What would you do? Thread or remove.

Gjansen · 2:35PM

Hi I just had my 1906 asbestos caked boiler and pipes removed from my basement. Old gravity hot water 2 pipes to each radiator system. I will be installing a new high-efficiancy boiler with pumps and two zones. As part of the prep, I need to get these pipe ends able to accept the new PEX. For those who have done this before, would it be easier for me to try and remove, I.E. unthread the bit of pipe they left, or to cut new threads on the stub outs? I tried one with a maybe 18" pipe wrench I have and it didn't budge. I have not tried heat or a bigger wrench yet. Harbor Frieght has a pipe threading kit for about $75. Here are some photos, and some photos of the boiler that was removed. I have about 16 pipes I need to address. 1-1/4" I think.

STEAM DOCTOR · 3:18PM

Cut notches and chisel. Under 10 minutes for those who do this regularly.

Gjansen · 3:28PM

Didn't think of that!

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes · 3:33PM

You could rent a Megapress tool and use this fitting.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Viega-25145-1-1-4-Viega-MegaPress-Adapter-Press-x-Female

Either way, I'd cut back further and remove those unions.

Gjansen · 3:53PM

Never seen those. Interesting. Pricey little devils. I might try heat and brute force first. Some radiators are on the floor above, so I could always cut the pipes off there, open the union, and thread a new piece of 1-1/4 down the hole, add a new elbow and reducer to the PEX size.

Steamhead · 3:54PM

That old boiler was probably 40% efficient……………

Gjansen · 4:08PM

Probably, but in 25 years I did absolutely zero repairs on it. Heated the home smoothly, evenly and comfortably. Problem is if I ever go to sell the house that thing would get red tagged so fast. All the asbestos would be a no-go too. I just hope the new one doesn't become a maintenance nightmare, with all the moving parts. Amazing on the old system the only moving part was the gas valve opening and closing.

hot_rod · 4:30PM

unscrew back to the ells, get rid of the union two hammers, one for backing and tap around the fittings to help loosen them

leonz · 6:15PM

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1899198#Comment_1899198

Were your radiators used as a closed expansion tank system by leaving an air charge in each radiator creating the point of no pressure change or do you have an open to air expansion tank in the attic?

You could use an EFMDF520 stoker boiler with a gas burner with its large steam chest and tapping and leave your existing system intact. It would save you a lot of work and money giving you a boiler that would work just like your snowman conversion boiler.

The EFM DF520 coal stoker boiler is certified and pressure tested for steam heat as a standard certification. You would not have to use the coal stoker if you have no desire to do so.

Gjansen · 6:33PM

I had an expansion tank in the ceiling near the boiler. No air in the radiators. Now that the boiler and pipes are out I need to run new PEX lines to the radiators. I'm not changing out the old cast iron radiators.

Kaos · 6:53PM

Did exactly this a while back on a 100 year old system. Pipe wrench with a 6' cheater bar got them out. Did bend the pipe wrench a bit on one of the pipes.

Remove the elbow and install adapter for there. Does feel wrong to connect a 5/8 pipe to a 1" riser but works great. The new piping completely eiminated the cold rad at the end of the run issue the house originally had.

That steel piping was keeping your rads from tipping over originally. Depending on how much pipe you have left in the wall, you will most likely have to anchor the rads to the wall. Threaded rod with ceiling flange hanger plates between the rad columns works well.

Gjansen · 8:03PM

Good point about them tipping over. They are taller radiators.

Mad Dog_2 · 8:58PM

Cut a "tooth" out of the piece and pound it out with a Lump hammer....Don your safety goggles. Mad Dog

What would you do? Thread or remove.

Comments

Categories