Weil McLain Gold pressure valve issue (video)
Boiler heats our water. 30 PSI Pressure release on the top back of until opened and stayed in the open position. I shut boiler off, turned off water supply and flipped the valve. Valve continued to dribble after it was flipped. I watched the gauge rise to 30psi and the valve did its job and released a shot of water and valved closed on it own, but still dribbling. This repeated a few times. So the valve is doing it's job. What could be causing the excess psi?
Expansion tank was changed a year ago
Thanks for any insight you might have.
see video:
Comments
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- Fill valve not seating. Valve off fill and see if it happens again.
- If you have a domestic coil, domestic coil leaking. Valve off coil and see if it happens again.
- And/or air in system. After ruling out/fixing 1 or 2, purge air from system.
And while you have the system down, replace the relief valve and install it in the proper orientation.
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The pressure reducing valve seemed a bit hard to pull up on the lever. But maybe I'm over thinking how much force is required. It is original (1996) so at 30 years it may be faulty
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The PRV is from 1995. I don't see a tankless coil. That's a Series 1 WGO. Is there an indirect water heater? You can set cold pressure, then shut off the feed valve and wait a day to see if pressure rises. A relief valve not seating properly needs to be replaced.
If the problem is the PRV, have fun spinning it off. The knucklehead installers piped it so close to the boiler. Maybe Watts makes the same model and you can rebuild it.
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Yes there is an indirect water heater tank. Replacing the PRV looks to be a pain. Perhaps getting a new one and replacing the internals? Can't seem to find a rebuild kit
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Good air is coming out a valve, but you need to test with no pressure on boiler. Since there’s no way to isolate that expansion tank to take pressure off, I think you’ll have to drain down the system before checking psi on the tank.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-40613-3-4-Pro-Pal-Full-Port-Forged-Brass-Ball-Valve-w-Hi-Flow-Hose-Drain-Reversible-Handle?
once you’ve got it drained down, do yourself a favor and add a isolation valve with drain above the tank.edit: once the boiler is drained down that will be an excellent time to replace the PRV
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can you post a picture from feet back? I’d like to see if there’s any isolation valves above the boiler.
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Is there a shut off before the fill valve?
This yellow handle looks to be a bypass around the prv for fast fill/ purge?
If there is another valve before the fill, turn it off, bleed down pressure. Then you can run the system.
Plenty of systems run with the fill valve turned off. All the time.
If pressure continues to rise and the expansion tank is not waterlogged, it may be the indirect leaking into the coil.
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream1 -
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OK so turn yellow valve off, (currently off), bleed down then turn on and watch. I did turn off valves to the water tank, so I will open those. just making sure I understand before trying
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Those pictures are helpful, thanks. Also need pictures of piping above boiler zone valves as well. Looking for insulation valves and the circulator pump.
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Provide pictures of indirect hot water tank and the valves you mentioned above. Try taking picture from a few feet further back.
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I see isolation valves (yellow handle 1/4 turn) on the three zones returns directly above the expansion tank.
I don’t see isolation valves on the supply side other than the zone valves.
Assuming those are normally closed you should be able to close the valves on the return lines and drain down boiler without drain draining rest of the house.What’s your comfort level working on mechanical systems and plumbing?
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No just tested it to see if water was in it and then to pressure check (20 psi).
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