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Rehashing the old Williamson vs Weil McLain comparison, and new boiler specs

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Hi all,

I'm finally going to get my very old weil mclain replaced, after limping through winter with boiler plug fluid.

Anyhow, my plumber said this is entirely up to me, but he recommends a Williamson vs a Weil McLain branded boiler, as they are identical (or near it) and a matter of branding. I've looked at old posts, but they were exactly that (old), so I thought I'd ask for current affairs: are they the same thing?

Also- I have a 1 pipe steam system, and am assuming all the plumping away from the boiler will remain untouched, but the boiler and near boiler plumbing of course changing over with the new unit. I do trust my plumber, but other than the unit itself, what should I be asking for or making sure he does?

Old boiler I'm told is way oversize at 184,000BTU. He calculated EDR to land between 125-150, so we are downsizing in any case

As always, this forum is a wealth of information, so thanks in advance!

Comments

  • 5horizonsrr
    5horizonsrr Member Posts: 62
    Al

    so, an image of the current setup if helpful:
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 19,291
    I hope he calculated the EDR right. 150 EDR is only 36000 btu.

    Williamson and Weil are the same boiler for all practical purposes. Make sure he cleans and skims the new boiler and follows the MFG piping requirements
  • 5horizonsrr
    5horizonsrr Member Posts: 62
    edited June 2022
    ah sorry, 125000-150,000 btu for the new boiler! (it landed at 130,XXX) which brings a good point- better oversize or under?

    Thanks on the cleaning and skimming...
  • The Steam Whisperer
    The Steam Whisperer Member Posts: 1,313
    I've looked at both just recently and the Weil Mclain is 1 % more efficient in the ratings. I believe this is due to an additional steel panel between the sections that was recently added to the Weil McLain. The Williamson doesn't have this panel. I'd say that the Willimson is just the previous model Weil McLain boiler just like the Crown being the previous Burnham boiler model.
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
    5horizonsrr
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 11,500
    Crown Boiler was a locally owned business in Philadelphia until recently. They would purchase castings and build their own steel boilers back in the day. Within the last to years or so, US Boiler purchased the Crown Boiler Co. So now Burnham and the former Crown Boiler have the same owners but they are operated independently.

    Since they have access to the same castings but are operated independently I can see where there will be some difference. But I have noticed that Williamson uses the same cast iron sections as Weil McLain. I wonder if Williamson might have a slightly lower standard for what is acceptable, so a casting that might not pass the Weil McLain standard might be acceptable to the folks at Williamson. I'm not saying that is the case, I am just wondering!

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    5horizonsrr
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 19,291
    @EdTheHeaterMan

    Just a wild guess because I don't know but I would bet both boilers (Williamson & Weil) come out the same factory door. Only some are green and some are yellow. It would be interesting to know, just a guess
    5horizonsrr
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 11,500
    edited June 2022
    Not sure on Weil/Will, but I know that Velocity Boiler Works (what used to be Crown) are still in Philadelphia on I Street. (Yes Philadelphia has number and alphabet streets, the letter I ). No Burnham boilers there!

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    5horizonsrr
  • The Steam Whisperer
    The Steam Whisperer Member Posts: 1,313
    Thier steamer appears to have the same castings as the Burnham Independence.
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
    5horizonsrr
  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,499
    @The Steam Whisperer. I don't think so. The tappings and controls are not in the same spot. The flue is very different. Maybe the castings are the same and they are just tapped differently?? At least until recently, the Williamson sections said Weil McLain on them. Maybe the still do. 
  • The Steam Whisperer
    The Steam Whisperer Member Posts: 1,313
    I believe the castings are turned 180 degrees on the base.
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,499
    Interesting. Didn't know that. 
  • The Steam Whisperer
    The Steam Whisperer Member Posts: 1,313
    I'd double check, but I'm pretty sure that is the case.
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,034
    The one difference I recall was from the controversy a couple years ago where WM started only providing a steam supply tap on one side instead of both for those smaller boilers that only needed a single supply.

    Installers didn't like this because it removed flexibility and also a lot of them like to use both supplies even if the boiler doesn't make enough steam to need it.

    WM relented and put the port back on both sides, but I recall reading that they left the "off-brands" with just the single port.

    So if that's important to you for flexibility then it might be worth looking into. My personal opinion, backed up by experiment on my Peerless is that for normal installations, you only need to pipe it how the manufacturer recommends--you don't need to exceed it.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,499
    Williamson removed the right hand steam tapping for a while. Williamson reversed course around 2 years ago (timing might be off). The Williamsons now have both steam tappings again. 
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,034
    edited June 2022
    Hmm, it's my clear memory that yes, WM restored it for their Weil-McClain brand boilers, but not for their discount brands.

