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Buderus furnace losing water from overpressure pipe

Options

I was emptying about 4 gallons from a bucket twice a day. Yesterday the expansion tank and relief valves were replaced. Later in the afternoon I had the same leak. After releasing a fair amount of water into a bucket by moving the valve manually, the drip would stop for about 45 minutes or so then resume. The heating company came out again today with the diagnosis that the indirect water heater was causing high pressure and recommended a new indirect tank next to the system.

I wonder if a standalone electric water would be a valid option? I know it would be less efficient, but if oil prices stay as they are now, I was thinking during the warm weather season I could just turn the furnace off? I asked about that a while back before this happened and heard due to the efficiency of the Buderus system that may not be the best option.

I realize the during cold weather the indirect system would be more efficient when the furnace is running. Maybe the best choice overall would be the indirect system. The furnace is 24 years old. I don’t have the knowledge about these systems and respect those that do and appreciate any ideas.

Comments

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Posts: 12,697
    edited 12:32AM

    A stand alone electric water heater is the lowest cost to get you where you need to be. As long as you have a large enough electric service to handle the water heater you need. That is what most plumbers that don't pay your bill would recommend. That plumber has no stake in it so your oil company and the electric company heating your water is no skin off his back.

    EDIT: your oil company or service tech that did the relief valve replacement did not give you the benefit of experience.

    1. I would have done the same thing with the addition of more information
    2. If the relief valve discharged again after this repair you may have a bad water feeder or a water heater that is passing.
    3. The water feeder passing is the less expensive repair but it will not fix the problem if the water heater is passing pressure.
    4. That is why I would have tested those two possibilities on the service call when i replaced the relief valve.

    But # 2, 3, and 4 comes from over 40 years experience

    After 5 years of electric water heating with that low cost replacement, you may wish you spent more time today selecting your replacement water heater.

    In many locations, you can spend over 900.00 per year to heat water with electricity. and your may have only spent under $400.00 with that indirect. That comes to $2500.00 over 5 years. So lets look at the options.

    1. LP Gas or Natural Gas stand alone water heater
    2. Oil fired stand alone water heater
    3. Electric water heater
    4. replace the indirect tank.

    I would take a close look at #4 since many of those indirect water heaters have some pretty good warranties. Some are Lifetime, some are 25 years, others are less. these warranties do not cover the labor to install it. The warranty can reduce the cost quoted for a new one out of warranty.

    I need more info about your leaker? then we can go from there.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Posts: 28,215

    A heat pump water heater is an option

    Check with your energy provider and state tax code, there are some good rebate programs

    www.dsireausa.org for programs

    IMG_3312.jpeg
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Posts: 28,215

    electric water heater calculator

    It comes down to how much hot water you use a day

    https://www.perchenergy.com/energy-calculators/water-heater-electricity-usage-cost

    IMG_3313.png
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream