Sears and Roebuck Boiler Questions

Here's a fun look at how to remove one of those, if you decide to replace it:

https://www.sopocottage.com/2019/05/bunny-suits-vs-hercules-who-will-win.html

Thanks, but that's not me, just a Google search result.

I agree with the 30s-40s

You can buy a lot of gas for the cost of the old boiler's removal, a new boiler and its install.

No eye protection, this guy may leave the job with healthy lungs but with only one eye.

Definitely keep the boiler. There’s nothing better than these old original boilers and they are more efficient than people think.

I regularly get the “it’s 40% efficient” incorrect guess on my No. 7 Ideal boiler which is 90 years old. I bought my own combustion analyzer, it’s actually 72-75% efficient and my heating bills back that up. The talent just doesn’t exist like back then with the installation of that boiler. We have seen it here in the group countless times with newer installs. Just crappy install work and of course, people are here because it’s giving issues.

Yes, technically a new cast iron boiler would be slightly more efficient, but honestly, the cost to install, especially if your basement piping is asbestos covered (abatement will be needed) just is NOT going to be made up in the mild savings you will earn. And once again, the fact nothing lasts, you are lucky to make it 10 years with a new boiler. I’ve seen peoples boilers develop a crack in the cast iron section after 5 years. Keep that thing going and maintained.

Here is A Hercules Guide

https://www.icloud.com/iclouddrive/081khJkB19VdQQNj0b07z9kRw

@Erin Holohan Haskell

Feel free to add to the archive if one is not already uploaded. Thanks

@Ananda @TheUpNorthState88 during World War II, when fuel was rationed, this type of boiler was often "baffled" when burning oil or gas. Baffling used bricks or other deflectors properly placed so the hot exhaust gases would contact the cast-iron instead of flowing through the middle of the flueways on the way out. This transferred more heat to the boiler water instead of having it go up the chimney, resulting in lower stack temperature and reduced fuel consumption.

One of the best discussions of this technique appears in the old Audel Oil Burner Guide, by Frank Graham. You can find copies on eBay- here is one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285870190262?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=285870190262&targetid=2450249296795&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9025326&poi=&campaignid=24181853928&mkgroupid=204814195412&rlsatarget=pla-2450249296795&abcId=10813847&merchantid=113269426&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=24181853928&gclid=CjwKCAjwlY3WBhANEiwApsNrLYjD4T8JplApTIuhfswR_NLv1eCR8Dvry7oa84QVXTOTpso7JMAcJBoCR_wQAvD_BwE

Note that this should be done by a pro with a combustion analyzer, to make sure baffling doesn't restrict the draft and cause poor combustion and CO.

After the war, a lot of these baffles were removed, likely by oil or gas suppliers who wanted to sell more fuel.