 year old steam system regardless.of any other factors.
Yet?
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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ChrisJ said:
You're old and you don't see us tossing you to the side, do you?Robert O'Brien said:It depends, do you like the radiators? How much work is involved in relocating them? What type of emitters would you use on the new system? How much do you want the space in basement? You're asking this question of some of the best steam guys in the country and I love them, but they're first and foremost steam guys and would consider it sacrilege to toss a 107 year old steam system regardless.of any other factors.
Yet? All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
A lot of things have changed in the last 100+ years on the Heating Front. A few questions you need to ask and get answers to before making a informed decision:
How has the heat Load / Loss changed to the building over the last century?
What size boiler and EDR of the radiators that are currently there?
Keeping the same #'s will give a dramatically oversized "System" so there are going to be changes through out the building envelope. Example: The 4' long radiator in a given room designed for little if any insulation, leaking windows & doors could possibly be replace with a 1 or 2' radiator
So now what resize the entire "System"?
Y E S
Every room need to be recalculated, supply and return lines resized.
Please get someone that can do all the calculations on both heat load / loss and radiator output at given °f temperatures. 140°f water thru 215°f steam!
Then decide what to do.
Now
What about A/C?0 -
Steam boils at 212F at atmospheric pressure. What happens to all the heat below 212F in a steam system? Does it go into your house or up the flue? The answers to these questions might help you decide.
1. Calculate heat loss
2. Size new steam boiler & alternate unit
3. Price out installation of both ( Y intercept)
4. Calculate/estimate fuel & maintenance cost per year ( M slope)
The lines cross at the time when you recoup the extra ROI over the less costly system (Excel is your friend)
Only you can decide if you can wait that long
And then there is the opportunity to install properly sized ductwork for central AC…
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Wow.Wardo said:Steam boils at 212F at atmospheric pressure. What happens to all the heat below 212F in a steam system? Does it go into your house or up the flue? The answers to these questions might help you decide.
1. Calculate heat loss
2. Size new steam boiler & alternate unit
3. Price out installation of both ( Y intercept)
4. Calculate/estimate fuel & maintenance cost per year ( M slope)
The lines cross at the time when you recoup the extra ROI over the less costly system (Excel is your friend)
Only you can decide if you can wait that long
And then there is the opportunity to install properly sized ductwork for central AC…
Two guys so far trying to get them to install forced hot air systems. @Steamhead do my eyes deceive me?
What happens to all the heat below 212F in a steam system?
All the heat? You mean the entire 8-10 gallons of water stored in an insulated boiler? I don't know, what happens to all of the heat stored in the many, many gallons of water in a hot water system, plus the water in the boiler.
We can discuss all of the energy wasted in forced air systems if you wish, I've seen the disasters many guys install and call duct work and they're far from sealed and usually not very well insulated, if at all. Then we've got the electric to run the blower, the noise, the constant temperature swings.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Nope. Unfortunately, scorched-air pushers are all over the place, even here.ChrisJ said:Wow.
Two guys so far trying to get them to install forced hot air systems. @Steamhead do my eyes deceive me?
Yet another set of details they choose to ignore.ChrisJ said:
What happens to all the heat below 212F in a steam system?
All the heat? You mean the entire 8-10 gallons of water stored in an insulated boiler? I don't know, what happens to all of the heat stored in the many, many gallons of water in a hot water system, plus the water in the boiler.
We can discuss all of the energy wasted in forced air systems if you wish, I've seen the disasters many guys install and call duct work and they're far from sealed and usually not very well insulated, if at all. Then we've got the electric to run the blower, the noise, the constant temperature swings.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
If the walls are open you can do what you want. Big negative for most single home steam systems is that resident is supposed to visit boiler regularly. As much as I love steam, and nice looking radiators, steam is only for specialists.0
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That holds true for any system, especially one that involves combustion.jumper said:Big negative for most single home steam systems is that resident is supposed to visit boiler regularly.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
I've found practically every forced air system I've been near works terrible.Steamhead said:
That holds true for any system, especially one that involves combustion.jumper said:Big negative for most single home steam systems is that resident is supposed to visit boiler regularly.
