I need a new tank due to rot. Is Roth the way to go?

I had a 275 roth w hood installed outside a little over a year ago. Installed a concrete pad instead of lintels. To protect the oil line I installed it in liquid tite conduit from tank to just inside basement wall. The conduit also protects the line from rubbing as it passes through the block wall. No problems w the tank except every so often hand tighten large nuts that hold fill tube, vent tube, etc. I would add a bottle of Hot 4 in 1 before each fill if in a cold climate to prevent gelling and a tiger loop to help warm up incoming oil.

Yes, I live outside Philadelphia so it isn't super cold but has been down to 9 degrees this winter and the tiger loop w filter plus an extra line loop has warmed the incoming oil.

I'll be the devils advocate here. I would pour a concrete pad and install a conventional 275 gallon steel tank with bottom draw. I am not a fan of top draw and especially when it is outside. The key is to paint the tank (they only come primed) and put a shed roof over it. It will last for years like this and you won't ever have an issue from the top draw. The tigerloop ultra with the filter should still get mounted at the burner.

Yes get a Roth with a lid or any of the HDPE tanks. Tigerloop and you're all set.

@pecmsg To avoid having to use a top draw, I'm ok with the steel tank lasting for over 20 years. Having a poly tank does not outweigh the negatives of a top draw in my eyes.

I did the same as @Miata . Roth 1000L on a poured slab. Sleeved a 1/2" coated oil line though 3/4" flexible conduit (Sealtight) to a Tiger Loop Ultra. I add fuel treatment at every delivery. Never a problem except I had to replace the tank gauge last week.

I'm with @yellowdog on this one. If the steel tank is in a location where you can see it, a leak will be noticed. 20 years? Cedric's is going on for 40. It's tested (ultrasound) yearly by my oil dealer, who is a bit of a stickler for that. It was, once upon a time, a top feed, but… for a variety of reasons that got changed.

I really like Roth & Highland tanks...pick of the little. Mad Dog

AFAIK the standard warranty is only 10 years on the Highland tanks. They do offer 30 years for extra money.

No idea how they compare price wise to the Roth. The Roth are popular, and they only do overhead lines for them. Make sure you are getting a Tigerloop with your install, most installers include that in the price here in Southern MA.

Testing will not prevent a leak from happening. That should be obvious. What it will do is give you some idea as to the wastage of the tank metal from corrosion; when several random test spots on the bottom get down to half the original thickness or so, it's time for a new tank.

And it would be extremely rare for tank to fail catastrophically. Drip drip drip is more llike it. Which is not to say it can't happen — but it's usually the result of being filled much too rapidly, thus pressurizing it.

P.S. Asphalt roof warranties reduce payment over time in contract for wear & tear , stated in warranty

Just sayin, but its never mentioned kin posts about oil tanks on this site

@Jamie Hall

 but it's usually the result of being filled much too rapidly, thus pressurizing it.

I have a profound interest in this statement. One house has two tanks………….2" fill to tank #1…………spill to tank #2………..1.5" vent from tank #2.

All the calculations show that the 1.5" vent can easily pass 8 CFM with negligible pressure drop across 15 feet. This easily accommodates the fuel delivery at 60 GPM.

That being said………….the 35 year old tank #1 failed last year…………so I am in a bit of a quandry whether the typical 275 Granby can handle a very minor pressure increase during a fill. I have instructed the company to slow fill above 200 gallons due to the quandry.

The question is the resistance of the whistle. There I have a real concern. If you observe the whistle after fuel stops from the truck, it continues for at least 5 seconds.

I'm tempted to put a gauge on tank #1 and see what occurs during a delivery unless I can get some data on the resistance of the whistle at 8 CFM.

Not checked. But is is still sitting on the side of the house waiting for me.😁

What's your thoughts on the pressure increase in the tanks due to the whistle?

A tank warranty is not much help if there is an oil leak. It would cover the replacement cost of the tank, which is in all likelihood unpleasant, but survivable. What you really need is a cleanup insurance.
Environmental cleanup can be extremely expensive. In addition to their tank warranty, Roth includes a 2 million $ policy, covering cleanup costs.

Alternatively (at least in MA) you can get a rider to your homeowners policy for this. I have not come across
anybody who has such a policy, and suffered and environmental cleanup, AFAIK most people dont have any coverage.

This is a horrible and expensive idea for a home heating oil tank

On the insurance aspect. Yes indeed, a full scale oil spill cleanup is expensive. I know. I've done quite a number of them…

Which is a major advantage to having a contractual relationship with a reliable oil supplier who checks tanks. And has spill or leak cleanup insurance. Any of the larger ones should. Now… they don't always, so it's worth noting about the company. I would point out that they aren't doing it so much as to cover you (although if they leak check the tank they will — if they don't, they won't) as to cover themselves. Or haven't you contemplated the consequences of a tank truck with. let's say 5,000 gallons of number 2 having an accident?… or one of their own main storage tanks leaking?

@LRCCBJ

Oil truck pumps generally have a gauge at the meter and they usually put out 80psi at the meter. I agree there is a large pressure drop through 100 feet of hose.

If you have ever been in a basement when a 275 is being filled the is still a lot of pressure going into a sheet metal tank.

MA required a 2" fill and an 1 1/4" vent for years and there were no issues. Crossovers can cause issues. MA required each tank to have there own fill and multiple tanks could be common vented to the 1 1/4 vent.

Now they want the fill and the vent the same size which is stupid. Now you are legal with a 1 1/4 fill and vent. A smaller fill make the oil foam more with the higher velocity. As @Jamie Hall said and I know this from having delivered oil the whistle keeps going for a while after the fill is shut off. That in itself proves that some pressure even if minimal is still being vented from the tank.

With a cross over the first tank is subjected to hydraulic pressure as oil (not air) is forced through the cross over. I think it is a poor idea.

Re: Oil vendors carrying liability insurance to cover cleanup cost. I think they carry this (if they do) to cover themselves when a spill is clearly their fault. For example, a tank filling inlet that is not hooked up to a tank.
(in which case they would just dump oil into your basement).

I find it hard to imagine they would carry an expensive policy to cover their customers. If you have a tank that leaks, they could argue that had nothing to do with them, so it is on you.

If they inspect and certify your tank, then maybe. In such case I would carefully read the policy for exceptions and jump-outs. I would expect their insurance co. to vigorously try to get out of any such costly liability.

In a state that mandates insurance companies to provide cleanup coverage (if you ask for it),
I would use such inspection report or cert to get a cleanup rider from my own insurance company.

Cannot disagree. The question that begs is how much is the first tank pressurized? I think I am going to cobble up a gauge to determine.

oh quite! Hence the comment about getting a new tank when you find 50% wastage on the old one!