Water heat ball valve for quicker flushes and also corro-protec annod rod

jgg765 · July 21

First question:

I am buying a RG140T6N Bradford white water heater. I am looking to put a ball valve at the bottom for quicker flushes. Will this ball valve work

5415AB DZR LF Brass PEX (EVERLOC+®) Ball Valve

https://redwhitevalvecorp.com/product/5415ab-lf-pex-everloc-ball-valve/

Second Question:

What do people think about the corro-protec powered annod rod? Snake oil or does it work.

Thank you.

Intplm. · July 21

That is a ball valve for PEX tubing.

Replace your current drain valve on the water heater with something like this.

There are other configurations like this. This is one very good example. There is an all-in-one version of this too.

As to the Corro-Protec powered anode rod, it is a very good investment. No snake oil at all.

In your case, you will need the one that is specific to the Bradford White water heater. There are two types. Be sure to ask for the Bradford White one.

hot_rod · July 21

Here is an option. It's nice to have the cap. A 3" brass nipple also.

Intplm. · July 21

@jgg765

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

And you will still need a brass nipple.

Larry Weingarten · July 21

Hi, One thing I'd do is use a plastic lined steel nipple between the tank and valve. Usually three inches long works. This reduces galvanic corrosion.

Yours, Larry

EBEBRATT-Ed · July 21

I know it is a little more work but if you buy the ball valve, nipple, hose adapter and a hose cap its a lot cheaper than buying a hose end ball valve

mattmia2 · July 21

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1900575#Comment_1900575

and that was all that was available locally, but i really do like the apollo ones with the hose thread and cap all in one assembly. I even used one for a washer hose the last time I had to rework one of those.

EBEBRATT-Ed · July 22

@mattmia2

Back when I was estimating a ball valve was maybe $6 and they were getting maybe $15 or more for a hose end valves.

So I would by hose adapters and caps you need a nipple for either valve.

The guys on the job would complain sometimes like it would take 1/2hour to pick up the hose adapter out of the box and put teflon tape on it and screw into the valve with a cap

mattmia2 · July 22

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1900590#Comment_1900590

that depends on how good you are at keeping track of your tools.

hot_rod · July 22

since you are going to the trouble to add a user friendly valve, I would not buy an economy valve

A brand name full port with stem packing is what you want

But regardless of the valve , it needs to be used a few times a year at least to prevent sticking.

At some point the sediment doesn’t flush out without stirring it up somehow or vacuuming it out

ethicalpaul · July 22

Newer water heaters have engineered some kind of new shape at the bottom that supposedly prevents sediment buildup, do you folks buy it?

mattmia2 · July 22

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1900622#Comment_1900622

i remember the curved dip tubes from the 80's. not sure if they have something new they are trying. it would seem thicker steel and more anode would be the real things to work on.

Larry Weingarten · July 22

Hi, The best tank shape I've seen is in the Marathon heaters. Having the bottom domed down to a drain puts gravity on your side. 👍

Yours, Larry

hot_rod · July 22

here is the Webstone/ Nibco number. Iwould guess Amazon, Supplyhouse.com, Grainger, etc could ship one. The earlier one was a Home Depot part.

Intplm. · July 23

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1900622#Comment_1900622

Yes, I buy it. Bradford White has that design. With a curved dip tube that offers a swirling action that helps prevent mineral deposits (rice stone) from forming in the tank.

hot_rod · July 23

I think the main cause of tanks filling with deposits is when no water is flowing the minerals settle out and end up at the bottom.

The hotter the operating temperature to more minerals separate out, think tea kettle.

I don't see the shape of the tank changing the cause of the sediment build up? Maybe less "storage" space if the bottom is domed up?

Any tank of that gauge metal, tested to 300 psi will require domed ends, either up or down.

jumper · July 30

Cap is more than nice. Even the best valve might not close completely.

Water heat ball valve for quicker flushes and also corro-protec annod rod

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