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New Century House with Two Pipe Steam - Questions

Hedwig595
Hedwig595 Member Posts: 19
edited January 27 in Strictly Steam

Hi everyone, we just finished moving in to our 1915 house and it looks like it has a two pipe steam system, with a vaporstat on a Weil McLain coal boiler converted to natural gas.

We currently have about 7 out of 18 radiators heating up. I’ve read 90% of “We Got Steam Heat” so far and I’m excited to learn more about this system and get it working well again!

Right now my thoughts on diagnosis are that there is either lots of air in the system OR I have a LOT of failed steam traps at each radiator. I’ve done some cursory searching and cannot find any main vents on the system (could they be higher up like in the attic?), unless they are those paint covered monstrosities that seem to be the hangers holding up one of the pipes attached to the wall.

I’d love some help learning more about the system and how to care for it, and if anyone has any recommendations for maintenance providers in Syracuse, NY, I’m all ears. I’ve taken a bunch of pictures and can take more if needed. Thanks in advance!!

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Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780

    What trim is on the radiators? Looks like it is some sort of vapor system with traps. also doesn't look 1914, like maybe they added central heat in the 20's or 30's and that i the original boiler. Do the radiators have metering valves on the supply? Do they have taps or some sort of return device or a plain elbow on the return?

    Radiators not heating is usually either returns that can't vent because of things like failed closed crossover traps or trapped condensate or steam in the returns from steam blowing through radiators or failed open traps or return connections above the water line (although that is unlikely here since it seems to be the original boiler)

    It could be a main has sagged and is trapping condensate keeping that main from heating but that is not super likely here unless something was changed.

    We need to see a radiator to tell you where to look.

  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,352

    You need to graduate up to "The Lost Art of Steam Heating….Revisited".

    It will most likely have a better description of your system concerning piping around the boiler.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,233

    It's a vapor system. You need the LAOSH as @jughne mentioned.

    You have steam traps. No air vents needed except near the boiler probably on top of the "canned ham" boiler return trap.

    mattmia2
  • Hedwig595
    Hedwig595 Member Posts: 19

    Thanks for the replies!! LAOSHR on order, and I believe most of the rads have metering valves on the supplies and the traps are a variety of Hoffman 17C, Warren Webster & Co 712 HB, and Barnes and Jones ( @mattmia2 new pics included here and I updated the original post with radiator pics right after posting as I forgot them initially).

    @EBEBRATT-Ed , is the “canned ham” return trap the white one below?

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,918
    edited January 27

    You have the correct metering valves on your radiators. The canned ham @EBEBRATT-Ed refers to is the black barnes and jones return trap with the sight glass. This:

    Also, what's with the top pipe here? Is there a plug in the end?

    Are the 7 non heating rads on the same main, or randomly distrubuted?

    Lastly, how long does it take the good rads to heat?

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    Intplm.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780
    edited January 27

    Sylphon vapor system.

    CLambdelcrossv
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780

    Do the radiators that do heat have that extra nipple and elbow on the hot water vent tapping on the radiators?

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780

    Actually I think that one with the nipples and ells is maybe some sort of humidifier and those are connected to the trough on top.

    ethicalpaul
  • Grallert
    Grallert Member Posts: 911
    edited January 27

    @delcrossv "Also, what's with the top pipe here? Is there a plug in the end?" If I had to guess I'd say that was a humidifier and a boot dryer/warmer. The pipe would be a drain so ti didn't over flow onto the radiator. Just a guess as I've never seen one like it.

    Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver

    delcrossv
  • Hedwig595
    Hedwig595 Member Posts: 19

    Thanks @mattmia2 and @delcrossv! So, no that extra nipple and elbow is only on that one radiator (which is one of 3 in the living room and they all get warm but not hot). We have about 7-8 radiators that heat out of a total of 19. Here's the breakdown:

    Basement

    1 ceiling mounted rad that gets pretty consistently warm. I've followed the steam pipes to the copper that connects to the kitchen rads and pretty much at the connection, the heat dissipates and the pipes go cold (I'm assuming thats an air blockage)

    First Floor

    8 total, 3 in living room get warm, one in hallway and one in bathroom work really well. In the kitchen one traditional style radiator gets warm but not all the way across, and a burnham cast iron baseboard doesn't heat at all — both in the kitchen are plumbed with copper pipes.