They're noisy, imbalanced and suck a ton of outside air into the structure.
And the reason isn't because forced air systems aren't good. It's because you need a specialist to design and install them. Just like steam and hot water.
Any **** can come along and work on it and yeah, they will limp along. But they won't work very good, just like a botched steam system.
It doesn't matter what you have, be it forced air, geothermal, hot water, radiant or steam. All of them need to be designed, installed and maintained properly.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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> @Steamhead said:
> It depends, do you like the radiators? How much work is involved in relocating them? What type of emitters would you use on the new system? How much do you want the space in basement? You're asking this question of some of the best steam guys in the country and I love them, but they're first and foremost steam guys and would consider it sacrilege to toss a 107 year old steam system regardless.of any other factors.
>
> You're old and you don't see us tossing you to the side, do you?
> Yet?
>
>
>
>
I knew this was coming, and proves my point. This blind slavish devotion to steam is ridiculous. It may be best to stay with the steam system or it may not. I can't tell from here and no one can. Every situation is unique.To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
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lots of grate info. thank you guys for all the fast replies.
sorry but forced air is not an option. 2x4 balloon constitution no room plus i'm not a fan.
I think i'll be keeping the steam. It's going to be to much work and money to install a completely new system. If i was staying in the house for 10-20 yrs i would do it but i plan on moving in 4-5 yrs.
The performance of the steam system has been grate. but i have some concerns. I'm not going to post them now because I dont have all the info you would need to help me answer the questions. I'm going to do some more home work, take some photos and draw up what i have and what i would like to do first.
thank you for the help very impressed with this forum
liam
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No,Robert O'Brien said:> @Steamhead said:
> It depends, do you like the radiators? How much work is involved in relocating them? What type of emitters would you use on the new system? How much do you want the space in basement? You're asking this question of some of the best steam guys in the country and I love them, but they're first and foremost steam guys and would consider it sacrilege to toss a 107 year old steam system regardless.of any other factors.
>
> You're old and you don't see us tossing you to the side, do you?
> Yet?
>
>
>
>
I knew this was coming, and proves my point. This blind slavish devotion to steam is ridiculous. It may be best to stay with the steam system or it may not. I can't tell from here and no one can. Every situation is unique.
It proves we have a devotion to busting your chops every chance we get.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Please feel free to post your concerns.liamnyc99 said:lots of grate info. thank you guys for all the fast replies.
sorry but forced air is not an option. 2x4 balloon constitution no room plus i'm not a fan.
I think i'll be keeping the steam. It's going to be to much work and money to install a completely new system. If i was staying in the house for 10-20 yrs i would do it but i plan on moving in 4-5 yrs.
The performance of the steam system has been grate. but i have some concerns. I'm not going to post them now because I dont have all the info you would need to help me answer the questions. I'm going to do some more home work, take some photos and draw up what i have and what i would like to do first.
thank you for the help very impressed with this forum
liam
You never know, we may be able to give a general idea without information.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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I'm not afraid to take the unpopular approach. My vote is hot water.
In my opinion, any system, steam, hot water, or warm air will run like crap (or not at all) if installed improperly.
Hot water to me is the most forgiving. Warm air and steam....not so much.
Warm air is probably the least forgiving. The ductwork is usually undersized.
If you have ever been in a building with warm air that was done correctly you would see it can work well.
The decision is a payback issue. If the owner stays there for a period of time and installs hot water it will be worth it. It's a lot cheaper to make 140 or 150 deg hot water to heat a house (with properly sized radiation) than it is to boil water at 212 deg.
you can't replace what is lost up the flue from running a higher temperature (steam) boiler.
That being said I do like steam and if he is selling the house in a few years than the best decision may be to stay with steam.0 -
For me it would depend on the emitters I had already. My house has steam only rads so I would never change the steam system. If I was doing a complete gut remodel (all at once) and I had rads that would work with hot water, I would probably consider changing to hot water.