    The Williamson manual on their web site today shows a single port.

    Of course if you have personal experience looking at a recent one, that would trump all of the above.

    PS: If it were me I'd definitely buy one of their discount brands, that is, if Peerless didn't exist :smile:


    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,499

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,034
    edited June 2022
    That one is too close to the controversy for my comfort...are they still coming out that way? If so, they are counter to their published documents

    But setting that question aside, to answer the original question, would you have any hesitation buying a Williamson vs a WM brand, @STEAM DOCTOR ?

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,499
    That one was maybe 9-12 months after they removed the second tapping. I have put in a whole bunch, since that posting in late 2020. They have all had the second tapping. Pre controversy, Williamson had the second tapping, but didn't list it anywhere. Post controversy, the box mentions the optional 2nd tapping.  If I had to choose between WM or Williamson (assuming both tapping were in existence) I would certainly choose Williamson. Same boiler, few less buckaroos. There are some benefits to WM. They come with tankless coil option (haven't done one in a while, but I hear they are hard to get, maybe harder then other boilers) and they come without plugs in the tappings (99% sure about that). And WM comes without jacket and controls installed. Could be a plus or minus, depending on the situation. 
    ethicalpaul
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 17,039

    That one was maybe 9-12 months after they removed the second tapping. I have put in a whole bunch, since that posting in late 2020. They have all had the second tapping. Pre controversy, Williamson had the second tapping, but didn't list it anywhere. Post controversy, the box mentions the optional 2nd tapping.  If I had to choose between WM or Williamson (assuming both tapping were in existence) I would certainly choose Williamson. Same boiler, few less buckaroos. There are some benefits to WM. They come with tankless coil option (haven't done one in a while, but I hear they are hard to get, maybe harder then other boilers) and they come without plugs in the tappings (99% sure about that). And WM comes without jacket and controls installed. Could be a plus or minus, depending on the situation. 

    My EG series didn't have any plugs installed back in 2011, but I also ordered it completely unassembled except for the block.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,499
    I think that is standard for WM,gas, steam (at least the ones that I have delt with). Block assembled, no plugged tapped tappings and controls and trim/jacket in boxes. 
  • archibald tuttle
    archibald tuttle Member Posts: 1,153

    didn't look at manufacture date but my distributor is offering me a williamson that does not have the 2nd steam tapping. I see many threads with only a single riser but that doesn't mean there is or is not a second tapping, just that it is not used if it exists. i also saw some kvetching about getting the plug out lately although no problem there since this one doesn't have a tapping !

    have also seen some nice twin riser headers on williamsons that obviously have the 2nd tapping.
    e.g. heres a pic from this williamson thread

    image.png


    given the number I have seen with a single riser I can only assume that the chamber is not incapable of doing a halfway decent job of steaming through a single riser but i've got a couple daze before i pull the trigger and wanted to hear anyone's experience or theory on this. also notice plenty not using drop header, as you'd expect. all the more important if single outlet could lead to more surging (that's an instinct on my part, not yet scientifically establish til you guys all give me enough anecdotes to count as statistics :- ).

    thanks, brian

  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,499

    What size are we talking about?

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 19,291

    Drop headers and extra risers are fine if you want to spend the $$.

    So I will ask the same question I always ask.

    Has anyone piped a boiler to the MFG minimum and had problems?

    ethicalpaul
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 17,039

    If it's an EG45 or smaller a single 3" is far more than enough. Not sure about the larger ones.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,034

    If you follow the manufacturer's recommendation you will be fine. They are not in the business of setting people up to fail.

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • offdutytech
    offdutytech Member Posts: 222

    I like to explain boiler choices to customers in terms of cars. (seems to work here in the motor city). You have GM the parent company of Chevy and GMC. They both have similar models One tends to be basic and one's got a little fancier trim. Both get the job done or in the case of boilers installed right will work.

    I would agree drop headers are nice, and if you install them like the directions they usually will work. The only manufacture that I'm not crazy about their install instructions would be the Utica / Dunkirk branded steam boilers with the side tappings. These boilers installed without a drop header seem to carry more water off into the system. The few of these that have been installed with a drop header don't have the issues.

    Owner of Grunaire Climate Solutions. Check us out under the locate a contractor section. Located in Detroit area.