    Second floor

    6 total, with 2 getting slightly warm but not all the way across

    Third Floor/Attic

    4 total with 2 getting warm but not all the way across

    Most of the valves are stuck, seemingly in the open position, while 2-3 are missing handles altogether. Would it be prudent to use WD-40 to try to unstick the valves?

    Also, is there (or should there be) a vent on top of that black barnes & jones condensate trap? The sight-glass on that trap is completely full.

  • Hedwig595
    Hedwig595 Member Posts: 19

    Yep, looks like that might’ve been it! Here are some closer pictures of it.

    delcrossv
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780

    Try googling Sylphon system and see if you can find the other posts on here about this system. I'm not sure what that return trap is supposed to do. Maybe someone that knows how they work will reply here. Not sure if it is in TLOSH.

    Hedwig595
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,918
    edited January 27

    You can try some penetrating oil on those valves. Take it easy to try turning them.

    Take care with them, new regulating valves are very expensive.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    Hedwig595
  • Hedwig595
    Hedwig595 Member Posts: 19

    Sounds like a plan @delcrossv, good summer project. And I'll look up the Sylphon System @mattmia2! In the meantime I did some research on the Barnes and Jones Condensator, and in its instruction manual I found, the vent trap needs to be plumbed in to the dry return before the condensator. That led me to the white bucket looking thing which indeed does seem to be the Barnes and Jones Vent Trap No. 2. I've never heard this working and I assume it has failed and keeping all the air stuck in the lines! This is what mine looks like:

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,918
    edited January 27

    That's your vent.

    As you're not running under vacuum anymore, you can remove ( AND SAVE) that little black ball. See if it vents air with the ball removed.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • Hedwig595
    Hedwig595 Member Posts: 19

    @delcrossv after much fiddling, the black ball is out! and as I was fiddling I did hear the hiss of air venting. With the ball out it seems like the vent IS venting just very very verrrry gently. If I hold my hand over it, it builds up pressure and is a bit more forceful. I'm assuming that might be normal since we're operating on ounces of pressure though?

    I'll leave that ball out for now and see what changes with the rads. Is it possible (once everything is running better) to get back to running under vacuum?

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780

    It depends how tight the system is. If it is relatively leak free it can draw a vacuum but that is the least of your current problems.

    There should be those vent traps at the end of each main and they all need to work. There also needs to be a way for the returns to vent because that is how the radiators vent. If it isn't venting it may compress the air enough to allow some steam in to some of the radiators.

    delcrossv
  • KarlW
    KarlW Member Posts: 182

    @Hedwig595 I do have some bad news - as near as I can tell, there isn't a true and knowledgeable residential steam mechanic north of Westchester, and most certainly not in Central or Western NY (where I own a 1920 two-pipe steam system in Rochester). If you find one, please DM me as I'd pay the extra 3 hours of (round-trip) travel time for some of my jobs.

    The best I've been able to do is find a good (hydronic) boiler mechanic not afraid to work on cast iron pipe and who can maintain boilers. I hope like me you are technically minded so you can properly direct workers to keep your system up to date.

    I'm also surprised no one has mentioned it, but the best thing I did was replace all the steam traps - some were new traps, and others were replacement inserts.

    Hedwig595
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,619

    @Hedwig595 , when you get a chance, could you get a close-up of the name on that radiator with the built-in humidifier? I don't think we've seen one of these before.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    mattmia2
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,233

    The boiler return trap is in the LAOSH. The alternating return trap puts water back in the boiler when you don't have enough stacking height for the condensate to return.

    It is basically a steam powered condensate pump.

    mattmia2delcrossvHedwig595
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,624

    Wow. Just wow. Not only is it a vapour system — and an early one — but everything is still more or less there! You must get LAOSH, and you will find your system, or at least the basics for it, in there.

    I would suggest, in this order:

    First, check all the traps. Any radiator which isn't heating the trap is suspect. If you find a radiator where the outlet from the trap is close to steam hot, that one is suspect too. Replace any traps which you even think are bad. Both Tunstall and Barnes & Jones make innards to fit them.

    Second, you can try to get the valves to move — and WD-40 is as good as anything — but if the don't, don't fret it. If the traps are working they are in the nice to have but not critical category.

    Third, buy a good low pressure pressure gauge — to 0 to 3 psig — and figure out where to put it. And put it. Best bet is going to be to put it on a T off of whatever pipe connects the vapourstat (which is set properly, by the way) to the boiler. Clean out that connection which you are at it. That will tell you what pressure you are really at, at which point you decide whether the vapourstat need to be replaed.

    Now. Take a deep breath and find you system, or one as like it as you can, in LAOSH and study it. Go down to the basement and study the piping. Go back and study the diagram and texts some more. Until you begin to think you know how that thing worked.

    You are going to be the expert on it, so take some time to really be the expert!

    Don't do ANYTHING other than those three steps above until you are feeling pretty good about the system. Then work on bringing it back to its former glory.

    One further thougth. That boiler. What condition is it in? If it's in good shape, leave it for the time being. Yes it is using more fuel that a new one might. But… for now leave it. However, when you do have to replace it, take care: the water line on that boiler is quite high off the floor, and you must match that water line with any new boiler — which may put it on something of a pedestal. Do it.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    mattmia2Hedwig595Intplm.
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,918
    edited January 28

    Good advice. With the exception of the later installed cast baseboard, I'd suspect bad traps for the non heating rads.

    You'll need exact info off the trap body to get the correct elements. You'll want to get a 6 point socket and a breaker bar to get them open. Remember: one wrench on the cap, one on the body. You REALLY don't want to stress those return pipes.

    That boiler will probably outlast us all.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    Hedwig595
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780
    edited January 28

    If it is set up right the traps on the emitters should never close. The traps on the mains have to be working. The traps on the returns may or may not close depending on exactly how the return trap works.

    It looks like very little has been done to this system since it was installed so things that don't work are likely parts that need to be serviced rather than things that are wrong.

    delcrossv
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,918
    edited January 28

    @mattmia2 seems their vent trap is venting air. If some rads are heating and others not on the same main, I'd suspect the traps on the rads. (Or the valves are closed)

    I'm curious as to what changed after they took out the vacuum ball.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,624

    A furtherthouht on traps. Up there I said "replace them". I should have said "replace the innards". They're all replaceable, and it is much better to just do the innards rather than replacing the whole thing. A lot easier, too.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    delcrossvIntplm.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780

    If there are problems with the crossover traps there could be steam in the returns causing some of the emitters to not be able to vent. Or if the return trap depends on pushing some steam in to the return and pressurizing it, if the vent or trap on the return isn't closing then that could also fill the returns with steam.

    Are the returns steam hot like the mains?

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780

    I'm not sure what these are. If they are a vent that has been sealed up with stucco or if they are even part of the heating system.

    delcrossvIntplm.
  • Hedwig595
    Hedwig595 Member Posts: 19

    Ah I love that we’ve got a potentially unique radiator! Unfortunately I couldn’t find any name on it, but here are a bunch of closer up pictures. I believe the text on the lower left of each section says “Patent Appl’d For.” I couldn’t find any marks anywhere else, but happy to look further if there are any specific areas I should check!

    It does look like at some point the idea was to have the top trough hooked up to water, an input on the left and output on the right of the radiator.

    mattmia2
  • KarlW
    KarlW Member Posts: 182

    This is only true to a point - the original traps in my house (Illinois Series G) had a diaphragm innard that allowed it to operate with the outlet vertical or horizontal. I discovered that the replacement only allows for vertical outlets - I have a radiator in my bathroom I need to get a new horizontal 90-degree angle trap for still.

