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Ignition problem with UB95M-200 Boiler

I have a problem with my UB95M-200 boiler, and it sounds very much like a past dialogue I found on your site https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/144579/utica-boiler-ignition-problem My brother has the identical unit at his home, and I have swapped the spark plug, spark plug wire, and the control module — one at a time — and I still get a 02 error on my unit, and my brother’s unit runs fine. Also, the rumbling sound that was mentioned in the previous post (link above) has been happening in my unit for the past ten years. The installer technician could never figure out why it was happening, and finally gave up trying about seven years ago. Despite the crazy sounds upon ignition, it has kept my house warm for the past decade. Now, after resetting it will not ignite. Twice in the past week it ignited and warmed up as normal, only to fail in a subsequent cycle and stop with the 02 error showing after five attempts at igniting. Help!
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Comments
Monday try calling Todd at ECR 315-731-4163.
I was wondering about the previous post that I referenced. Is there a good chance that it has something to do with the routing of the exhaust? -- especially considering that crazy rumbling.
Thanks, will call Todd tomorrow.
I have a screwdriver, a hammer ... and an iPhone
You may have the original burner which had issues and needs to be retrofitted.
That boiler MUST be setup properly with a digital combustion analyzer and a tech that's properly trained to do so. A hammer and screw driver ain't gonna cut it.
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
If yours is 10 years old, it's almost a certainty that you need the retrofit.
If your original tech had contacted the factory, he wouldn't have wasted seven years trying to figure it out.
Call Todd before the tech wastes his time and your money trying to correct it.
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
After calling the original installer (the same man who was trying to help me diagnose the current problem) yesterday morning, and asking him if he had a digital combustion analyzer — and getting the answer “I don’t even know what that is” ... I decided it was time to call someone else. Actually, I now realize that it was approximately one decade past the time to call someone else. The service man, Tim, has the same unit in his home and has been trained to work on Utica and Dunkirk boilers. Also, he has a digital combustion analyzer. He installed a new gas valve. He reprogrammed the parameters and fan speeds on the control module, and said that they were way out of whack — saying that they were probably never set correctly in the first place . I’m not certain that the gas valve needed to be replaced, but the boiler is running better than ever without the rumbling sounds. Tim said that he does not think I need an updated burner kit now that he has reprogrammed my existing one. Does that sound right to you?
Also, I did want to mention that I called Todd’s number at ECR several times and left a couple messages with my phone number, asking for a return call. I still have not heard back from him.
One final note (I think), Tim said that I should be using a special anti-freeze in the system. It has been filled with water since day one — ten years ago. Tim and Ironman, what is your take on this?
Thanks again for all the help! You guys, and this forum, are awesome!
Wait til you talk to Todd and see what he says about the burner. My experience has been they want to replace everyone that I had trouble with, which was many. I tried everything imaginable that ECR's engineers could recommend to correct the burner problem, plus some of my own; nothing worked, including multiple parameter and fan speed changes. Just when I found something that I thought had fixed it, boom...it was back again. It might have worked well for 30 cycles or more, but on the next one, it was back.
I'm glad you found a good tech, but I doubt if anyone in the field has had more experience with that issue than I have and the burner kit upgrade was the only solution.
I was one of the first ones to install that boiler and had to work with engineering to get an updated burner kit out. I believe that there have been 3 revisions of it since then. The new burner requires a factory reprogrammed ignition module since it uses different parameters that can't be done in the field.
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
I'm located in Melrose MA
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
http://www.bobgagnon.com/
It needs the burner retrofit that I mentioned above. It's not that hard to do, but like any mod/con, it should be setup with a digital combustion analyzer.
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
PLEASE HEAR ME: THE ORIGINAL BURNER DESIGN HAD ISSUES AND REQUIRED A RE-DESIGN. YOU NEED THE ENTIRE KIT WHICH INCLUDES THE BURNER , THE CONTROL MODULE AND OTHER NECESSARRY PARTS.
In all kindness, there's really no need for me to comment further if you're not gonna follow my advice and get the retrofit burner kit. It was originally called the "Worgas" kit.
Your guy is guessing.
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
Thanks
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
Co2 is 9.96
o2 is 7.4
Co is 0 ppm
On low fire
Co2 is 10.11
02 is 7.2
Co is20 ppm
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
Also, what size is the vent and intake piping and how long is the run?
How about some pics of the boiler and its near piping as well as the vent termination?
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
Your venting is 2" out of the boiler that goes to 3" into a bazooka concentric kit. You are piped old school. No primary/secondary.
Good chance the valve is not working properly anymore.
How high off the ground is the concentric?
How close are any corners of the home to it?
Do either the exhaust or intake pipes have black staining/sooting on them?
Horizontal concentric venting can cause combustion air to enter the intake and cause failure of the venturi and or gas valves. Especially over many years.
D