Help with air in fuel tank of oil burner after filling

Jon_blaney

So, did you check the vent?

Kris78

@EdTheHeaterMan yep we will go with my age at 24 LOL oh wait flip that.

Kris78

@JUGHNE I agree top feed would eliminate anything on the bottom of the tank causing an issue. Today's task take the top burner out and do some maintenance. The bottom burner is running like a champ. Top is not behaving it's self so going all the way through it new nozzle (I keep a large supply as they are not a locally bought item) I know I sound like I am in the boonies I swear I am not.

I am off to make myself look like pig pin on a good day.

EdTheHeaterMan

So, does anyone else think that Kris could be Allison Janney's Gorgeous little sister? Allison is taller at 5'13"



Just Askin'

Kris78

Hahahah she has me beat I am only 5'4" on a good day.

EdTheHeaterMan

In a PM Kris mentioned that she purchased a flaring tool so after I sent her this message, I thought it would be good for everyone following this to know about it.

OK, that may also be part of the problem. Getting a good flare on 3/8" copper tubing can be tricky and aggravating. To be sure to get a leak-free connection you must ream the interior of the copper tube after you cut the tubing with a tubing cutter (or hacksaw which is not the preferred method but I have used it successfully in a pinch). This illustration shows the burr that must be remover after cutting copper tubing.



This video is overkill because the pressure of R410a refrigerant is well over 300 PSI However, the principals of "Soft Cutting" which takes more time with at least 4 revolutions of the cutter for every time you make a 1/8 turn on the cutting wheel adjustment. and reaming the interior with a utility knife and needle nose pliers (or a reaming tool) are important for oil lines, LP and other gas connections. This is the best video on flaring I could find. All the others either don't cover reaming or are for automotive brake lines that use stainless steel tubing and don't apply to copper oil lines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itoro65YpZM

I slight leak at a flare joint will give you the air problems you are experiencing. Oil may not leak out but air will leak in. As the temperature drops the problem will increase. As the sludge in the bottom of the tank is disturbed the oil filter may load up causing the pump to work harder and the higher vacuum will increase the amount of air infiltration into the fuel lines

EdTheHeaterMan

@Kris78 You may want to look at all the flare joints to see if they need to be re-flared. This is a failed attempt by me as a professional. This was a difficult location and I could not see the end (I was working blind, using only my fingers to feel the end) so I took a picture to be sure it was correct. Had to do this 3 times before I was satisfied it was right.

Kris78

3rd times the charm. Added them to the inspection list.

EdTheHeaterMan

You only need to inspect them once. Re-flare if needed. Once the leak is found and repaired, then no reason to inspect them ever again.

Jamie Hall

EdTheHeaterMan said:

You only need to inspect them once. Re-flare if needed. Once the leak is found and repaired, then no reason to inspect them ever again.

In act, except for checking the outside -- don't, or at least don't take them apart again!

And the comment about not oil out but air in -- somehow still not commonly realised, but the fact that a joint won't leak under pressure doesn't mean it will hold a vacuum -- and the other way around.

EdTheHeaterMan

Good point Jamie. You heard what I meant to say... LOL (Do what I mean not what I say! author: My Father) a proper rephrase is "Only check the flare on the tubing once to be sure it was done correctly, Once it is leak-free, you never need to take it apart to inspect it again. You still need to inspect for fuel leaks on the exterior of the tubing and fitting connections periodically."

Is that more betterer Jamie?

STEVEusaPA

Is this thread over yet?

EdTheHeaterMan

I believe Kris only works Monday thru Friday. This Monday will be another maintenance day for the crematorium and we should hear from her with any news. As far as I know, there are 2 vacuum gauges installed (one on each burner) and we will get the vacuum reading from her usage last week if there are any issues. I'm sure Kris will keep us up to date. As far as I can tell at this point "No News is Good News" meaning there were no major problems last week.

Kris78

Good Morning All,

An update for you. The entire system was gone through from lines to connections to the burners themselves. Extra cleaning & a few parts replaced just from normal ware. We found no major issues everything is running top notch right now. I am not about to hold my breath through. 1. we have a cold front moving in calling for blizzards here. 2. the tank is soon to need filled.

With everything running great prior to the 2 possible factors that mess it up we will see what happens. the cold will hit first. If it runs as good over the next 2 days of blizzard conditions this should rule out the cold.

I plan to make some changes to the system once spring hits to hopefully prevent any of these issues down the road.

I will keep you all posted.

Kris78

Good Morning Everyone,

I didn't forget about this feed. It has been a crap winter got another 6 inches today. I wanted to give you all an update. I gave in & replaced the top oil burner it has had enough. The new one runs great of course. The bottom one needed a little TLC is all to get it back to working correctly.

This spring I will rerun the fuel lines and possibly put in a day tank for winter that's still not decided yet since we will need to drill holes into the building and get approval blah blah... dang safety rules and all.

Maybe after I run new lines straight to the unit I may never experience these issues again we will see come next winter.

I thank you all for your help & input it has been a great benefit to have you all to sound board off of and come up with things to try.

~Kris~