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Need Wireless Thermostats hooked up to a zone valve controller

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Mail4tommo
Mail4tommo Member Posts: 76
edited July 21 in Thermostats and Controls

Hello,

I'm trying to find what set up to use for setting up wireless thermostats (2) to some sort of interface that would hook up to my 2 Taco Zone sentry's. There is no easy way of pulling wire or I would just do that.

I've been looking through the honeywell HZ322 and HZ432 Schematics and I'm a bit confused… The unit is a NTI VM110 and does not have a fan center…

image.png image.png

I called Honeywell the support was a bust…

I called Taco tech support for any recommendations and there was no clear answer.

Any suggestions would be extremely helpful, I have been down this rabbit hole on and off the last few days with no avail.

Thanks in advance

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,646

    Never used these controls and looking at them is giving me a migraine LOL.

    I think you could run a lot of wire for what they cost.

    The Honeywell instructions are for furnaces air conditioners and heat pumps etc not boiler or zone valves.

    You are correct about Honeywell tech support they won't talk to contractors or homeowners only their Honeywell distributors.

    I think the control you're looking at is $$$ and has all kinds of stuff you may not need.

    Take a look at this control. I don't know if they are any good but less $$$ and straightforward to hook up.

    Braeburn-8500-BRAEBURN-Submittal-Sheet.pdf

    Others will post with other opinions

    Mail4tommo
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 17,673

    the honeywell is labeled for force air, you need to translate from zone damper to zone valve.

    the fan center is t-t or x-x on your boiler, you only need w and r, g and y are for ac.

    you could also drive the heat call at the boiler off of the paralleled end switches instead of off of the wireless t-stat receiver/zone controller.

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 7,568

    Honeywell/Resideo is making a lot of changes with the RedLink line.

    A wireless thermostat was TH5320R1002 with the THM5320R1000 EIM. I don't know if its still offered. A 24 vac transformer should already be there to power the zone valves. I don't know what the va rating is on the interfaces, but I would check first.

  • Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
    Alan (California Radiant) Forbes Member Posts: 4,820
    edited 1:03AM

    Use one of these kits per zone:

    https://tinyurl.com/2awxhkjd

    Wire 24 volts (available on the control) to "C" and "R", "Rh" and "W" to T-T on the pump or zone valve control.

    I don't have any experience with the Braeburn thermostat which communicates using a 433 MHz radio frequency while Honeywell uses a 900 MHz signal. I've used many of the Honeywell ones and they have been very stable, especially in large homes with plaster walls.

    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 4,247
    edited 1:31AM

    Using the RedLINK Wireless FocusPro Programmable Thermostat Kit, YTH6320R1001 with the THM5320R EIM

    image.png image.png image.png image.png image.png
    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 12,583
    edited 2:44AM

    Can you tell me which wireless thermostat you already have? You showed a RedLINK wireless thermostat in your original post. Is that the thermostat you currently have?

    Can you take a picture of the thermostat and the subbase attached to the wall? Is there a model number on the thermostat?

    You also referenced Honeywell HZ322 and HZ432 schematics in your original post. Which components do you already have? Do you have the actual zone panel, the thermostat interface, and the thermostats? As I understand it, you need all three components for each wireless thermostat.

    • Two thermostats, one for each zone
    • Two wireless interface controls, one for each zone Correction:
    • One wireless interface for the system
    • One zone control panel for the system.

    Here is how you will set it up:

    The THM4000R itself does not decide which thermostat controls which zone valve. The HZ322 assigns each wireless thermostat to Zone 1, Zone 2, or Zone 3 during enrollment.

    Here is the sequence:

    1. Wire the THM4000R to the HZ322’s A-B-C-D terminals.
    2. Enter the HZ322 Configuration menu.
    3. Set RF Enabled = Yes.
    4. For each zone that will use a wireless thermostat, set:
      • Zone 1 TSTAT Type = RF
      • Zone 2 TSTAT Type = RF
      • Zone 3 TSTAT Type = RF, as applicable.
    5. Save the configuration.
    6. Press the HZ322 Mode button until the Wireless LED is lit.
    7. Press Next to begin adding devices.
    8. When the display alternates between Press Connect and Exit, place the thermostat into its RedLINK connection mode or press its Connect button, depending on the thermostat model.

    The important part is the order in which you enroll them:

    • The first thermostat enrolled for the first RF zone becomes Zone 1.
    • The next thermostat becomes Zone 2.
    • The third becomes Zone 3.

    The HZ322 then associates that thermostat’s calls with the zone valve wired to the matching damper terminals:

    • Zone 1 thermostat → Zone 1 valve terminals
    • Zone 2 thermostat → Zone 2 valve terminals
    • Zone 3 thermostat → Zone 3 valve terminals

    After enrollment, use the HZ322 Checkout mode. The panel lets you test each zone valve individually and then view the thermostat inputs for Zone 1, Zone 2, and Zone 3. That is the best way to confirm that each thermostat is operating the intended valve

    I would label each thermostat before enrolling it—Zone 1, Zone 2, Zone 3—and connect them one at a time. Do not place all thermostats in connection mode simultaneously, because that can make it difficult to know which one was assigned to which zone.


    Diagram to follow

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 12,583
    edited 3:35AM

    I have worked with the HZ322 panels before, however I have never worked with the wireless thermostats, so this may not be accurate. This is the best guess for your situation if in fact you have the following components

    1. Two RedLink thermostats
    2. One HZ322 Panel
    3. One wireless interface THM4000R
    4. NTI Boiler
    image.png
    • Upper Left is the HZ322 panel. (over-kill but workable)
    • Upper Right. Taco Zone Sentry Valves. End switch to the NTI boiler
    • Lower Right. NTI boiler. The end switch of the zone valve will connect to 7 & 8 on the boiler control panel
    • Lower Left. Add the wireless thermostats per the instructions

    If this does not work for you then we can look at other options. But I believe this is a good start based on what you have on hand.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 4,247

    Similar to @EdTheHeaterMan solution. IMO Honeywell documentation can be a bit pathetic.

    image.png
    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System

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