Also I never worry about return on my investment, as far as I am concerned you never really get your money back on a house especially if you finance it.
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Bob, ya know we love ya, but sometimes we can't resist a good punch line.....ChrisJ said:
No,Robert O'Brien said:> @Steamhead said:
> It depends, do you like the radiators? How much work is involved in relocating them? What type of emitters would you use on the new system? How much do you want the space in basement? You're asking this question of some of the best steam guys in the country and I love them, but they're first and foremost steam guys and would consider it sacrilege to toss a 107 year old steam system regardless.of any other factors.
>
> You're old and you don't see us tossing you to the side, do you?
> Yet?
>
>
>
>
I knew this was coming, and proves my point. This blind slavish devotion to steam is ridiculous. It may be best to stay with the steam system or it may not. I can't tell from here and no one can. Every situation is unique.
It proves we have a devotion to busting your chops every chance we get.
In all seriousness, if I was "slavishly" devoted to steam, I would have ripped out the hot-water system in my own house years ago. Obviously I haven't done that- but if the house had had scorched-air, like my parents' house did, THAT would have been one of the first things to go. Some things just aren't worth putting up with, like drafts and dust, germs etc being blown around the house.
What I don't like is when someone rips out a steam system just because it's steam. That makes absolutely no sense. There is no comfort advantage to doing so, and if there is a small difference in efficiency (which would probably disappear once vacuum retrofits go mainstream in contractor-ready packages), when you take into account the increased maintenance and shorter mod-con boiler life expectancy, the payback would take so long as to not be worth the effort.
Now, back to business.......... @liamnyc99 , there are plenty of Steam Men in your area who can make sure your system is modified correctly. Try the Find a Contractor page of this site.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
Chris you have me wrong. I'm not trying to tell the OP in any way what to do, just stating facts. A remodel of a 100+ year structure needs to be done correctly. Many questions need to be asked, data collected and an Informed decision made. I think you'll agree the 100 year old radiator in a given room sized for when there was no insulation and a good chance as Dan said keeping a window open in today's world is "Over-sized"ChrisJ said:
Wow.Wardo said:Steam boils at 212F at atmospheric pressure. What happens to all the heat below 212F in a steam system? Does it go into your house or up the flue? The answers to these questions might help you decide.
1. Calculate heat loss
2. Size new steam boiler & alternate unit
3. Price out installation of both ( Y intercept)
4. Calculate/estimate fuel & maintenance cost per year ( M slope)
The lines cross at the time when you recoup the extra ROI over the less costly system (Excel is your friend)
Only you can decide if you can wait that long
And then there is the opportunity to install properly sized ductwork for central AC…
Two guys so far trying to get them to install forced hot air systems. @Steamhead do my eyes deceive me?
What happens to all the heat below 212F in a steam system?
All the heat? You mean the entire 8-10 gallons of water stored in an insulated boiler? I don't know, what happens to all of the heat stored in the many, many gallons of water in a hot water system, plus the water in the boiler.
We can discuss all of the energy wasted in forced air systems if you wish, I've seen the disasters many guys install and call duct work and they're far from sealed and usually not very well insulated, if at all. Then we've got the electric to run the blower, the noise, the constant temperature swings.
Steam is great. I've lived in many houses with it and worked with it in Manhattan quite a bit.
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No no, I didn't have you all wrong.pecmsg said:
Chris you have me wrong. I'm not trying to tell the OP in any way what to do, just stating facts. A remodel of a 100+ year structure needs to be done correctly. Many questions need to be asked, data collected and an Informed decision made. I think you'll agree the 100 year old radiator in a given room sized for when there was no insulation and a good chance as Dan said keeping a window open in today's world is "Over-sized"ChrisJ said:
Wow.Wardo said:Steam boils at 212F at atmospheric pressure. What happens to all the heat below 212F in a steam system? Does it go into your house or up the flue? The answers to these questions might help you decide.
