Cutting 20 section radiator in half?
I have a 20 section Kohler radiator that uses reverse threaded nipples.
Is it a bad idea to try and seperate this into two 10 section radiators? Or a 12 and an 8 etc?
I'm going to show my ignorance here, but how is that reverse threaded nipples? I don't see how you could get to 'em to spin 'em.0
You'll have to ask @Steamhead
But I think the nipples have fangs that a tool grabs from the other side of the section so you can spin it together, similar to a spud wrench.Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment0
That's correct. And they're almost impossible to remove now without breaking something. Don't try this.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
You could hang the one with no legs. I would make that the smaller one. Then all you need is to find some reverse thread plugs. Use the two end sections on the larger radiator. This illustration shows the 1 thru 11 sections plus the 20 section as the larger radiator. The 12 thru 19 section radiator would need fabricated legs or brackets to support the radiator. all you need to do is find the left hand plugs
OOPS. I started this illustration before @Steamhead published his comment.
Does heating the area with a tourch help at all?
Otherwise just get 2 new radiatorsEdward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics0
ypu're really asking this question? just look for what you actually need on craigslist or facbook marketplace.0
although you do have a metal lathe don't you? you could cut out the nipples and make new ones, but the sane way is just to find some that are what you need.0
i see, something like a spud wrench? So it'd go one section at a time?
IIWM I'd just use that one in the garage.0
Sometimes you just need a round 2-it. You can use one of mine Chris. Just PM me you shipping address. It is amazing how much you get done with one of these.Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics0
steamhead has the correct advice!🙂
I've divided some Italian Flue radiators put together like this. That was done when highly motivated based on their rare style, height (21"), a special place for them (they went under windows on the second floor and matched tall ones on the first floor). I cut a middle section out with a plasma cutter, removed the adjacent nipples and managed to seal up those ends with NPT fittings ( LH or RH threads), then made custom legs for the cutoff end. I took four long ones and made eight usable ones. This was a big job but worth it to me. They've been in use for years and beautiful.
There's no way I'd recommend doing this to get a shorter radiator. I'd start looking around for a good used one. There's a decent chance that you'll find one the right size and same style.1
Just find youself a different radiator.I just earned my GED and am looking for a apprenticeship with one of these steam gurus on this site!0
I can believe no problem with the reducer at that angle! 😅1 pipe Peerless 63-03L in Cedar Grove, NJ, coal > oil > NG0
It is the closest rad to the tstat that is just outside the entry into this room.
Slow Hoffman air vent, a 40 IIRC.
One of the oldest vents in the building.0
A couple of years ago I assebled a Castrad radiator that used threaded nipples. I only had to put three units together, for a total of 4 nipples, and they loaned me the special socket and a 3 ft. extension for my ¾" breaker bar, but I ended up having to take it apart and put it back together a couple of times, and let me tell you, it was a pain right in the tuchus. And I used to be an auto mechanic back when. Now, considering that this was a brand spankin' new radiator, and I've seen what the steel push nipples in my Arco radiators look like after 75 years, and you're not going to get Kohler to send you the special socket you'd need, I have to say I don't like your chances.Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-241
I agree. I'd have put the reducer under the valve and used a bigger valve. Then again, most radiators come with a reducing bushing at the supply end anyway. 🤷♂️Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-240
This system was probably completed in 1913-15.
I have been around the system for maybe 15 years and noticed some oddities, not only the brick leg.
For instance, there is a 3 collumn radiator that has a 2 collumn leg section on one end and the 3 collumn on the other.
These were all put in by dead men of the time.
Thinking back to those years, the only transport out here was railroad, maybe one train per day going east far enough (200 miles) to get any supplies.
No phones, only mail or telegraph. Perhaps had to get the job done.
From church records, heating and plumbing cost was $1000.810
All of mine have bushings………I think 1.5" to 1.25" or, on smaller radiatos 1.5" to 1"
None of them seem to care, at least, not yet. I say yet because I'm sure them holding water will catch up eventually.Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment0
Don't be silly.
How could dead men possibly install radiators…………
On that subject, many are always talking about "the dead men" like they're infaliable. Does everyone realize the hvac contractors of today slapping in ductboard and flex draped all over the place will be dead eventually? We all will? That doesn't magically make people perfect craftsmen.Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment0
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