Sealing an arcoliner
I did a repair on an Arcoliner recently and I will be going back to do an annual service and tune up. I did a quick combustion analysis before I left and even when I had what could be called a good looking Flame there is way too much excess air. The draft in the pipe is between -.03 and - 05. I haven't tested the draft over the fire but I'll bet good money that it's higher than what I want it to be.
Right now I'm assuming the excess air is coming from the doors that are no longer fully sealing themselves. Any ideas on a removable method of sealing up around those doors? I don't want to gob them up with furnace cement and then have to chip it off every year in order to service it. What would be ideal would be a high temp stays flexible, putty. I just don't know anything like that but maybe some of you do or have another idea for me.
Comments
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Are the doors just flat to flat contact without a gasket groove?
If so, I have gotten some almost flat or small diameter temp rated gasket and taped it in place with blue painters tape. Close the door and cut off the excess showing if you wish.
Next time opening the gasket will probably just fall out and maybe reusable.
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Yes, flat to Flat contact just as you described. I like your idea I'm going back tomorrow
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This is the boiler with the front double doors? Its been a long time but isn't there a groove around the perimeter of the doors for kaowool rope.
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Two ways:
Red RTV hi temp silicone in a caulking tube or
You can by Kao wool flat tape or round rope.
I put it on by quickly wire brushing the cast iron and spray it and the rope with 3M contact cement. Let it dry and then stick the rope on
If you have a lot of air leaking in the Co2 will be low. Draft in the flue doesn't matter much over the fire should be -.02ish. Could be leaking around the doors between the sections or into the fire box.
Take a Co2 over the fire (don't burn up the tester). If over fire is higher Co2 than at the breech you have air leaking in.
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What model Arcoliner? What burner is on it? What nozzle are you using?
Baltimore, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
if you do it right with the silicone you can oil or wax one of the surfaces and clean the other surface and get it to stick to one surface but not the other and make a gasket that will come away with the door.
also look carefully at all of the other various seams and dampers and such and especially where the burner is mounted.
I think @EBEBRATT-Ed mentioned a type of furnace cement you could chip off and mix with water and stick back on. although that really just sounds like clay.
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Yes, this has double front doors I didn't notice a Groove for a gasket but I will look at that when I go back. Thank you
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Should be a 4-section. Dry-base or wet-base? Hint- if the return line connects just above the floor, it's wet-base. If it connects 12-18" above the floor, it's dry-base.
Baltimore, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0
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