1. Calculate heat loss
2. Size new steam boiler & alternate unit
3. Price out installation of both ( Y intercept)
4. Calculate/estimate fuel & maintenance cost per year ( M slope)
The lines cross at the time when you recoup the extra ROI over the less costly system (Excel is your friend)
Only you can decide if you can wait that long
And then there is the opportunity to install properly sized ductwork for central AC…
Two guys so far trying to get them to install forced hot air systems. @Steamhead do my eyes deceive me?
What happens to all the heat below 212F in a steam system?
All the heat? You mean the entire 8-10 gallons of water stored in an insulated boiler? I don't know, what happens to all of the heat stored in the many, many gallons of water in a hot water system, plus the water in the boiler.
We can discuss all of the energy wasted in forced air systems if you wish, I've seen the disasters many guys install and call duct work and they're far from sealed and usually not very well insulated, if at all. Then we've got the electric to run the blower, the noise, the constant temperature swings.
Steam is great. I've lived in many houses with it and worked with it in Manhattan quite a bit.
I just thought the suggestion of forced air was wrong.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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That still brings up the question of A/C?ChrisJ said:
No no, I didn't have you all wrong.pecmsg said:
Chris you have me wrong. I'm not trying to tell the OP in any way what to do, just stating facts. A remodel of a 100+ year structure needs to be done correctly. Many questions need to be asked, data collected and an Informed decision made. I think you'll agree the 100 year old radiator in a given room sized for when there was no insulation and a good chance as Dan said keeping a window open in today's world is "Over-sized"ChrisJ said:
Wow.Wardo said:Steam boils at 212F at atmospheric pressure. What happens to all the heat below 212F in a steam system? Does it go into your house or up the flue? The answers to these questions might help you decide.
1. Calculate heat loss
2. Size new steam boiler & alternate unit
3. Price out installation of both ( Y intercept)
4. Calculate/estimate fuel & maintenance cost per year ( M slope)
The lines cross at the time when you recoup the extra ROI over the less costly system (Excel is your friend)
Only you can decide if you can wait that long
And then there is the opportunity to install properly sized ductwork for central AC…
Two guys so far trying to get them to install forced hot air systems. @Steamhead do my eyes deceive me?
What happens to all the heat below 212F in a steam system?
All the heat? You mean the entire 8-10 gallons of water stored in an insulated boiler? I don't know, what happens to all of the heat stored in the many, many gallons of water in a hot water system, plus the water in the boiler.
We can discuss all of the energy wasted in forced air systems if you wish, I've seen the disasters many guys install and call duct work and they're far from sealed and usually not very well insulated, if at all. Then we've got the electric to run the blower, the noise, the constant temperature swings.
Steam is great. I've lived in many houses with it and worked with it in Manhattan quite a bit.
I just thought the suggestion of forced air was wrong.
How the hell is a homeowner supposed to be able to figure $%i! this out?0 -
I installed A\C in my house this summer, sadly, an attic system. But all of the diffusers and returns are in the ceiling, the best place for cooling.pecmsg said:
That still brings up the question of A/C?ChrisJ said:
No no, I didn't have you all wrong.pecmsg said:
Chris you have me wrong. I'm not trying to tell the OP in any way what to do, just stating facts. A remodel of a 100+ year structure needs to be done correctly. Many questions need to be asked, data collected and an Informed decision made. I think you'll agree the 100 year old radiator in a given room sized for when there was no insulation and a good chance as Dan said keeping a window open in today's world is "Over-sized"ChrisJ said:
Wow.Wardo said:Steam boils at 212F at atmospheric pressure. What happens to all the heat below 212F in a steam system? Does it go into your house or up the flue? The answers to these questions might help you decide.
1. Calculate heat loss
2. Size new steam boiler & alternate unit
3. Price out installation of both ( Y intercept)
4. Calculate/estimate fuel & maintenance cost per year ( M slope)
The lines cross at the time when you recoup the extra ROI over the less costly system (Excel is your friend)
Only you can decide if you can wait that long
And then there is the opportunity to install properly sized ductwork for central AC…
Two guys so far trying to get them to install forced hot air systems. @Steamhead do my eyes deceive me?
