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How much time left on this ticking time bomb

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parity_check21
parity_check21 Member Posts: 26
edited 1:25PM in Strictly Steam

16 year old Weil-Mclain EGH-95. 400k BTU, likely oversized for my 650 EDR single pipe home.

I've documented various repairs I made to corroded pipes that have gotten me thorough some bonus winters, but the constant makeup water refills are getting worst, 1-2 gallons per day escaping as steam through the vent. When filled above water line the water trickles out, which confirms the leak.

I am highly skilled at home renovation and plumbing/electrical, but one thing I cannot physically do is install a new boiler entirely my self. Was hoping to get a few more years out of this while I save for the inevitable. I've seen pictures of boilers that look much worse than mine, but it seems irresponsible to rely on this unit for another season with what I know.

Previous homeowners installed the unit but did zero maintenance. Also it is direct venting which probably should be going through my historic chimney if physics allow for it.

First contractor had no regard to my sizing concern. Second contractor refused to price out a proposal until I had my chimney checked for ventilation capability.

What I am looking for is:

  1. Realistically how much life is left (I know the answer but am in denial stage)
  2. Direct vent debacle: Is this a must to get rid of? my current system is not designed for a power blower but they used it anyway.
  3. Cant can be done to prevent further corrosion. I have a water softener, if I bypass my municipal water is very hard. Seems bad either way.

Thanks!

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/195729/corroded-return-pipe

IMG_4580.png IMG_4581.png

Comments

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 27,540

    Well… on further life, anything you can get out of it is a bonus. It's done. Sorry about that…

    I'm not quite sure how anyone is getting reliable combustion with a blower, but I suppose it can be done setting various dampers correctly. It would be better with natural draught, but…

    We never quote price on The Wall. There are various reasons for that — all good. Sorry about that, too!

    Now on the corrosion, since you won't want that to happen on the replacement boiler. Two things. First, check all over the entire system for anywhere that you are losing steam or water. A new boiler shouldn't use more than a gallon or two a month — if that. Makeup water is always a problem. HOWEVER. You mention a water softener. I do hope that you aren't using softened water. That really is lethal for a boiler. The municipal water may be hard — but if you keep the makeup water down, blowing the boiler down once a year or so will control the scale. You can further help with keeping the pH in the slightly basic range — that helps. But softened water? No. No Way.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 17,286

    please edit to remove prices, we can't talk about prices of services.

    that boiler is about twice the size that you need.

    there are add on power venters that can be added to atmospheric boilers. that might not be a bad option if the chimney needs more than just a liner.

    if the leak is between sections rather than within a section you could potentially disassemble it and reseal it. people have had some success screwing and epoxying a plate over some leaks depending on where they are.

    the added makeup water will corrode other parts of the system so if you keep running it with a lot of water loss you may be spending more money on repairing rotted out returns and mains too.

    it is possible you could hire movers or millwrights or something like that to move the old boiler out and the new boiler in and pipe it yourself but your vent situation sounds like you need to find someone that really knows what they are doing to deal with the vent and setting up combustion.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 17,286

    looking at your old post there is significant repiping to do to properly connect a new boiler. the header on that boiler is wrong and it connects in to the header from the previous boiler. that all needs to be cut out and the mains individually connected to a new header between the risers from the boiler and the equalizer.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 17,286

    there are boiler fill filter cartridges that you can put in the feed to the boiler that do some demineralization. use the unsoftened water and the cartridge.

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,641

    @parity_check21 , you need to remove pricing information from your post.

    Now.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Baltimore, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,421

    @parity_check21

    If your EDR is really 650 your about 150,000 btu/hr oversized.

    If you have any leaks in the system now is the time to tighten things up before a new boiler gets installed. Also go through the venting and replace any vents and check the vent sizing.

    Then you have to find the right contractor who will correctly install a new boiler.

    Posting your location may help

  • parity_check21
    parity_check21 Member Posts: 26

    Montgomery County, PA.

    I'm going to get an exact EDR tonight, that was an estimate, but I doubt I'm off by more than 10%.

    Have a chimney contractor coming soon but I am not sure I have a full 8' of continuous diameter, might be closer to 7'. The picture was taken from the roof looking down. The round section is 11" wide then it narrows to a square possibly clay lined section that may or may not span the entire length.

    IMG_4578.png


    I removed the pricing question. Sorry about that, I know pricing can be a sensitive topic.

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