near toilet floor constantly wet
Comments
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is this standing water and a water line at the surface of that water on that pipe?
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Likely light effects.
I need to take a closer look.
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Any answer to picture of "screw in pipe"?
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Need to take a closer look.
Could be due to the perspective. It's not easy to drive a screw into a round tubing surface. If the screw did nail into the tubing, the leak should be much faster.
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I’ve seen plenty of screws and nails in pipes with only minor leaking after a period of time due to the iron corrosion closing the hole
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the sharp point if the screw makes it pretty easy to bite in to the pipe. looks like they were going for the steel stud next to it.
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The screw didn't puncture into the tube. It was close, but the tube has held up for decades..
Above is another example of a close call.
I did found one leaking rusty fitting due to corrosion.
It will be terriblely difficult to remove this type of fitting. What's the common approach to replace the corroded section, after opening the wall?
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you can sometimes cut a fitting off a nipple or a nipple out of a fitting and screw a pcv adapter on to it. i think certain types of ferncos are permitted inside a wall. i would replace as much as i can because galvanized waste has about a 60-70 year lifespan and they stopped using it about 60 years ago. anything that is a vent should be ok but anything that gets wet is likely near the end of its life.
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or is that supply pipe? supply pipe is usually a little easier to get to unscrew. i can't tell the size from the pictures.
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It's roughly this area
There is a cement board behind the tiles
What approach do you follow for cutting and restoration after the repair?
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unless you have ore tile i would go from the other side of the wall
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this is the ground floor so I prefer cutting from the front side
from the otherside, i don't know what i'm cutting into, questions like, are the laths i'm cutting partially structural? etc.
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wood lath under lath and plaster is not structural although you need to be careful how you cut it so you don't break the rest of the plaster off of it
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any practical steps to replace a rusty frozen T in a steam wet return (both pipes and T are black iron)?
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cast fittings can be cracked by backing up the fitting with one hammer and hitting it with another hammer.
fittings can be cut off of nipples by cutting almost to the threads and splitting them. nipples can be cut out of fittings by cutting almost to the threads in 2 places then using a small chisel or punch to break out the piece in between. if you get lucky you can unscrew it with a pair of pipe wrenches, possibly with pieces of pipe or tubing over the handles to increase the force, make sure you seat the back of the wrench on the pipe to reduce the chance of crushing. wet return piping can be replaced with copper.
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I have never tried a hammer on a fitting.
I see the cut point can be chosen to preserve the threads on either the pipe or the fitting.
but after cutting off the T (preserving the pipe threads), how to get a new stainless steel or black iron T in? I need a new T there to provide a branch
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