What happens to all the heat below 212F in a steam system?
All the heat? You mean the entire 8-10 gallons of water stored in an insulated boiler? I don't know, what happens to all of the heat stored in the many, many gallons of water in a hot water system, plus the water in the boiler.
We can discuss all of the energy wasted in forced air systems if you wish, I've seen the disasters many guys install and call duct work and they're far from sealed and usually not very well insulated, if at all. Then we've got the electric to run the blower, the noise, the constant temperature swings.
Steam is great. I've lived in many houses with it and worked with it in Manhattan quite a bit.
I just thought the suggestion of forced air was wrong.
How the hell is a homeowner supposed to be able to figure $%i! this out?
For heat, I have steam.
Best of both worlds.
There's also always the option of mini splits for A\C.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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I plan on installing a 4 zone mini split unit for A/C ill keep you guys posted thanks again0
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You're correct that the current renovation is the perfect opportunity to upgrade the heating system. You mentioned that the home will be for sale in the next few years so it is wise to consider the market value of an upgraded modern heating system as it appeals to home buyers. Personally I've lived in homes with every type of heating, including steam. While the comfort level is nice, I didn't like the high maintenance and the fact that so few steam professionals were available in the area. My fav heating is hot water baseboard and I'm actually a little jealous of my in-laws new modcon combi.liamnyc99 said:Hi I'm considering removing my steam heating system and installing a hydronic combi type system. My question to the community is would it be wise to do so. I'm in the midst of a home renovation witch is going to involve moving some of my steam radiators and re pluming just about the entire system. all the walls are open, new floor joist and sub floor so access doesn't get any better then now.
Unless the home had historical registry value, in your position I would likely rip the steam out and replace with hot water keeping some of the rads if possible and if they worked aesthetically in the remodel or within the heat loss analysis.0 -
If it were mine to do I'd go for keeping the steam and miniplits for the A/C.
However, that's me.
A couple of other comments, though. @gschallert mentioned that they were unhappy with the maintenance requirement of steam. With all due respect, the maintenance requirement for steam is not significantly greater than hot water, and considerably less than for forced air. However, there is an illusion operating here, as both forced air and hot water are more forgiving -- in terms of appearing to keep working and heating -- than steam. All three types of systems work very well indeed, when they are properly maintained. None of them work well, nor cheaply, when they are not -- but steam will inform you when maintenance is being neglected, and the other two won't (I've seen some really horrible forced air systems...).
He also mentioned a possible consideration on historical registry. I believe the OP mentioned that the place had been pretty well opened up already. This has eliminated any possibility for historical registry, so that is a gone goose and not a factor.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
yeah no historical registry. unfortunately the radiators aren't detailed or high end for the time ether but thats ok.
this is a little off topic but seems to be recurring, what major maintenance does steam require that other systems don't?
I have lived here for 25 yrs and other then replacing what i believe was the original boiler 11 yrs ago i have not had to do a thing to my heating system at all.0 -
> @liamnyc99 said:
> yeah no historical registry. unfortunately the radiators aren't detailed or high end for the time ether but thats ok.
>
> this is a little off topic but seems to be recurring, what major maintenance does steam require that other systems don't?
>
> I have lived here for 25 yrs and other then replacing what i believe was the original boiler 11 yrs ago i have not had to do a thing to my heating system at all.
No idea. I add water once a month and rinse the boiler out every year or two.
To be it's a lot easier then bleeding a hot water system after working on it. I used to help a friend with his hw heat and I hated bleeding it.
