GVD‑6 damper microswitch issues

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patrykrebisz
patrykrebisz Posts: 152
edited September 25 in THE MAIN WALL

Just installed a new boiler and the damper is giving me issue.

I have it set to Keep Open. After call for heat ends, i hear the motor working even though the damper is set to keep open and thus not rotating. It only stops to make noize when i turn the shaft slightly to the left to engage the microswitch internally. I presume i just have to twist some tab inside so it engages the switch. Am i correct?

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Comments

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Posts: 18,974

    Nope. The motor assembly is bad. Have it replaced under warranty.

    Co-Founder, All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Semi-retired

    Baltimore, MD, USA

    EdTheHeaterMan
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Posts: 12,857

    Under warranty is the best time to get the part changed. If the installer is you, then get the new damper from the boiler manufacturer through your supplier.

    If you are the homeowner, call the contractor. If he is someone who stands behind his work, he should not charge you any labor for that repair as long as it has not been more than a year since the installation was completed.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • patrykrebisz
    patrykrebisz Posts: 152

    How is the motor bad if it opens and closes?

    Just curious before i open it up and look for "answers."

    »»» See my steam heat YouTube videos:
    https://www.youtube.com/@HeatingBlog

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Posts: 4,617

    " i hear the motor working even though the damper is not rotating "

    That sounds like a mechanical issue not a microswitch issue.

    I agree with above, if its under warranty go that route.

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • patrykrebisz
    patrykrebisz Posts: 152

    Ok i fixed the original info i was sharing. The side switch is turned to Keep Open setting. After call for heat ends, it seems the microswitch mechanically disengages and thus the motor tries to work (hear it spinning) but nothing happens. The damper stays open. The motor tries to rotate until i manually push the damper by fraction of a millimeter to re engage the micro switch.

    »»» See my steam heat YouTube videos:
    https://www.youtube.com/@HeatingBlog

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Posts: 7,612

    if that is in Warranty stop messing with it and replace it.
    break something and you’ll loose the warranty.

  • patrykrebisz
    patrykrebisz Posts: 152

    Oh you Americans love your warranties… I take things apart. This is $50 motor. Even if i breaks something i'll learn how it works.

    »»» See my steam heat YouTube videos:
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  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Posts: 18,974
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1904662#Comment_1904662

    Here is the replacement motor unit:

    https://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-70009800-GVD-Vent-Damper-Motor-Assembly-Metal-Base

    You need to be very careful with this. If the boiler fires up with the damper closed, exhaust gases will escape into the boiler room. This could contain carbon monoxide, which can kill you.

    Co-Founder, All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Semi-retired

    Baltimore, MD, USA

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Posts: 17,727

    I would hope any boiler equipped with a damper is also equipped with a spill switch.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Posts: 12,857
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1904656#Comment_1904656

    There are more parts inside that black plastic housing than just the motor. Actually, the motor itself is probably just fine.

    The way that assembly is made, there are no serviceable parts inside that black plastic cover. You can’t get a new shaft to replace a bent shaft or a new microswitch to replace one that is not closing.

    The part that is bad inside that motor housing is not something the vent damper manufacturer wants you to “adjust” or “service.” The manufacturer will, however, usually provide a complete motor assembly with all of the other parts inside it, or perhaps a complete damper assembly, under warranty at no charge.

    Once you "open that up to look for answers", you may void the warranty.

    But it is your toy to play with. do what you want with it.

    Signed: Ed

    with over 40 years experience

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Posts: 3,585

    Let the damper open up and then set the switch…

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Posts: 4,617

    Warranty replacement is better than death.

    If the motor is running it seems to me the damper should be moving too. The Microswitch is not a clutch. Microswitches (if you can find the correct one) can be replaced, however in this situation, I'd go with the warranty replacement.

    Companies should not be rewarded for selling junk that is Broke When Delivered. Oops BWD is an automotive after market auto parts company.

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Posts: 27,906

    If the motor spins and the damper doesn't, that's not the midroswitch. somethings either bent or broken.

    And on this

    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1904662#Comment_1904662

    Son, I do most of my own machinery repair — until they came up with the computers on wheels, which I refuse to buy — and I've been doing it for the last seven decades. And I think you will find that a good many others in my country do, too.

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • patrykrebisz
    patrykrebisz Posts: 152
    edited September 30

    For those interested. There is a basic board inside and the motor attached to a plastic cam with 3 micro switches. The cam rotates the damper and has to activate 2 out of 3 switches to kill power to the motor (and presumably, send power to the boiler).

    The switches are tiny and in dusty environment of any typical basement probably will fail sooner rather than later. On one hand i can appreciate relative simplicity, on the other this is not a well engineered part at all even to eyes of an "amateur" engineer like me. Are there better alternatives short of removing the damper, jumping the connections on the harness and letting the cold air continuously in after the burn ends??

    »»» See my steam heat YouTube videos:
    https://www.youtube.com/@HeatingBlog

    ChrisJ
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Posts: 17,727
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1905058#Comment_1905058

    I'd be curious to see the pictures of the inside.

    How will dust get inside with the cover on the unit other than through the small opening for the slide switch?

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Posts: 4,617

    If it is still under warranty, it is fairly new. I don't see dust being an issue.

    " Just installed a new boiler and the damper is giving me issue. "

    If dust is the actual issue that model will never work in that environment.

    If the motor is turning (or sounds like it is turning) and the damper is not I doubt it is an electrical issue.

    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Posts: 7,744

    @patrykrebisz , I seem to remember a thread here referring to the same issue. Does your new boiler have a control board with diagnostics? I believe in that instance the board threw an error code because it never registered the damper closing because it was in the manual position. It would fire one time and not recycle.

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