Sharkbite fittings' max temp vs. possible boiler temperatures?

MrCofDG

I've come across an apparent contradiction..... background: I'm considering using oxygen-barrier PEX in an enhancement to my copper hydronic piping. My boiler manual recommends a temp setting of 200 degrees for baseboards and convectors. (I'm not running that high now). BUT www.sharkbite.com/products/brass-push-coupling says the fittings are only rated for 200 degrees F. Hmmm. That seems to imply that brass SharkBite fittings would be risky to use...... comments/experience ?

Jamie Hall

If the manufacturer rates the fitting for 200 and you never go over that, shouldn't be a problem.

Zman

I would be very surprised if your system requires 200 degrees. Most hot water systems run great at 170-180. You would have to perform a heat loss of the building and compare that to available radiation to be sure.

Sharkbites are generally not the right product for boiler piping.
A future home inspector would red flag a system cobbled together with shark bites.

Long Beach Ed

In some jurisdictions those things aren't permitted anywhere.

Jamie Hall

I didn't say I'd use them -- I wouldn't -- but only that he's within the manufacturer's spec.

Larry Weingarten

Yup, I've seen a leaky one cause roughly 10K in damage. To me they have use as a temporary repair fitting as long as it's not in a concealed space.

Yours, Larry

Paul Pollets

Shark Bites are repair fittings, not for assembly of Near-Boiler piping. Those fittings should be soldered, pressed or screwed.

hot_rod

If you think about it both copper press fitting and SharkBite or any grip fitting depend on the O ring for the seal.

The grip fitting depends on the serrated ring to keep things together, the press fitting depends on the crimp or compression of the copper.

In either case all that keeps the fluid in is a small o-ring seal.

I've seen plenty of green fuzzy press/ glycol connections, there must be some limit to o-ring seals

There is no substitute for a properly solar copper joint, in my experience.

Jamie Hall

"There is no substitute for a properly solid copper joint, in my experience"

And trust me. If even I can do them, anybody can! (with a little practice...)

MrCofDG

Ok, I'm gonna back away from Sharkbite. Thanks gents.

Jolly Bodger

@Jamie Hall , I'm having trouble soldering my PEX fittings. Can you give me some pointers?

Jamie Hall

Can't honestly say I've ever tried to solder a copper to PEX fitting. I use a special electric soldering clamp for all the soldering I do, since I work in old to very old structures where using a torch just isn't a good thing.

Jolly Bodger

What make model? I've looked at electric soldering a couple times for the same reasons

Jolly Bodger

So now that push fittings have been thrown out, what is best? Crimp or expansion?

Jamie Hall

Jolly Bodger said:

What make model? I've looked at electric soldering a couple times for the same reasons

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Pipe-Soldering-Perfect-spaces/dp/B004ST0W20/ref=pd_sbs_469_t_1/145-7069060-4313136?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004ST0W20&pd_rd_r=05c041d4-c3ab-4010-a5f8-58c7b82a055d&pd_rd_w=HpHWO&pd_rd_wg=4bFyJ&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=AJ5WF2GCTPFXSAJ0PTHX&psc=1&refRID=AJ5WF2GCTPFXSAJ0PTHX

Pricey, but not in comparison to trying to extinguish 200 year old lathe...

Larry Weingarten

Hi @Jolly Bodger , Try holding a crimp fitting next to an expansion fitting. Look at the ID of the fittings and I imagine you’ll see the expansion is substantially bigger. That’s less flow restriction, so is what I prefer

Yours, Larry

mattmia2

unless you really do something wrong the expansion fitting inherently makes an even grip on the fitting. you have to be careful how you put a crimp ring on and that the tooling is well made and in good condition to get a mostly even grip. the expansion fitting has a better chance of shrinking back down to its original configuration if it freezes as well, freezing could tend to push a crimp ring off or cut the tubing on the crimp ring.

MrCofDG

Ok, I'm getting a little confused re terminology.... Above, Paul Pollets states that near-boiler fittings "should be soldered, pressed or screwed". Is an "expansion fitting" yet another kind of fitting ?? Or is "expansion fitting" synonymous with a fitting that is 'pressed' ?

Jolly Bodger

There are two, actually three types of fitting for PEX pipe. Expansion is a collar that goes on the pipe then is expanded and shrinks back onto the fitting. Crimp rings go voer the pipe then are crimped down onto the fitting. and Push (sharkbite) but that one has already bee defunked.

Soldered = copper pipe fittings.
screwed= threaded fittings.
pressed= copper fittings with an O-ring seal that get pressed on the pipe = sharkbite that needs a special tool.

Jolly Bodger

I've seen someone try to use press fittings on a steam generator. didn't last long. Only brazing held up in the long run.

hot_rod

Jolly Bodger said:

There are two, actually three types of fitting for PEX pipe. Expansion is a collar that goes on the pipe then is expanded and shrinks back onto the fitting. Crimp rings go voer the pipe then are crimped down onto the fitting. and Push (sharkbite) but that one has already bee defunked.

Soldered = copper pipe fittings.
screwed= threaded fittings.
pressed= copper fittings with an O-ring seal that get pressed on the pipe = sharkbite that needs a special tool.

Plus the REHAU fitting F2080 which expands the pex then pulls a collar over the barb. No need to wait or be concerned about the shrinking of the collar. Possibly the best fitting in cold weather installations.

There are also pex compression fittings, very common in Europe on panel rads for example.

Leon82

By the time you pay for the shark bites you could probably have used copper for similar price