Well... we gotta leak.
Sooo, I installed a 4" copper main on a very large building, and because I had a minor lapse in judgement I decided to solder it. No need to say it, I wont do it again. Next time it will be press, or victaulic, or welded, but not soldering over 3" ever again. It's not that we are not capable, just read on.
I pressure tested it and it held the 100lbs like a champ. Then after one winter it sprang a leak. I get it, I understand it, no need to explain why it happens, or what I did wrong I am very sorry and again I wont repeat this mistake.
Now, the question is with a tight space, and 4" fittings, has anyone successfully pulled apart, cleaned, refluxed and soldered successfully? I can get it pretty dry and I wont do this until June so I got all day to repair, but want to get it right. I would be happy to get the right torch head if anyone has suggestions on that as well. Out of the 20+ joints we got one weeper, well two if you include me.
Thanks
Tom
Montpelier Vt
Comments
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Pro Press.
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on large sizes like that you can pre-tin the tube and fitting. Basically wiping solder around the pipe and fitting first, then assemble.
If it is no too close to other fittings you could silver solder over the fitting.
Blockade is a good rod for that use.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Most of our copper work is in 2-4" and we never sweat anymore unless a property specifically wants it. You need a lot of heat for 4", so we would typically do two torches at once, one on each side. There are fancy round pipe torches, but we never had those.
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Maybe rent one of those fancy round torches?
Baltimore, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Without re-soldering it, I would silver braze right over it. As long as you're not going to burn anything next to it, its the fastest, easiest fix here. Mad Dog
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Do you have a photo of the joint and situation? What's also great about silver brazing is that you can drill a small hole at 90 degree 6 o clock position and drain any residual standing water. That hole will be the last part you will braze close. Also, you don't need a Large Rosebud tip or Oxy-Acetylene on 4" Copper. A large Turbotorch tip and a Full B Tank and youre good to go. Mad Dog
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