  • archibald tuttle
    archibald tuttle Member Posts: 1,153

    @STEAM DOCTOR

    its a GSA125 which, if i have read the fine print correctly might be equivalent to a EG40? anyway, @ChrisJ it has a single tapping for steam riser, I thought it was 2 1/2 inches by eye when I saw it in the warehouse.

    now if i read the williamson threads right ,the GSA150 would be the same block with a wider burner array so delivering more BTU. williamson specs 2 1/2" riser for both GSA 125 and 150. the single riser and steam main on the existing burnham V84 is piped with a single 2" riser which is underwhelming but maybe in that minimum requirement department. I don't think there is a bushing in the tapping but there might be a second tapping. I haven't looked under the 'hood'. Even low fired as it was it seemed barely enough for 93,000 out would be around 130 feet/second at a pound although it worked without complaint. without bad noise, surging, etc.

  • STEAM DOCTOR
    STEAM DOCTOR Member Posts: 2,499

    GSA-125 definitely does not need more than one tapping. If you want to max out, you can use a single 3 inch boiler riser. More than enough.

  • dabrakeman
    dabrakeman Member Posts: 839

    The 125 should have a 2 1/2 in riser and header per manual which is quite sufficient at a steam velocity of 23 ft/s

  • archibald tuttle
    archibald tuttle Member Posts: 1,153

    @dabrakeman

    maybe i've got the wrong table. i'm getting like 96 ft/s at about 386 lbs per hour (i.e. 93,000 btu net/240) and 1 psi in 2 1/2 inch pipe which is on high side but still fits in desired range for heating systems (and 2" does show over the green range although not precipitously which is why I reckon the setup with the burnham fired at 1.05 through single 2" riser still worked OK.)



  • dabrakeman
    dabrakeman Member Posts: 839

    I'd refer you here:

    https://www.heatinghelp.com/systems-help-center/category/steam-heating/steam-velocity/

    I have my own spreadsheet and usually use specific volume associated with 1psig rather than 0psig but however you decide to calculate you should get numbers close to these.

  • archibald tuttle
    archibald tuttle Member Posts: 1,153
    edited December 4

    @dabrakeman

    hmmm. thanks for pointer to those deadmen tables by Ted Parreco (look like pdfs from maybe an excel built calculator where you could input different pressures) and the TSV calculator give identical results so I think I was maybe misreading the table I grabbed.

    so while 1 psi might be normal running I think 0 is the startup steamup conditions so maybe that is why those tables use 0. so if you don't want water at startup then the 0 design and as low as possible velocity (is it dan's venerable 15 fps??) maybe calls for less extensive near boiler piping to mitigate wet steam.

    Using the existing 2" riser, the table for 108 output on the williamson GSA-125 shows 34.5 fps which is outside the williamson recommendation (although they greenlight 33.9 fps on GSA 175 with a single 2.5 inch riser. The new GSA125 specs actually reduce the output to 103 bringing my velocity down to 32.9 fps if i kept existing riser so maybe within manufacturers spec although they don't give the nominal limit that informs the colors in the table so i'm guessing it is kind of under 34 fps. so maybe an updated table would greenlight a 2 inch riser). All that said going to 3" (which I think is the tapping size on the GSA125?) would get me below Dan's deadmen's magic 15 fps target at 0 psi. The manufacturers seem comfortable with the idea that the near boiler piping will wring out the steam since they allow for exit velocities in the 20s and even 30s but I really like the idea of keeping it relatively dry to start.

    Coming out of this burnham with a 2" single riser this system did not carry a lot of water and it does not have a drop header but it is easy enough and not too expensive with a single riser to provide some large near boiler piping.

    looking at some of @ChrisJ thoughts on another great steam velocity thread - in particular hindsight he reckoned that instead of bushing the tappings he could have used a 12" nipple of 3" and then reduced. this seems really sensible as it reduces the velocity at the steam chest exit. @KC_Jones was about going back up to 3" in the drop header with, i impute, the notion of reducing velocity to allow for dropping droplets, as it were (although I think part of the idea is to avoid picking up in the first place ;- ) and also they were talking double risers so 3" header would keep the flow about rate once joined about the same.

    So from experiential or theoretical perspective, is a 12" nipple enough to limit the effect of increased velocity where the riser reduces or should i try to stick to 3" for full height or riser and use a reducing L? I can get 2 foot 2.5 or 3 inch nipples without too much trouble and then I could use a reducer L and start threading a drop down to the existing 2" header which is maybe 20 inches above the boiler. i can't thread anything above 2"–as I imagine is true for many here –so getting back to 2" is handy for finishing the connections and the velocities involved are well below long term erosive potential. I understand most festidious and maybe elegant practice is to retain larger diameter and lower velocity in header so any wet steam into the header is more easily dried by gravity before the system take off and returning to the drip leg; but, unless the williamson has a reputation for pushing water droplets, this having done fine on single 2" riser from a burnham all these years it seems a bit like overkill to take the header up at this point, especially if reduction of velocity immediately adjacent to the boiler steam chest is acheived.

    final thought, akin to the 3" boiler take off riser and then reducing, what if I add a short (6-12") upsized nipple at the system takeoff which is vertical so the slower velocity exit would discourage carrying droplets??? this is speculative but partakes of the same general theory. ideally like a 2x3 or 2x21/2 bullhead tee but those don't look easy to come by so that's a case for just replacing the run of the drop header with larger pipe but more of a PIA since i cant thread that size. I suppose I could use a cross at the take off and tie the bottom outlet into the drip and then I wouldn't get a puddle as i would using a tee for the take off. probably overthinking, but i'd rather over think and underdo as the overthinking allows :-). i'm really hip to not bother with this or maybe try it with the 3" up leg and existing 2" and only mess with it if it manifests wet steam problems.

    and in the trying to prevent problems motif, where I do thread, I've been wiping well and then using the green automotive brake cleaner to try to reduce any oil from getting into the system although muc hlighter and seemingly evaporating don't know if i'm solving or introducing problems. and i wonder if there is any thread paste that is better or worse for creating slippery water quality in steam system?

    thanks to the deadmen and their live counterparts.

    brian


  • dabrakeman
    dabrakeman Member Posts: 839

    I have questioned myself the relationship between boiler size and the acceptability allowances in the manufacturers minimum piping specs where it is generally quite clear that most manufacturers allow higher velocities in the larger boilers than in the smaller ones. Maybe this is due to water more easily separating out in larger pipe diameters, or, it is just a matter of practicality minimizing the large piping that might be necessary with the higher btu boilers to achieve the lower targets. Maybe others have more insight on this. In general though most agree that if you meet the minimum standards set by the manufacturer you should be "OK".

    You say you have an existing 2" riser?? I guess I am confused then from the picture that seems to show a reducer elbow right now at the top of the riser suggesting either the riser is larger or the header smaller. Please clarify.

    A 3" riser with 2" header would give riser velocity of about 16ft/s and header velocity of 34ft/s. Header velocity same as GSA-175 acceptability but I can't say that would be OK for a 2" pipe vs a 2.5". I'd still recommend meeting the manufacturer velocities but if you have currently a 2.5" or 3" riser going into a 2" header with the larger boiler and "don't have a water carryover problem" then logic would say with same piping and a smaller boiler you also shouldn't have a water carryover problem…

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 17,039

    @dabrakeman

    The closer the top of the water is to the steam tappings, the more likely it'll be to pull water up into them.

    I could only guess the larger boilers have more distance between the top of the block and the normal water level.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    dabrakeman
  • dabrakeman
    dabrakeman Member Posts: 839

    Agree, if indeed there is more vertical space and we would have to assume water of same purity shouldn't boil any more violently (vertical displacement) in a bigger boiler than a smaller one then this could be some of the explanation.

    ethicalpaul
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,034

    My advice is forget about the concern of "droplets" or so-called "wet steam". All the steam our boilers make is Wet Steam, meaning it is at the verge of turning back into water.

    The droplets fall out of the steam very quickly and hit the interior walls of the pipes. You all know that I've seen it.

    What most people are calling "wet steam" is what I call "the boiler throwing gallons of water into the mains"

    I suggest dropping the term "wet steam" and replace it with "surging" "priming" or "boiler vomiting water into the main"

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 17,039
    edited December 6

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,034

    It has lots of names, I'm just trying to get rid of the one that is fuzzy, misleading, and misunderstood

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 19,291

    I am partial to the vomiting part. Then you know for sure its a bad boiler.

    ethicalpaul
  • archibald tuttle
    archibald tuttle Member Posts: 1,153

    @dabrakeman sorry, i posted a sample pic of a double header . . . eer riser . . . williamson that i think you mistook for the job i'm working on. I didn't have an pictures but when I was over there today building a derrick in the stairs to hoist the new one in and the old one out i grabbed a couple snaps and took a longer look. i'm going to definitely do a 3x24 inch riser to a drop header. its just a question of where i downsize. it's big money to stay in 3" and this setup worked fine. If I'm doing the 3" at the boiler exit, I'm thinkin i'm likely to just hit a reducing el top of the riser and build the drop header of 2" cause I can thread it or use nipples i normally stock.

    and you notice in the back shot there is drop to the harford loop which isn't even all of a couple feet long. unless the weight of the water in that 'trap' is some utility for stable operation, why would there be a drop loop, why not just a return without a trap is high in the boiler water line so it wouldn't drain the boiler if it failed.

    bad burnham.jpg back bad burnham.jpg