Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

HELP please on my Lochinvar WHN085

Options
124

Comments

  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
    Options
    You were pumping through a conventional boiler that had almost no pressure drop. Now your boiler and near boiler piping has considerably more pressure drop.

    That, of course is with an assumption of normalcy. I didn't see any pictures of the previous install.
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    Harvey
    things you said is true
    I have pictures of the old boiler piping, but i don't know if it's something that needs to be seen, unless you want me too.
    somewhat similar to mine, but 1 1/4" and all iron pipe, you see mine is all copper, and 1"
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    Harvey, it would be great, if that's all it is in changing a pump
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
    Options
    Well, from over here it looks like you will be doing extensive manual rad balancing or you'll put in the bigger pump.
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    Options
    Most of us have pumps on hand that we would try in a situation like this.

    15-58: 16 GPM at 2
    007: 14.5 GPM at 2

    I seem to have different curves than you do. Here's what I get:

    15-58 007 Series 100
    2' 15.3 20.4 29
    4' 13.7 17 25
    6' 12.2 13 18

    The unknown here is the new system curve.
    Gordy
  • Gordy
    Gordy Member Posts: 9,546
    Options
    I was going to say those curves are the ones I'm familiar with.
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
    Options
    Good theatre if nothing else. Good thing it's not cold out.
    Steve Minnich
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    just got off the phone with Fred, i asked him if he has a pump laying around, the answer was no
  • Gordy
    Gordy Member Posts: 9,546
    edited April 2015
    Options
    The NRF33 will give you 27GPM with 3.5' of head. Your head is probably doulble that. This equates to an EDR of 1151 sf. IIRC that is close to your EDR Mark. Correcta?
    Harvey Ramer
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    Gordy
    Help me out to understand what your asking me.
    Also, why is the upstairs got good heat, and just the back of the house is colder, and the radiator in the entryway is just warm, and that radiator is close to the living room radiator that is very hot
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    the living room radiator is closest to the boiler, next i
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
    edited April 2015
    Options
    deleted
  • Gordy
    Gordy Member Posts: 9,546
    Options
    Yeah I agree I edited my post in that Marks head will be more.. I think its the perfect selection
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    is the direction of my pum proper, I'm not talking about flow, this is correct. I mean how I installed it
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    if you don't mind me asking, what is bull headed tees mean?
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    what I don't understand, the 2nd floor is good heat, even the back of the 2nd floor which is above where i am having some of my problems
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    Options
    Technically, a bullhead tee is a fitting where the branch is a larger diameter than the run.

    In this case, it means the flow of water is into the branch of the tee.
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    what i did, to bring the 2 sides together?
    is this a no no? I repeated what the other pluber did 35 years ago, on the return, the supply, he did not use a tee
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
    Options
    When your flow enters the side port of a tee and exits both end ports or vice versa, you are bull heading it and you get a large pressure drop as the result.
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    the pressure on my tee is coming from both sides, then going to the near boiler pipping
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    should I change this
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    I put the heat on maybe 2 hours ago, to 75
    again the living room is hot, so is the dining room, my bedroom is close, my bathroom is less, and my kitchen back radiator is cold, no heat at all, and the front entryway is a little warm
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
    Options
    It wouldn't hurt.
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    I have a fairly large kitchen/ office in the rear of the house I have 3 radiators in there, 1 is warm, the other 2 are cold, so is the small bathroom, cold
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    both return and supply, should i change
    and how would i do it, bring all 4 pipes to the wall of my boiler?
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
    Options
    That drawing I posted earlier shows you how. It's a PDF
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    why are the rooms on the 2nd floor not having any problems?
    I just went upstairs, 3 radiators are hot, 2 are very warm
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    Harvey, i ended up being able to open it, thanks
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    help me understand how the 2nd floor, which is farthest from the boiler is hot, but directly below it in my kitchen is cold
    a bigger pump will fix that?
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
    Options
    The cooler return water is at a higher elevation then from the first floor. The weight of this water in the returns is drawing the lighter hot water up to the second floor.
    Gordy
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    a thought came to my mind, mayb e i am way off, but, i want to put it out there
    20 years ago, I remodeled my kitchen/office, fred put in 4 radiators 3 in the kitchen, and one in the small bath, he used 3/4" copper for the piping to the radiators, could this cause a problem?
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,239
    Options
    It will certainly contribute to the imbalance unless you have manually balanced them over the years.

    If the house was heating satisfactorily before you changed the boiler, you can make it heat satisfactorily again.
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    actually, the kitchen was too warm, I had to throdel down the radiators in the back
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    but why the 2nd floor no problem now, and underneath, big problem, and entry way, big problem?
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    should i redesign the piping that my old supply and return do not go into a tee, before it gets to the near by radiator piping
    and get rid of the bull head tees
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    I meant to say, the bull head tee going to the near by boiler pipping
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    Hat
    I'm sorry, but I don't understand the numbers you put on the post, can someone help me with that?
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
    Options
    I'm going to guess that the question above may have been directed at me? The forum SW nicely shortens any repeated spaces into one space, thus mis-aligning the table I made.

    First row lists three pumps.
    Next three rows start with feet of head and then show GPM for each of the three pumps.
  • maybemark
    maybemark Member Posts: 1,131
    Options
    ok
    is hat saying anything about what he might think would solve my
    issue?
  • Gordy
    Gordy Member Posts: 9,546
    Options
    Harvey did.