Ignition problem with UB95M-200 Boiler

stever1000

The guy working on it is not here now. I don't know what a dirt leg is. The exhaust and intake are both clean and white inside, no stain or dirt. The unit is on cinder blocks and it 15 feet away from the corner of my house. Idk if that's what you were asking. The intake / exhaust is only 4 or 5 feet long. It goes right out the wall in the pic and that's it.

stever1000

That thing, dirt leg lol

DZoro

That is the dirt/drip leg.
There is a rubber elbow connected to the gas valve and intake blower. Remove that elbow and take a picture of the portion of the venturi/ gas valve.

There is a black hard "cone" inside, it must be solid, "not move", clean, and no signs of black deterioration dust.
From there you maybe able to see the blower fins and confirm their condition???

Agree with @Ironman not enough gas. I believe that unit can temporary operate with the intake pipe off "black elbow". If so maybe try it with it off and note the combustion numbers.
D

Ironman

3.5" is too low. The I/O manual calls for a MINIMUM of 4" on high fire and that should be checked with all other gas appliances turned on. 7 - 8" is the normal supply pressure on natural.

Your gas line to the boiler may be too small. It's hard to tell from the pics, but it appears to be 1/2"; that's too small. The manual calls for a minimum of 3/4" and it may need to be larger than that depending on the length of run, number of fittings and other appliances on it.




As a point of reference, your boiler is 200k btus at high fire. Notice on the chart that a 3/4" line can only supply 190k btus when it's 20' long. So practically, if you have more than 15' of 3/4" line (or smaller), then it's too small.

stever1000

The boiler does work but it shuts down with E02 code sparaticly and I have to reset it.

stever1000

Between having to replace the heat exchanger, which part was under warranty but not labor and just putting the retrofit burner upgrade in I have spent 3,000 and now it's something else. I can't keep putting money in to this piece of ****. I had enough.

Ironman

stever1000 said:

Between having to replace the heat exchanger, which part was under warranty but not labor and just putting the retrofit burner upgrade in I have spent 3,000 and now it's something else. I can't keep putting money in to this piece of ****. I had enough.

But if your gas line is too small and not delivering enough gas, how is that the fault of the boiler? That would be the fault of your installer, and to some degree, every "tech" whose worked on it.

Don't blame the appliance for something that's external or the lack of competency in your chosen contractors.

stever1000

The gas line is 1" then 1/2" to boiler. So that is too small. I just don't understand how it worked for 10yrs and now I barley can get it started even though it is not installed right.

DZoro

Boilers and furnaces are similar to humans, when we are young we can do anything......but the older we get, we start to wish we would have taken better care of ourselves when we were young.

Your boiler is no different, a better install could possibly have avoided issues now.

Re piping in the proper size gas line is not a big deal. Just hope all the years of undersized gas supply didn't take its toll on the valve.

Quite frankly the combustion numbers are not horrible just need more gas to bring them in proper range.

D

Ironman

Well, we don't know everything thing that's on the line, if anything's been added, or if a regulator's been changed and not set as high as the old one, etc.

There are a lot of variables and not being on site to know, there could be more. Trying to diagnose something over the net with snippets of info from your end is gonna be problematic to say the least. We've at least pinpointed that you're not getting sufficient gas to the boiler and that would account for the combustion numbers and intermittent ignition failures.

You need to get someone who knows how to calculate and size gas lines on site to evaluate the entire gas system. A 1" line may NOT be sufficient if the run is too long or there is too much connected load. Bottom line: get the gas pressure up to at least 7" with EVERYTHING on the line running at the same time. Then recheck and adjust your combustion readings.

This just reinforces what we tell people all the time on here: do your homework in choosing a good contractor. Most folks just look for the lowest price and think the brand is the most important thing. I'll say it again, the contractor is 98% off the equation.

stever1000

My homeowners has appliance protection on it. It is supposed to cover any issues. I put a claim In and they sent over a heating guy to look at it. He was not familiar with the boiler so they tried finding someone that is. They could only find one place which I had over in the past and they didn't want to touch it. But they told insurance company they would look at it. They won't come over to look at it for 2 weeks and they said it will be at the end of the day on a Friday. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't even show up. So that's were I'm at right now. I appreciate everyones help.

SubZeroVT

Hi Everyone, I know it's been some time since this subject has been talked about but I am one of the unlucky owners of this Utica UB95M- 200 Series boilers. It was installed in early to mid-2011 and I have only owned the property for about 8 months. In the short time I've owned this boiler I've already had several issues with it just stop working. Resetting the boiler works but it comes and goes like so many others here. This did have the new ignighter installed since it was throwing that error code that so many others have seen. Just seeing if I should cut my losses and install a Weil-McLain boiler or if people here have found a way to make this boiler reliable

stever1000

Just incase it can help anyone, I have my utica 95m-200 with a lot of new parts sitting here if anyone is in need of parts.          Boston MA 

SubZeroVT

Hello Everyone I have a UB95M-200 Boiler that previously had the 02 error code that eventually led to the boiler shutting down. After adding the new igniter, it resolved the error code 02 but now I'm having it just get a blank screen on me in the middle of satisfying the call for heat. It's very random but consistent. I did notice that the recent tech onsite removed the ground wire that was attached to the unit which I heard can cause this but I wanted to check with others to see if that sounds right? Him removing this does line up with when the issue started.

Ironman

Why would he remove the ground? It’s necessary both for safety and to prove ignition.

SubZeroVT

I agree Ironman. After replacing the ground wire it's now working much better and went from shutting down every 20mins to now only doing it about 3 times per day. When it shuts down, the screen goes completely blank and it eventually starts back up again. We have already adjusted the voltage monitor so it's in line with the incoming voltage, it has been serviced recently and completely cleaned and flushed, and has the retrofit burner (fires so much better now). Any ideas what would cause this blank screen with no error codes?

SubZeroVT

I should also note that we did stick a camera down both the exhaust and intake and noticed some condensation/water in the exhaust pipe. Likely not pitched properly right before it exits out the side of the house.

Ironman

There may be a voltage monitor that was added with the kit and on later models that’s interrupting power to the board.

EBEBRATT-Ed

@SubZeroVT

Your flue pipe has to be pitched low on the boiler end so the condensate will drain back to the boiler

Ironman

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

@SubZeroVT Your flue pipe has to be pitched low on the boiler end so the condensate will drain back to the boiler

Also: Someone may have incorrectly installed a concentric reducing coupling in a horizontal run of the flue.

SubZeroVT

Ironman said:

There may be a voltage monitor that was added with the kit and on later models that’s interrupting power to the board.

Yes, we have ordered a new voltage monitor in hopes of this being the fix. There is a green light on the current one that never turns red when the display screen goes blank. I will update the group after replacing this part today

SubZeroVT

Ironman said:

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

@SubZeroVT

Your flue pipe has to be pitched low on the boiler end so the condensate will drain back to the boiler

Also: Someone may have incorrectly installed a concentric reducing coupling in a horizontal run of the flue.

Yeah it looks like the final run of the flue pipe may not be pitched correctly causing water to get hung up in the last few feet before the pipe goes outside. Everything else is pitched back to the boiler except this small section