finding a leak in a mini-split
have a mini split with small leak
havent been able to pinpoint
any tricks of the trade?
what is best electronic detector out there?
Comments
-
Isolate the linesets. Its probably somewhere in the middle of one.
0 -
Isolate the components.
Pressure test the air handler and line set separately, 600#'s N2.
I like the H10 Leak Detector.
2 -
Pressure test with high nitrogen pressure, 500-600 PSI and spray all lineset connections with with leak detector soap. If you happen to have the lineset with the white insulation it could be anywhere in between the indoor and outdoor units. Those linesets are notorious for leaks in the copper due to formicary corrosion. I usually add a little refrigerant in with the nitrogen so I use it as a trace gas for finding the leak with my electronic leak detector. I like to use the Infinicon D-Tek Stratus. I would never use any of the stop leak products that can be added with refrigerant, they do more harm than good. I only use dye as a last resort.
0 -
NEVER use dye in a mini split.
The dye isn't actually a liquid, it's finely powered fluorescent minerals. What happens is it settles out. I had a Mitsubishi that someone put dye in. I took the compressor out, dumped the oil, rinsed the compressor with denatured alcohol several times, & was still getting small flakes out. It was a total loss, we ended up replacing the outdoor and indoor units.
2 -
I respectfully disagree, as with anything else "When Used Properly" No Issues. If the instructions say 3 oz for this size system than its 3 oz's not 30!
1 -
Have any of you ever experienced this? I had a leak in my self-installed mini split. I bought a sniffer and it detected a leak at one of the 2nd floor heads. I got a replacement under warranty after sending a video of the leak detector going off near the fins of the head unit.
I replaced it but the leak persisted.
I dug deeper and found it for real at a place where I had spliced the line set (I would not do that today).
I think the refrigerant migrated up the lineset insulation all the way to the head where the sniffer detected it. I have always felt guilty about that warranty replacement that probably was my fault.
Also, I swear I could smell it in the room when lying quietly, but it was VERY subtle
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
yeah if there is a leak in the lineset run and the leaky area is well covered by the insulation there is a pretty good chance the refrigerant will go out the end of the lineset insulation. I assume you had your splice pretty well taped and insulated and that's why you didn't check that first? Or put the sniffer near the splice but it wasn't showing up through the insulation?
1 -
yep is was buried in a line set run guard thing on the exterior wall but at least it was near the ground. Definitely a case of looking for my keys where the light is stronger
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
the insulation on the line set ends must be sealed. If you don’t seal the ends with silicone or electric tape condensation will form and find somewhere to drip out.
1 -
IDK if you were referring to my post re dye, but Mitsubishi will not warrant a unit that has dye in it. Perhaps other mfgrs allow it, I may have been too general.
I've seen dye work fine (well, messy as h#!!) in regular splits and automotive applications. IDK what it is about Mitsubishis, perhaps the metric oil (AB or something , I forget) is the cause, but it was something to see. It'll piss me off something fierce to get it in my manifold, though.
0 -
Copeland
Mitsubishi
Tecumseh
Reserve the right to refuse the warranty!
If overfilled with dye yes they will deny warranty!
I don’t believe any have tested the waters legally.
0 -
mine will go out of balance if i tap the sensor on anything. had it go off lots that way, never actually found the leak that way.
1 -
I would say six or seven out of 10 hvac contractors are more than thrilled to install a system, but when a problem pops up down the road they’re gone. I’m speaking in very general terms.
Leaks are a pain, and searching for them can be anywhere from pretty easy to extremely difficult. The more zones, the bigger the pain.Good luck I hope you get it all resolved
0 -
those #’s are conservative!
2 -
What will “Go out of balance”?
0 -
the wheatstone bridge in the refrigerant detector.
like it is alarming because i smacked it on the firewall next to the evaporator connection, not because it encountered refrigerant
0 -
my D-Tek does the same!
0 -
mine is a very old d-tek that i bought off ebay a decade or so ago.
0 -
I wish I had a tip for you but I have tried and tried and not yet found a leak, using soap or an electronic detector. I just replaced the line set on the first system I installed because I found a bunch of weak looking spots and I think that did fix the leak because I was able to pump a good vacuum on it for the first time ever. (And it held nitrogen at 200 psi.) I am an amateur and just do installs for my own use (though I did get the EPA certification). I've used the DIY systems that are pre-charged. But when I replaced this line set I removed the quick connect connectors and used flare connections and they look much cleaner. I suspect one of the quick connect fittings was leaking but I never had the satisfaction of actually finding the leak!
0 -
If you used a white line set, more likely than not it's the line set leaking. We had so many leaks when the white line set was used, we went back and replaced the line sets and haven't had any problem since. We never use any line set with white armaflex.
Bob Cermignano
Ardmore, Pa.
0 -
I use a YellowJacket sniffer. (also works on propane :) ). I found out the a lot of extra work way that it also responds to my breath!! lol… :/
—Benjamin
Brookfield, Vermont
0 -
My wife sold a brand name leak detector that worked as well as any of them (not) for $5. at our yard sale snd I was upset at the price but glad that it was gone. It also would go off at randome or when it got bumped. I use an ultrasonic detector and dye . The only ultrasonic that I think works is the one that is made by superior signal called Accutrak. It has been marketed by Kent Moore and some others also. I'm glad to hear that the dye is mineral ad you cansee it separating in the tubes sometimes. It plugged up a couple of the tubes and would not come out . The ultrasonic is a bit tricky at times but still the best. Ionce was looking for a leak in an ice machine in my garage and followed the sound and it was coming from bugs in my garden. Alos flourescent lights ballasts and neon lights bother it and fool you.
0 -
my go to is the AccuTrak ultrasonic when pressurized with nitrogen.
I also have a D-Tek sniffer, but that is strategic as compared to tactical.0
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.9K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.2K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 57 Biomass
- 425 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 109 Chimneys & Flues
- 2.1K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.7K Gas Heating
- 105 Geothermal
- 160 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.6K Oil Heating
- 70 Pipe Deterioration
- 973 Plumbing
- 6.3K Radiant Heating
- 386 Solar
- 15.4K Strictly Steam
- 3.4K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 44 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements