When I had my gas boiler replaced in 2016, the 110 VAC single pole switch that supplies power to the furnace was malfunctioning. Probably because it was 36 years old and in a damp and dusty utility room and was rarely used in its service life. Nevertheless, the plumber got a replacement single pole switch and replaced it. Of course he messed up the wiring because the box had extra wires in it and he got confused. He assumed it was a simple box with the load and line wiring and that's it. But it turns out my house has 2 switches to turn off the furnace. One is upstairs in a foyer. The other is right next to the furnace (the switch I'm talking about that he replaced).
So he got it wired to properly switch power to the boiler, but the upstairs switch became useless and now I want to fix it.
I haven't opened both switch boxes yet, but since the original switch was a single pole switch and not a 3-way, I'm assuming the builder who built this house put these 2 switches in a sequence so that both need to be in the on position for the furnace to get power.
So assuming where the line power is, this is how I plan on wiring the 2 switches with the furnace. First, if the line power is coming into the upstairs switch, then I will wire the sequence like this:

However, if the line power is coming into the downstairs switch (which I think it is) I will wire the sequence like this:

My questions to this community are:
1) Is it normal to have two switches on a boiler circuit setup with two single-pole switches in sequence? Why don't they use 3-way wiring? Code? The house was new construction in 1980 in northern New Jersey if you're wondering.
2) If my wiring diagrams are sound, I have two low voltage transformers to wire into that downstairs switch box. The thermostat transformer and a doorbell transformer. What are my options on wiring them in this following diagram:

