Burnham boiler question

Another question is, (I have not blown water using a compressor), with the main water valve off and all faucets drained, every weekend when I visit, there will be abundant water from the faucets in the basement and on the first floor. So I drain these faucets every weekend, but there will be water available again from the faucets the following weekend. Why does it take those latent water a long time to arrive near the faucets?

I thought the water was hiding somewhere.

The faucet on the second floor (top) remains having no water since I turned off the gate valve at the water meter. I checked the gate valve, it is already tightened by hand. If not, water should distribute to all floors, rather than just bsm and first floor.

Btw, I removed the lwco probe. After some scrubbing with scotch Brite, the probe shows the color of cooper. I'll take wire brush next time to clean the threads, also bring the pipe dope and Teflon for reinstall. The inside of the tapping shows lots of rust and corrosion, will take pictures of that too.

the manual says the vent damper has a spring loaded blade that only opens when tstat calls for heat (p27) and closes when the call is satisfied (to prevent exhaust backup? ). But this vent damper is not wired to the transformer. how can it open?

I think you are saying the factory jumper plug on the vent damper receptable inside the junction box.

with the jumper, the gas valve does not need wait for the damper's cue to open.

I'm still confused because the damper blade should be normally shut. Is it likely jammed physically at the fully open position?

I overlooked the "remove the damper" part in your previous post.

the boiler has been working this way for at least a decade. The damper blade should be constantly open, correct? what I want to ask is how to peek into the inside to verify.

Thanks. I'm more hands on and careful than my questions may sound. I will take a look next time. I'm only there every weekend.

could you highlight the sections of the piping that need insulation in the photo below? The riser, header, further riser and main, equalizer?

Thanks, this looks authentic work

around unions are PVC union covers, not fiberglass tube, correct?

I was planning to use ceramic wrap for those transitioning

Ed, is this radiator sufficient for a 2nd floor bathroom that is about 5'x7' with a height of 8'?

The radiator has 4 columns and 4 sections, with a height about 1'7"

Thanks!

more recommendations please, guys?