New Gas Boiler "short cycling"

neilc

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1893277#Comment_1893277

one zone?

take the check out,

pedmec

@nelic why open the system up and introduce more air. just shut the supply off and purge thru the boiler drain. Simple

neilc

good point

Ismellelephant

That is the pressure gauge.

Jamie Hall

How are you taking the temperature readings? If it is a non-contact thermometer (IR), they can be a bit tricky — and they are very sensitive to variations in the surface they are "looking at". Are the surfaces all the same? Are you very close to the pipes?

Reason I ask is that those temperature measurements if they are correct suggest that the flow through the boiler may be backwards…

neilc

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1893285#Comment_1893285

Doh!!

tcassano87

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1893279#Comment_1893279

looks to me like that’s the tee & tridicator gauge that comes on WM boilers

Ismellelephant

That is the pressure gauge.

neilc

I swear I saw ventilation holes on the back of some weird azz motor,

Doh !!

Jamie Hall

Correct. That is a pressure (and temperature) gauge. A gauge. In one single place. What is happening to the pressure elsewhere?

4GenPlumber

If those temps are correct, then it wasnt purged properly, or there is a valve somewhere stopping circulation, or the new circ is a dud, or there is a ghost. If the circ was in the right place, with the feed and exp tank in the right place, we could probably eliminate the purging as a possibility. If its a ghost…good luck.

EdTheHeaterMan

This problem is quite common in vacation homes. The homeowner is not there during the coldest part of the winter, so they don’t know that this problem may have existed for 30 years, since they are never there on design-temperature days. They also know that on the few cool days when they visit the home, it gets comfortable for the most part.

So let’s look at the whole system.

1. What do the radiators look like? Can we get a picture of some of the radiators? Are there any installation errors, such as placing the fin in the wrong orientation? Are there wall-to-wall carpets blocking the underside of the air intake at the bottom of the enclosure? Is there a kink in a piece of copper pipe that is restricting the flow?
2. Also look at the near-boiler piping for a blockage. I once had a Spirovent get clogged with debris in the system that we could not find for years. When we finally removed it for another reason, we discovered the problem that had haunted us all that time. Once I saw that screen all gummed up, I realized that all the strange moaning noises and circulation problems were the result of that clogged air vent not allowing proper water flow through the system.
3. After ruling out water-flow restrictions and air-flow restrictions through the radiators, then we can look at all the other things that were discussed here.

Ismellelephant

There are no carpets, just hardwood floors. I am not at the house now but will check for proper fins installation.

As others have mentioned, the system has been purged of air two times.

From what has been mentioned here, this boiler seems to need more than 57 feet of fins to operate properly. Could this be the problem? Adding more fins wouldn't be difficult.

109A_5

More radiation would help once the system is working correctly. With those temperatures measured it seems like there is a flow issue, or a measurement issue. I would think this issue should be understood before spending time and money modifying the system.

Ismellelephant

I agree the temperature measurements look odd. I'll try a different meter next time I am at the house.

The boiler states a "heating capacity of 77,000 BTU's". It appears that would require about 128 ft of baseboard fins.

The plumbing is easily accessible and I could add four 10 ft baseboard fins. When added to the existing baseboard I'd end up with 97 ft.