Nail Pullers
I am going to be working on a project where I need to remove some plywood panels and trim boards that are all attached with nails about twice the size of what is needed. I am thinking of buying a slide hammer type nail puller. Do any of you have experience with this or something else that you'd recommend? This seems both easier and less tendinitis inducing than a hammer and a cat's paw. Is there an air hammer version that works well?
Comments
-
-
-
some of it but it will get covered over.
they are around 7d common nails.
the plywood is probably 3/8" but there also some trim boards involved too.
i need to remove some of my porch ceiling to move the posts a bit to give me room to pad them out with trim boards to make them look bigger. i also need to remove some rotting t-111 board to replace it with sheathing and fiber cement shingles. i want to essentially wrap/replace the 1969 "modern" style porch with fiber cement products in a way that is more appropriate to a 1924 house.
1 -
-
it is also overhead which makes holding the cat's paw and swinging the hammer more challenging
0 -
-
a lot of nails are in awkward places were it is hard to pry the sheet down. the piece i pulled down to see how it was structured, one post went through a notch in the sheet and the other post was underneath the post. took me a while to figure that out. the post underneath isn't really structural, it is just there to support the railing.
0 -
If the work is overhead and you're by yourself, get a couple of Superbars and keep prying from a seam. Maybe a long wedge.
It might leave some nails behind, but they'll be easy to remove.
1 -
I use something like that tool — only about a hundred years old… and it works well. But if I'm just pulling something apart, my go to is the Superbar which @HVACNUT showed. Oddly enough — particularly on trim pieces which I might want to reuse — it actually does less damage to get it under the wood — between the wood and whatever it's attached to — and pulling that way, rather than trying to get under the nail head. Any mark left is on the back of the wood that way, and you can pound the nail out from the back once you get the whole mess off.
Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England2 -
i'm not surprised that you can still buy one new but i am surprised that it comes from cooper rather than some obscure small manufacturer.
0 -
I have one that my dad bought 70 years ago when we were salvaging lumber from an undending supply of packing crates. It's all cast iron. I still break it out occasionally as it is sometimes the best tool for the job. I use it in combination with a cats claw, wonder bar, reciprocating saw, and oscillating saw. They all have their place, sometimes in the same project. One warning - they are famous for catching one's skin where the two parts of the handle slide together and will bite and give a nasty blister. I've done it many times over the years.
2 -
so then gloves…
0
Categories
- All Categories
- 87.7K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.3K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 59 Biomass
- 430 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 129 Chimneys & Flues
- 2.2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.9K Gas Heating
- 122 Geothermal
- 170 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.8K Oil Heating
- 79 Pipe Deterioration
- 1.1K Plumbing
- 6.6K Radiant Heating
- 396 Solar
- 16K Strictly Steam
- 3.5K Thermostats and Controls
- 56 Water Quality
- 51 Industry Classes
- 51 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements




