Just connect all the pipes. Stop thinking about it.

JohnNY

KC_Jones

These two seem appropriate.

ratio

I don't see what the big deal is. It's just redundant feeds. I mean, they probably didn't need the upsell, but maybe they wanted to spend a little more for peace of mind.

Jamie Hall

oy...

STEVEusaPA

I scared.

pecmsg

JohnNY said:

We need the video of your expression when you 1st saw that!

EBEBRATT-Ed

Obviously with the original boiler those two flanged unions were nippled into the top of the old boiler so the installer saw nothing wrong with what he did.

SlamDunk

How well did it work?

DanHolohan

Who gets to work on steam?

Everybody. Sigh. 

Docfletcher

That is a beautiful white color. Too bad they didn't paint the rest to match.

Intplm.

Oh NOOO!

KC_Jones

Wait, there is an outlet on the other side of that boiler, so it appears they didn't connect all the pipes.

That connection would have solved everything.

offdutytech

At least the boiler room is clean🤷‍♂️

EBEBRATT-Ed

Just shows the difference between the oldbiolers and more modern boilers.

With the old boiler connected to the existing flanges and with the old boiler having a large steam chest and more water content it worked with the balance pipe connected between the two tees.

Even though the old boiler was never piped "right" it worked

With the newer boiler it never had a chance

nicholas bonham-carter

Ed, your right, if you look at the original pipes, you may see that it was an iffy piping layout, even before the new installation made it super-iffy. The trunkslammer installer may have thought really “high pressure goes to low pressure”, and I’ve done it this way for years!
JohnNY, what was the reaction to your diagnosis from the home owners?—NBC

JUGHNE

This is another install that should not be working.
The same thing but only better.

They did use 4" out of both side outlets. (500,000+ btuh boiler)
No skim tapping, never was skimmed that I am aware of.
However, that tank acts as a huge p-trap, collecting sludge and oil.
I have flushed it out once....very bad.

The "equalizer" comes out of the side of the top header....so there is no "drip" of the header.
That 2" goes into the top of the condensate accumulator tank for steam pressure.
The HL connects into the end of that tank, (not visible) just below the water line.

So with enough vertical rise of boiler risers you tend to recreate the large steam chest effect that would have been there originally.

The 4" above the flanges is original to the 1911 church, as are the 2 3" steam mains connected.

This works on 8-12 ounces of pressure, heats quickly and is as quiet as, well, a church mouse....pun intended.

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

Docfletcher said:

That is a beautiful white color. Too bad they didn't paint the rest to match.

I think they wanted to show off their soldering skills.

rick in Alaska

Speaking of soldering skills: It looks to me like the 90 on the right might have been soldered on, then slid most of the way off, and appears to be it is ready to come loose. Not sure about the tee on the right.
Rick

EBEBRATT-Ed

@JUGHNE

Your right about lousy piping sometimes working.

My theory is lets say someone installs an oversized boiler and then undersizes the risers and header and maybe configures the header wrong.......but it works!

Why does it work?

The system can only condense just so much steam. The risers and screwed up header don't ever have to handle the full load the boiler is rated at because it is oversized in comparison to what the system can condense. So the steam moves slower and it survives

JMHO

mattmia2

What is with the metal plates under the asbestosey looking insulation?

Jamie Hall

Nice example of something I think I've said before. Steam heat is almost incredibly forgiving. It can be made to work superbly well following a few pretty simple concepts (at least I think they're simple...) but even if as magnificently fouled up as this one, it will likely work. Maybe not well. Maybe noisy. But it will work.

JUGHNE

IDK for sure about the square plates. They allow enough room to remove the flange bolts....maybe why.

I believe the top flange and insulation is original to the install.

PC7060

JUGHNE said:

IDK for sure about the square plates. They allow enough room to remove the flange bolts....maybe why. I believe the top flange and insulation is original to the install.

I agree, look like insulation terminating plates. I’m sure if you could find the original drawing it would be detailed there!

JUGHNE

I don't mean to hijack the thread....but you asked.
No print but 1912 expenditures are available.
Plumbing and heating $1600.81, mostly heating as there were no RR inside.
(They came in the late 40's)
(Coal fired boiler, with shovels, two 100' 3" steam mains with about 15 CI rads)

Pre wiring for electrical (power came about 8 years later) and gas lighting was $420,81, BTY, Cathedral assessment was $1000.00 .

The Steam Whisperer

JUGHNE said:

This is another install that should not be working.
The same thing but only better.

They did use 4" out of both side outlets. (500,000+ btuh boiler)
No skim tapping, never was skimmed that I am aware of.
However, that tank acts as a huge p-trap, collecting sludge and oil.
I have flushed it out once....very bad.

The "equalizer" comes out of the side of the top header....so there is no "drip" of the header.
That 2" goes into the top of the condensate accumulator tank for steam pressure.
The HL connects into the end of that tank, (not visible) just below the water line.

So with enough vertical rise of boiler risers you tend to recreate the large steam chest effect that would have been there originally.

The 4" above the flanges is original to the 1911 church, as are the 2 3" steam mains connected.

This works on 8-12 ounces of pressure, heats quickly and is as quiet as, well, a church mouse....pun intended.

If your run the numbers 2x4inch inch outlets on only a 500,000 btu boiler gives nice low velocity steam, so the water can drop back right in the risers.