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Sealing an arcoliner

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Robert_H
Robert_H Member Posts: 346

I did a repair on an Arcoliner recently and I will be going back to do an annual service and tune up. I did a quick combustion analysis before I left and even when I had what could be called a good looking Flame there is way too much excess air. The draft in the pipe is between -.03 and - 05. I haven't tested the draft over the fire but I'll bet good money that it's higher than what I want it to be.

Right now I'm assuming the excess air is coming from the doors that are no longer fully sealing themselves. Any ideas on a removable method of sealing up around those doors? I don't want to gob them up with furnace cement and then have to chip it off every year in order to service it. What would be ideal would be a high temp stays flexible, putty. I just don't know anything like that but maybe some of you do or have another idea for me.

Comments

  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,617

    Are the doors just flat to flat contact without a gasket groove?

    If so, I have gotten some almost flat or small diameter temp rated gasket and taped it in place with blue painters tape. Close the door and cut off the excess showing if you wish.

    Next time opening the gasket will probably just fall out and maybe reusable.

    Robert_H
  • bburd
    bburd Member Posts: 1,324

    Sounds like the barometric draft regulator might need adjustment too.


    Bburd
    Robert_H
  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 346

    Yes, flat to Flat contact just as you described. I like your idea I'm going back tomorrow

  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 346

    Actually the draft regulator was laying on the floor lol. I repaired it and plan on replacing it. However on the spot I did get the draft adjusted to the readings I posted earlier. But tomorrow I will be looking at the draft over the fire. And making the proper adjustment

    bburd
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 7,581

    This is the boiler with the front double doors? Its been a long time but isn't there a groove around the perimeter of the doors for kaowool rope.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,706
    edited July 30

    Two ways:

    Red RTV hi temp silicone in a caulking tube or

    You can by Kao wool flat tape or round rope.

    I put it on by quickly wire brushing the cast iron and spray it and the rope with 3M contact cement. Let it dry and then stick the rope on

    If you have a lot of air leaking in the Co2 will be low. Draft in the flue doesn't matter much over the fire should be -.02ish. Could be leaking around the doors between the sections or into the fire box.

    Take a Co2 over the fire (don't burn up the tester). If over fire is higher Co2 than at the breech you have air leaking in.

    Robert_H
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,765

    What model Arcoliner? What burner is on it? What nozzle are you using?

    All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Baltimore, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 17,749

    if you do it right with the silicone you can oil or wax one of the surfaces and clean the other surface and get it to stick to one surface but not the other and make a gasket that will come away with the door.

    also look carefully at all of the other various seams and dampers and such and especially where the burner is mounted.

    I think @EBEBRATT-Ed mentioned a type of furnace cement you could chip off and mix with water and stick back on. although that really just sounds like clay.

    Robert_H
  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 346
    edited 12:26AM

    Yes, this has double front doors I didn't notice a Groove for a gasket but I will look at that when I go back. Thank you

  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 346

    the label plate is rough but as best I can tell its a 0 154 7. series IBT J2. Beckett AF burner. and of course I did not make note of the nozzle

    neilc
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,765

    Should be a 4-section. Dry-base or wet-base? Hint- if the return line connects just above the floor, it's wet-base. If it connects 12-18" above the floor, it's dry-base.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Baltimore, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting