Copper to Pex in hydronic heating for DIY

Moving heating pipes, without knowing what you're doing, can make your life miserable

Nothing will be cheap in Woburn.

Hi, I'll just throw out there that learning to "sweat" copper really is not that difficult. Here's a video from the CDA showing how: https://copper.org/applications/doityourself/#podcast68854 I'll add that much of what they give applies more to bigger pipe and fittings. Smaller sizes are quicker and easier. Every plumber has their preferences, but I like C flux as it turns dark when it's time to apply the solder. I only use mapp gas also. You can back the torch away from the pipe to quickly control the amount of heating. It's important to thoroughly clean flux off the joint when finished. I keep a spray bottle with water in it to both wet nearby surfaces and to help with rinsing off the flux. Practice on a few joints first, and you might be surprised by how easy the process is.

Yours, Larry

after you solder them and they cool down heat them back up and take them apart you will see where the solder flowed .

1. clean the fittings good with sand cloth, scotchbrite and or cleaning brushes. For the fittings I buy a cleaning brush and cut the handle off. Chuck the brush in a drill. It makes very quick work of cleaning the fittings
2. Controlling the heat is the key. Its better to start with to little heat you don't want to overheat the fittings.
3. clean the tubing with sand cloth or scotchbrite
4. apply flux to the end of the tube. just a thin film

Practice makes perfect. Most say for 1/2" tubing use 1/2" of solder, 1" tubing 1" of solder etc. a little more is ok. You want the solder to flow so pull the heat away when the solder starts to flow, you can reheat if needed.

The solder follows the heat and you want the solder to pull in so with a coupling you would aplpy the heat to the center of the coupling with an elbow you apply the heat to where the end of the tube is inside the fitting.

Doing the bottom of a fitting on a vertical pipe is a little more difficult. Kepp the heat higher on the fitting to pull the solder up. Use minimal heat. Don't heat the pipe below the fitting or the solder will fall out of the joint and flow down.

After soldering have a dry rag to wipe the excess solder off. Do this gently to not disturb the joint.

It sound more difficult than it is. With a little practice you will be fine. Water in the pipe is your enemy.

@EBEBRATT-Ed you can buy fitting brushes with a hex shaft that fits in an impact driver or drill now, don't have to cut apart one with a handle.

https://www.sharkbite.com/us/en/resources/blog/service-and-repair/fitting-tips-and-guides/3-myths-about-using-sharkbite-behind-the-wall-and-underground

In my opinion, you, as a first time pipe-sweater, have a far far greater chance of permanent success with sharkbites than you do with a torch.

I didn't check other areas, but in New Jersey galvanized pipe is allowed within the home, but not for a water service. I'm not sure why anyone would use it, but, you can. Even in a brand new house. At least in NJ.

I tried to look for Orangeburg for soil pipe, but I don't know it's real name. Best I can tell, there's absolutely no mention of Orangeburg, fiber tube, or anything remotely similar in NJ's code. Probably because the stuff disappeared 50 years ago because of how wonderful it was.

Orangeburg for water distribution or service? Under pressure?

Wasn't that strictly for drains etc?

Isn't orangeburg just clay tile used for drainage?

Ok I have seen that as well tough to cut

You posted charts for water distribution and water service, not waste.

Or, did you check the waste / soil pipe section for that and just not share it because it wasn't there anyway?

I worked with Orangeburg pipe when I was young, cut it with a hatchet! Basically cardboard and tar.

Started in Orangeburg, NY!

I don't recall it being used form potable water use? Or any pressure? It didn't have much of a coupling feature.

All piping materials have a weakness. With galvanized, softened water, for one, can be too aggressive., attack starts at the threads, fittings and pipe, where the galvanizing has been removed.

Water + bare steel= rust and corrosion.

Both press fittings and grip fittings depend on an o-ring for the permanent seal. If that frightens anyone then sweat, braze, thread, copper glue :), compression, flare are other options.