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Boiler repair estimate

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1902Shingle
1902Shingle Member Posts: 33
in Strictly Steam

Hello, I'm in need of some expertise. We have an old steam boiler, probably 1950/1960's and our LWCO has been failing, with it flooding twice last winter. Ive had a difficult time finding anyone even willing to work on it and was finally able to have a company from about 90 miles away give us an estimate. Does this sound reasonable or totally off base? Two of the main vents are leaking as well. Also attached is a pic of our boiler. What is the reason to want to relocate the presuretrol? I will obviously ask them too but wanted another take on it. Thanks so much!!!

1000009512.jpg 1000013792.jpg

Comments

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 7,524

    pricings not allowed. It’s a regional thing.
    where is this boiler located, we may know someone that services that area.

  • 1902Shingle
    1902Shingle Member Posts: 33

    I'm in North Central West Virginia.

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 27,769

    Beautiful country. Bit short on steam people…

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,856
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1904259#Comment_1904259

    What town?

    Co-Founder, All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Semi-retired

    Baltimore, MD, USA

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 4,413

    For that money I'd learn to do the work myself. How many days do they anticipate it will take ? I'd probably get other bids.

    One option is to change to a more modern electronic probe type LWCO and water feeder, way less expensive for the parts. The Cast Iron stuff is expensive.

    Whats wrong with the Pressuretrol location, is the Pressuretrol defective also ? If it is not defective and the cover is just missing I'd buy a cheap used one just for the cover. Touching other stuff on the other side of the boiler may just open up a can of worms, I'd avoid that.

    image.png
    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • 1902Shingle
    1902Shingle Member Posts: 33
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1904261#Comment_1904261

    Fairmont

  • 1902Shingle
    1902Shingle Member Posts: 33

    Yes indeed.

  • TheUpNorthState88
    TheUpNorthState88 Member Posts: 128
    edited 12:23AM

    Pricing discussions aren’t allowed here, but what I will say is for that price, it’s time for a new boiler. That’s exactly why they are protecting themselves with that statement at the end. I would not be dropping almost 7 grand on “fixing” a 60-70 year old boiler.

    It has served its time.

    Lifelong Michigander

    -Willie

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 18,046

    if the problem is that the lwco is sticking it can be rebuilt. it should be disassembled and cleaned every year or 2.

    what type of vents should be called out. those will have to be dealt with regardless of of the boiler is replaced.

    is the boiler being over fed because of issues with the lwco or because the water is leaving the boiler because of system issues.

    i wouldn't expect them to assume all liability for the system if they touch it but i would expect them to troubleshoot to determine if the issue is the lwco or an issue causing the water to exit the boiler during a heating cycle.

    if you're going to replace the pressuretrol you should replace it with a vaporstat.

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 4,413

    As much as I agree with @mattmia2 about cleaning and rebuilding the LWCO and the water feeder valve. My 50 year old M&M 67 LWCO still works fine with minimal TLC. The Pros often go by the manual. Replacement every 10 years seems excessive to me, but if your water quality is poor it may need it if no TLC is performed.

    image.png image.png
    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,856

    I'd get a Hydrolevel 711C manifold with quick-hookup fittings and put a Safguard 400 in it, and mount a VXT-24 nearby:

    https://hydrolevel.com/manifold-fittings/

    This would eliminate a lot of moving parts.

    Co-Founder, All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Semi-retired

    Baltimore, MD, USA

    mattmia2
  • 1902Shingle
    1902Shingle Member Posts: 33
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1904271#Comment_1904271

    Yes thats my concern as well.

  • 1902Shingle
    1902Shingle Member Posts: 33
    edited 1:52AM

    @109A_5 I know the LWCO was cleaned about 15 years ago and I haven't been able to convince anyone to service it since. I also vaguely recall the tech commenting that he didn't think it would be able to be service again. I'm stuck in a difficult situation with no other options to get another quote or anyone else to trouble shoot it.

  • 1902Shingle
    1902Shingle Member Posts: 33
    edited 1:50AM

    I do appreciate the input and knowledge @Steamhead but im not versed enough in this feild to understand what those recoomendations mean.

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,856

    Basically, it's a way to switch from a float-type mechanical unit (McDonnell & Miller #47-2) to an electronic probe-type (Hydrolevel Safguard 400) which is more reliable. The manifold attaches to the sight glass the same as the 47-2, and the probe control mounts on the manifold.

    The VXT is a water feeder, which gets its signal from the 400.

    You do need to blow down the manifold, but the lack of moving parts is a big advantage.

    Co-Founder, All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Semi-retired

    Baltimore, MD, USA

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 4,413
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1904277#Comment_1904277

    Be siting down when you read the quote for a new boiler. And you probably won't get the life out of it like your old boiler. And then there are the issues if it is not installed correctly.

    If you go the new boiler route, read the manual yourself and make sure it has been installed correctly.

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 4,413
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1904278#Comment_1904278

    " I also vaguely recall the tech commenting that he didn't think it would be able to be service again. "

    I'd certainly want to know why. No parts, or the Tech does not like dirty jobs. Example, if the last time you got the oil changed in your car and the tech commenting that he didn't think it would be able to be serviced again, you probably would want to know why, I would.

    Any other Steam Boilers in your area ? If so who does their maintenance ?

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 4,413

    Did they drive 90 miles to present just that quote only ? There are other options as mentioned above. I hate saying this, but sometimes a quote is a subtle message to go away. Happens all the time with automotive repair.

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,856

    @1902Shingle that's a bit more than half a day's drive from Baltimore…………………

    Co-Founder, All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Semi-retired

    Baltimore, MD, USA

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 18,046

    you could just turn off the water feed and feed it manually but since it is also the safety that keeps the boiler from dry firing if either it doesn't get refilled to replace the small amount of normal water usage or something leaks and lets the water out, that isn't really safe.

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