I still disagree with any modifications adding value to the house.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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I'm scratching my head about all this maintenance as well.0
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I'm keeping away from this thread
lol DL Mechanical LLC Heating, Cooling and Plumbing 732-266-5386
NJ Master HVACR Lic# 4630
Specializing in Steam Heating, Serving the residents of New Jersey
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/dl-mechanical-llc
https://m.facebook.com/DL-Mechanical-LLC-315309995326627/?ref=content_filter
I cannot force people to spend money, I can only suggest how to spend it wisely.......0 -
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What I said was "I didn't like the high maintenance" - meaning that it required too much of my attention when running as steam is much much less forgiving than hot water. Constantly checking water level/quality and dealing with spitting vents, leaking valves and shimming the rads as house settled screwing up pitch etc. Refinishing the emitters was a nightmare too whereas baseboard covers weigh nothing and can go outside to be refinished every 5-10 years so much easier and cheaper. As a homeowner I prefer low maintenance installs in general and hot water baseboard has been the most low maintenance heating system I've ever had other than electric baseboard.Jamie Hall said:A couple of other comments, though. @gschallert mentioned that they were unhappy with the maintenance requirement of steam. With all due respect, the maintenance requirement for steam is not significantly greater than hot water, and considerably less than for forced air.
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In that case I'd definitely ditch 'em. ;-)liamnyc99 said:yeah no historical registry. unfortunately the radiators aren't detailed or high end for the time ether but thats ok.
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Yes,gschallert said:
What I said was "I didn't like the high maintenance" - meaning that it required too much of my attention when running as steam is much much less forgiving than hot water. Constantly checking water level/quality and dealing with spitting vents, leaking valves and shimming the rads as house settled screwing up pitch etc. Refinishing the emitters was a nightmare too whereas baseboard covers weigh nothing and can go outside to be refinished every 5-10 years so much easier and cheaper. As a homeowner I prefer low maintenance installs in general and hot water baseboard has been the most low maintenance heating system I've ever had other than electric baseboard.Jamie Hall said:A couple of other comments, though. @gschallert mentioned that they were unhappy with the maintenance requirement of steam. With all due respect, the maintenance requirement for steam is not significantly greater than hot water, and considerably less than for forced air.
And what all of us are saying is what do you mean high maintenance?
I add water once a month. Checking water quality?
I haven't shimmed a single radiator and some of mine are pitched in the wrong direction, nothing cares. Again, proper pressure matters.
In a properly functioning system vents won't spit nor will they even need to be looked at for a very long time. Decades. I've got a feeling mine may go centuries as steam never even gets to them.
Leaking valves, this also happens on hot water systems, more so in fact due to higher pressures. You believe 80-100 year old hot water systems don't need attention?
It sounds like your complaints were more about really old equipment than about the type of system. Had you installed all new valves, vents and a properly sized steam boiler all of your problems would've gone away aside from paint.
None of this changes the bottom line that the op is concerned about as well. Tearing out the entire system and installing a hot water system WILL NOT increase his or her resale value. To say differently is flat out wrong. It may make the home more appealing to some, but the value will be the same.
All opinions on system types aside, this is a very important factor, perhaps the most important if we're going to give good advice.
I suppose that means, do whatever is easiest and cheapest.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Sorry Mr. Jensen but in a lot of cases buyers look at basement space, and one huge turnoff and obstacle can be low hanging, often asbestos wrapped steam piping. In my area, folks try to maximize thier living spaces. A finished, *useable* lower level, or the potential for one, ups the homes value. 0
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A finished basement is different.Bob Bona said:Sorry Mr. Jensen
but in a lot of cases buyers look at basement space, and one huge turnoff and obstacle can be low hanging, often asbestos wrapped steam piping. In my area, folks try to maximize thier living spaces. A finished, *useable* lower level, or the potential for one, ups the homes value.
I'll agree, that would add to resale value.
But a different heating system alone will not.
Throwing "asbestos wrapped" in there is a moot point as it could be the same for HW. That's totally separate from the type of system.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Asbestos and steam is pretty much a given. Hw, not as much so.0
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I'm keeping the steam
The hole house was filled and covered with asbestos, so nothing new there. but the pipes are not wrapped. the basement is heated (not very well but we will be fixing that) and was finished before.
I would like to move the main supply line from the middle of the basement to the side wall along with the boilers. to free up some room and get rid of the bulkhead. All of the radiator lines go up the side wall so i think i would be simplifying the system if anything. but more on this latter when i can take photos and measurements.
Thanks
Liam0
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