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New boiler on gravity system

jakamini
jakamini Member Posts: 16

Hello my old boiler from the 30s I think finally died. I now have a crown boiler with a circulator pump and aqua stat with high and low settings. The way everything is set up now is overheating my house. The low setting on the aqua stat is set at 125 so every time the water reaches that temperature the boiler fires for about 5 minutes. The circulating pump is always on. My thermostat is set at 60 right now and the house temperature by the end of the day reaches 70-72. I have to turn off the boiler switch every night so we are not roasting in bed. I have cast iron radiators that hold heat very well. I have 2 questions 1 should the pump always be on or is it only supposed to be on when the thermostat calls for heat. The other is should I just turn off the low setting on the aquastat so the water is only heating when the thermostat calls for heat. The aqua stat is a hydrostat 3250 plus. Thanks for any info

Comments

  • jesmed1
    jesmed1 Member Posts: 964
    edited February 10

    Where does your hot water for kitchen sink and bathroom come from? It sounds like you have a domestic hot water coil installed in the boiler, which would explain the 125 minimum aquastat setting.

    But your circulator shouldn't be running all the time. It should only be running when the thermostat calls for heat.

  • jakamini
    jakamini Member Posts: 16

    separate hot water heater

  • PeteA
    PeteA Member Posts: 230

    @jakamini

    some picture from around your system is really helpful. Make sure to get enough pictures to show all the way around the boiler and the controls and piping, should be about 4-6 photos standing back 4-5 feet from boiler.

  • jakamini
    jakamini Member Posts: 16

    ok thanks will get some pictures when I get home from work

    PeteA
  • jesmed1
    jesmed1 Member Posts: 964

    Are you sure the "separate" water heater has its own heat source (like gas or electric) and isn't an "indirect" tank that gets heated water from the boiler?

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,530

    Whatever the hot water source — the thermostat should turn the circulator on and off. It shouldn't be on all the time. And the aquastat will turn the boiler on and off as needed.

    Something isn't wired up properly.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • jakamini
    jakamini Member Posts: 16

    ok the plumber temporarily wired it so I would have heat. Electrician should be coming tomorrow to install a new wire from the shut off switch and I will have him check all wiring

  • jakamini
    jakamini Member Posts: 16

    Yes it’s a gas hot water heater. My boiler is oil fired

  • Kaos
    Kaos Member Posts: 457

    Check if your boiler controls allow for a heat purge after shutdown, if not the electrician can add an off programmable off delay timer. You want to keep the pump on until the boiler cools down after each firing, this gets you a couple % of extra efficiency for free.

    jakamini
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,130

    In your case the circulator should not be running when the thermostat is not calling for heat

    mattmia2jakamini
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,610

    Did you call the person that installed it? They might have missed a few things while they were trying to get the heat back on like setting it as cold start. Note that on a converted gravity system, unless it has a flow check at the boiler, if it is set up warm start it is very likely to heat the system through gravity flow even if the circulator isn't running. Set the low setting to not fire the boiler.

    jakamini
  • jakamini
    jakamini Member Posts: 16
  • jakamini
    jakamini Member Posts: 16

    I will call him tomorrow morning thanks. I was thinking the same thing. Between the pump going and the boiler firing so often I’m burning a ton of fuel

  • kcopp
    kcopp Member Posts: 4,513

    That not the way I would have gone about piping that system.

    Typically you try to mimic the flow rate. That looks like a 0010 on the piping.

    Im not even sure there is any boiler protection there.

    Systems Help Center - In category Hot-Water Heating

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,610

    i think i see a bypass in the back left. nice to have balancing valves between the mains, can't see if those are there or not. piping is probably bigger than it needs to be.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 24,332

    I don’t see any air purger? Also have him support the expansion tank a bit more.

    When it fires from a cold start, time how long it takes to get the return to the boiler to 130F. You want that to happen within 10 minutes, ideally

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • jakamini
    jakamini Member Posts: 16
  • jakamini
    jakamini Member Posts: 16

    where would the purger be located? It doesn’t fire from a cold start the low setting on aqua stat is 130.

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 24,332

    an air purger would be best right at the boiler on the supply piping. For best heat transfer in the boiler, and in the radiators you want a completely air free system, micro bubbles and big bubbles.

    Most often the boiler fires only when a thermostat call for heat. It would drop to room temperature if it is off for periods of time.

    If it is running all the time, maintaining 130f, you may be wasting some fuel dollars up the flue.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • kcopp
    kcopp Member Posts: 4,513

    I bet he is using the boiler aquastat as a low limit to help prevent the boiler from condensing. Not ideal but it will help. Thats better than nothing.

    That may also explain the ghost flow out to the system and the overheating… especially w/ the cast iron rads.

    hot_rod
  • jakamini
    jakamini Member Posts: 16
  • neilc
    neilc Member Posts: 2,976

    the brass on the left is your backflow prevention and reduced pressure fill valve,

    the brass on the right is an auto air vent, let us see how it's piped to that riser, where it should be piped on the top where that cap is, the boiler itself has a baffle under there and sends air up that riser,

    let's see a wider view floor to ceiling showing circs, another air sep might be hiding

    known to beat dead horses