Ideally I would like the thermostat transformer to shut off with the boiler. But I'd like the doorbell transformer to stay on. If that's not possible, then it's ok for the doorbell transformer to shut off with the boiler and everything else.
Thanks for your help in advance!
Comments
You don't want to use 3 ways. Someone could be working on the boiler and the person upstairs could start it up causing a dangerous situation
I would mount the boiler transformer on the boiler itself. It's probably easier than on the service switch unless the switch is on the boiler. Killing this transformer with the service switch is ok.
I would find a different circuit to put the doorbell transformer on. That way you will always have door bells. No need for a switch to shut that transformer off it can be live all the time. Just open the circuit breaker or pull the fuse to work on it
A 3-way switch would be able to have power to the boiler with both switches in the down position and both switches in the up position. That doesn't sound like it's something code would want for "emergency shut off" switches that are explicitly labeled by direction with these plates:
Safeties are always wired in series. You can't do a 3 way as someone could be working on the unit at the unit with the switch shut off, and somewhere else in the house, someone could flip the switch back on. Dangerous at best, deadly at worse.
You need a disconnect at the boiler to be within reach for the tech.
You need another disconnect outside the room of the boiler, in case of emergency (fire, sparking, etc.) you don't have to go to the boiler to shut it off.
And now that you touched it, you probably need a thermal disconnect above the boiler on the ceiling, also wired in series.
So 3 in series.
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.
Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
He didn't even diagnose the original malfunction correctly. His boss came and diagnosed it after he fried 2 brand new control boards on the new furnace from the arcing.
I didn't know he was problematic until he blew the 2 control boards. Then I had to get involved and micromanage his work (which no homeowner wants to do). That install had so many issues:
1) Two brand new control boards fried due to the arcing switch. I had to wait for two FedEx overnight's from Slant-Fin. One was over a weekend. It was February in New Jersey. The owner had to lend me some space heaters. The 3rd control board is in that new boiler.
2) He installed the water pump backwards. The zones were doing hard water hammers when the zone valves shut off. I had to call him back and get him to reverse the water pump to the proper direction.
3) The topic of this forum. He messed up the original builder's wiring of the two sequence switches. My doorbell was offline. After we got the doorbell back online and had the boiler switch working, I let him go. I didn't want him doing any more damage. I knew I would fix those switches myself.
4) The switch arcing burnt out both of my thermostats. He tried to charge me for replacement ones. He had tons of trouble getting the two zones wired properly with the honeywell zone valves because he was unaware that the thermostats were blown so he was trying all this unnecessary troubleshooting. I caught him trying to leave one zone valve open in maintenance since he could't get that zone to work with the thermostat. So basically one zone was calling for heat on both always. He played dumb on that.
5) The water pressure reducing valve he installed on my water feed was faulty. It wasn't regulating under 15 PSI. So the overflow was spewing water all over my utility room. He put a bucket to catch it. He tried to blame the city water pressure being too high. I had to deal with that nonsense argument too. He went and got a new one from the plumbing supply store and it worked fine.
"Reducing our country's energy consumption, one system at a time"
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Baltimore, MD (USA) and consulting anywhere.
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/all-steamed-up-inc
Can't fathom what reasoning NH would require emergency switches removed. True, they sometime cause nuisance no heat calls but the +++ oughtweigh the- in my opinion.
@Steamhead
MA has required emergency switches "outside" the boiler room forever on oil. They wont accept the top of the stairs on the basement side of the door. People used to hide them upstairs (I have seen them in closets which defeats the purpose) now they had changed that so they had to be in plain sight...but that was MA code which they did away with 4 years ago and now adopted NFPA 31 to save money... not sure what they require.
Gas never required them on residential or commercial. But I think it's ASME CSD-1 that requires them now on gas and oil....and they want them at every boiler room entrance...if there are multiple entrances.
The ASME thing only started in the last 5 years around here but enforcement is hit or miss. Fire dept inspects oil here and doesn't know ASME. Gas inspection by plumbing inspectros and they don't know ASME either. But a new commercial boiler with a state inspection they will pick up on it.
@Jamie Hall
When I worked in Hartford years ago I saw a lot of residential jobs with a switch inside the stair well going to the basement at the top of the stairs....but no switch at the boiler....must have been a hold over from the old days, these were all older jobs. Was a PITA to work on the burners. Pulling a stat wire off the old stack switch to start & stop and test burner. Bleeding an oil pump was exciting!!
I'll try to move my doorbell transformer somewhere else, but the 18 gauge doorbell wire is routed to that area with the intent to be on the same circuit as the furnace. There's a different circuit in that utility room where I could consider moving the doorbell to.
Here is an updated diagram on how I plan to fix the wiring:
I'll test the switches with a light fixture or my multimeter with the furnace out of the equation to make sure all the switching is working the way I want it to. Then I'll wire in the furnace last.
I'm also going to change the plain switch plates to put those red emergency shutoff plates for safety.
Technically the heating system(s) must be on a dedicated circuit. But the old doorbell piggyback has been around for years and draws really nothing unless kids constantly play Ring n Run by you and the chime plays a full concerto.
I come from a background in graphics design and IT solutions design. For these diagrams, I used a little Photoshop and Visio.
The switch plates, furnace, switches, transformer, service panel and wire nuts are all images from the internet. The rest is Visio.
But it takes years of practice from being in the field. Visio didn't magically throw that together for me as a template. I had to take my time deciding on the layout and reworking things. It took hours, not minutes. But it's a hobby of mine and I have fun doing it.
My Visio is a few years old. I bought the cheapest version but then found everything I added to it works. I have done some decent prints with it....nothing fancy. Now that I can use it a little it's fun. Learning was very frustrating
The next day when they are cold or no DHW it is not remembered. Call to service tech $$$ are gone and you as the HO are embarrassed.
For us it is a joke because the HO did exactly that on one New Years Eve and the new year was off to a very cold start in RI.
Although, I have this one:
It will probably block most of the print on the emergency shut off switch plates. So I should see if some clear ones would be better.
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.
Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
> Hmmm, really Fire??? Hows shutting off the power going to stop a fire? And of course there are no circuit breakers outside where it is safe to shut off the electricity. It's probably better to have a fire extinguisher rated for electricity handy with a gas meter wrench next to the meter. There must have been a reason for it.
Shutting power should close the boiler gas valve
"So he got it wired to properly switch power to the boiler, but the upstairs switch became useless and now I want to fix it."
The wiring isn't as depicted in your first diagram or else the top switch would work if the boiler switch works as the power is coming thru the top switch. But....The power is coming in at the boiler switch and you have a 2 conductor romex cable going to the top switch, I think. The second diagram is the sensible way to wire it. The transformers would always have power, not switched power. It all depends on where the power comes in.
I’m telling you what the code says, for safety and probably enacted because of 1 or more specific tragedies.
You can do what you want.
I'm not saying (two boiler disconnects) whether it's a good idea or not, but the logical reason for it. I know, the code is at times unreasonable. But, the NEC is written in legalese and consistently reasonable. I mean, if you have two disconnects, three would be better, don't you think.
As my memory bordering on Alzheimer serves me, one can hard wire a boiler or furnace without a disconnect into a circuit as long as the breaker controlling that circuit is in a panel that is a viewable distance from that appliance.
When I was a building inspector, I always tried to use common sense, not book l'arnin'. Not any more...
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.
Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
Some motor driven appliances (garbage disposals and dishwashers) never had disconnects in the past but they are now required.
"emergency switches" for oil and gas furnaces and boilers just make sense, they are not NEC required but may be required by boiler and furnace codes
During his time on the job, I didn't have the time to troubleshoot his work. I wasn't hovering. It took me a while to realize he was making a lot of mistakes a professional shouldn't make. I cut him loose and didn't want him making anymore mistakes. I knew I'd fix these sequence switches myself when I got the time and patience.
> Hmmm, really Fire??? Hows shutting off the power going to stop a fire? And of course there are no circuit breakers outside where it is safe to shut off the electricity. It's probably better to have a fire extinguisher rated for electricity handy with a gas meter wrench next to the meter. There must have been a reason for it.
Are you a contractor?
This is yet another illustration of the old saying that Codes are written in blood.
"Reducing our country's energy consumption, one system at a time"
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Baltimore, MD (USA) and consulting anywhere.
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/all-steamed-up-inc