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RobinInCali
RobinInCali Member Posts: 56
edited March 17 in THE MAIN WALL

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  • RobinInCali
    RobinInCali Member Posts: 56
    edited March 17
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 2,204
    edited March 2025
    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,501

    you should be able to drill and re-tap thise vent ports. You may need to go a size larger

    You can get 1/4 & 3/8 sizes

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    delcrossv
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 2,204

    Drill and re-tap is the standard procedure for this.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    bburd
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,850
    edited March 2025

    Wait…is that 1/8" port in the upper left of your photo that looks like it was hit with a torch the place where the vent was? Ignore my irrelevant question, thank you!

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • Long Beach Ed
    Long Beach Ed Member Posts: 1,843
    edited March 2025

    If this is steam, there should be a boss half way up the middle column that can be drilled or a plug there that can be removed. The top one is for venting air from a hot water radiator.

    That, too can be drilled out by any competent mechanic. You use a center punch first to guide your drill.

    Mad Dog_2
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 7,466
    Screenshot_20250304_195240_Samsung Internet.jpg

    The drilling is way off center, but shouldn't there be an existing opening to work with? That looks solid.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,890

    i can't tell, the pic isn't high enough resolution. it could be the screw part of the vent broken off in the body of the vent.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,501

    the vents are usually brass, so hit that with a file or small grinder to flatten it then center punch

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    techforlife
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 7,083
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1846756#Comment_1846756

    From the 1st picture it looks like brazing rod and burn marks from heating with a torch!

    ethicalpaul
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,850
    edited March 2025
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1846713#Comment_1846713

    Anyway @RobinInCali the reason I was asking is that's the wrong location for a vent if that's where it was. There should be a port that is about 2/3 down on that side (possibly both sides) Ignore my irrelevant comment, thank you!

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 16,890
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1846843#Comment_1846843

    This is hot water. It is the right location for the bleeder/vent.

    ethicalpaul
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 8,850

    Well don't I feel dumb! Thanks @mattmia2

    NJ Steam Homeowner.
    See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el

    reggi
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 17,409

    I would use a grinder / dremel and grind that surface as flat as I could get it, then center punch / drill it.

    You need to be a little delicate because you don't want to crack the cast iron.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    mattmia2delcrossvtechforlife

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