  • Hedwig595
    Hedwig595 Member Posts: 19

    Thanks @Jamie Hall, its super exciting to hear that the system is an early one and still mostly intact. I'm excited to start learning about this stuff and I plan to take my time and become the expert like you said! It sure looks like I have a lot of trap rebuilds in my future.

    For the low pressure gauge, do you mean install a T on the pigtail that goes to the Vaporstat, and then reinstall the vaporstat and pressure gauge on either side of that T?

    The boiler (as far as I can tell) seems to be in good condition, but I haven't done a blow down yet — should I? The water in the sight glass is slightly below a marker line on the glass, and it bounces when the boiler is firing.

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,918

    A little bounce (about an inch or less) is fine.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
  • Hedwig595
    Hedwig595 Member Posts: 19

    So, I turned the temp up to 67 (usually at 64/65) to let the boiler run a bit and try to create a bunch of steam to push more air out of the system after I took the vacuum ball out. It definitely got the first floor very warm, but still most radiators were not heating.

    The baseboard base-ray in the kitchen did finally START to get hot but it only went about 1/8th of the way across the unit.

    If I put my ear by the vent trap I took the vacuum ball out of I can't hear any air being pushed out, but if I cover it with my hand for ~20 seconds, I feel a little pressure and when I remove my hand there is a hiss of air that dissipates pretty quickly to nothing. I'm wondering if it might be that most of the traps on the radiators need to be serviced/rebuilt.

    The Barnes and Jones Vent Trap #2 on the return (the one I took the ball out of) is the only vent I can find on the system.

    @mattmia2 the returns are not steam hot, but I did find a whole stretch of main piping through the basement that is missing insulation — The baseray and a few other rads come off that section, so I'm not sure if that could be enough to condense the steam before it got to the base-ray.

  • Hedwig595
    Hedwig595 Member Posts: 19

    I honestly think these are just "pipe hangers," basically a sideways L drilled into the wall and then connected into something holding the pipe.

  • AdmiralYoda
    AdmiralYoda Member Posts: 713
    edited January 28

    I doubt you'll find a steam pro out in your neck of the woods but it might be a good idea to get a tech there just to do the basics like clean the boiler burn tubes, adjust the flame and do a combustion analysis.

    For everything else, I'd learn to do on my own like making sure your safety circuits are in good operating condition, etc.

    And when they tell you that your boiler needs to be replaced….don't believe them. Your existing boiler will heat just as well as a brand new replacement. The only thing a new, properly sized boiler will do is save you some money as it will likely be more efficient.

    You should definitely be doing blowdowns as you have a float type LWCO. When the boiler is running, open the drain valve and verify the boiler shuts down. Also you may want to consider disassembling the LWCO and give it a good cleaning as it is probably full of crud.

    delcrossv
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780

    Might want to open the fill valve and bring it up to the mark to make sure all that works before you do the blow down.

    The returns have to vent somehow because that is how the radiators vent. It likely is through one of those devices at the boiler.

  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 1,918
    edited January 28

    Also you may want to consider disassembling the LWCO and give it a good cleaning as it is probably full of crud.

    Another springtime job.

    Just adding my caution to @AdmiralYoda . Beware unscrupulous "boiler salesmen" posing as techs.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    Hedwig595
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780

    This is a heat exchanger for the water heater which looks like it has been abandoned.

    Hedwig595
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 11,780

    Where does this pipe go:

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 25,624

    That radiator! That trough on the top was for water. Probably did have a connection at one time to a water supply and just maybe a drain. The idea was to have it provide extra humidity to the room.

    Ingenious…

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    Hedwig595delcrossv
  • Hedwig595
    Hedwig595 Member Posts: 19

    That pipe runs back to a return pipe connected to the vent trap (I’m assuming all eh returns because they’re above the water line). I tried to trace it in these photos.